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  #16  
Old 02-14-2017, 02:27 PM
Truckjohn Truckjohn is offline
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Very nice.
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  #17  
Old 02-15-2017, 07:32 AM
redir redir is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otterhound View Post
Looks like Fir to me .
I have 6 or 7 bookmatched 1/4 sawn Norway Spruce blanks sitting here waiting to be rough cut to shape .
I have one completed build here with a 1/4 sawn walnut neck and 1/4 sawn mulberry fretboard .
I harvested all of this wood .
Sadly , photobucket is misbehaving for me right now or you would be seeing pics .
Oh well .
Photobucket can't beat an idiot like me .

I almost always have a problem with Photobucket. Drives me nuts. I just give up on it.
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  #18  
Old 03-06-2017, 10:01 PM
printer2 printer2 is offline
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Photobucket really annoys me especially since my other computer blew up and I am using a slow one. Between PB and my antivirus software it is hard to get anything done.

The neck for my pine Tele is carved, still want to glue on a headplate. Have not decided what yet though. Need to get something for side fret markers. Never realized I did not have any black. Also making a lightweight combo of sorts. To be technical it really a speaker cabinet and head although the head could easily slip into a guitar bag. It will be powered by a laptop power supply, have a switchable 5F6A Bassman / 5D3 Deluxe preamp, and a switching amplifier for power. The cab is built with the lightest pine board I could find and comes in at 10 lbs. With a 5 lb Yamaha speaker it will be easy to travel with.

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  #19  
Old 03-19-2017, 09:23 PM
printer2 printer2 is offline
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Neck is all semi-glossed and sort of shinny (or was it satin). Need to drill the tuner holes, fret and set up. So what do I do?

Start a new project. It is too dry in my house right now to work on the acoustic guitars I am building, part of the reason for doing the Tele. Aww what the heck, let's make a little one. Inspired by the Martin size-5 Terz guitar, decided to make one roughly the same size. Going to be a nylon guitar. Some wood to use.



Resawed the CLR/SELECT. Got to love the 3-4 grain lines per inch.



I figured I only would get three pieces out of the 3/4" board. So I cut three pieces as a front and half a back, and a lengthier two sides and a third to use as the other side of the back. Won't be book matched but not a concern. Also had to make a mold to bend the wood. I cut up a 2x6 and shaped them and screwed them together. My cheap and dirty side bender. Got to say that this was the first time I used SuperSoft II to bend the wood. Did some softwood sides befor and they have a tendency to crease the inside fibers at the waist. Just a nice smooth bend with the SS.



And here is where I am right now. Bent sides, 2x3 cut in half and glued up to make the neck. The top and backs joined and braced. I did have to add little wings on the lower bout, the board was 1/2" narrower than I needed. So why did I not just use a bigger one since I have more? I wanted to use the wide grained wood and if not for this what would I use it for?



The piece for the neck turned out shorter than I thought it was. I still might get away with using it, if not I'll have to find another to use. Maybe a 2x4.
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  #20  
Old 04-05-2017, 09:18 PM
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Just some pictures from my tablet.



Maple binding.



Binding is not perfect in a couple of places.



Want to try a dovetail for this build. Could not find the plate for the bottom of the router, it will show up yet.



Not too bad, need to make a template for the body next.

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  #21  
Old 04-06-2017, 06:10 AM
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Kitchen Guitars Kitchen Guitars is offline
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Really nice work!
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  #22  
Old 04-06-2017, 07:35 AM
redir redir is offline
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Nice dovetail jig you made there.
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  #23  
Old 04-06-2017, 05:50 PM
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Took my inspiration from Bruce's (Sexauer) photo documentation. I was considering making a jig for doing the neck joints but the simplicity of his method is too hard to ignore. Bruce's jigs.






I have a few more choice hardware store boards to sculpt into guitar shaped objects. I find it fun building with it as other than my time there is not much cost involved. I can also justify giving them away or sell them for enough to cover the costs to people I feel would appreciate them. If they do not last forever at least they could be hung up on a wall some day.
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  #24  
Old 04-09-2017, 08:04 PM
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I have been doing a lot of trial and error getting the feel of the dovetail joint. I finally got up the nerve to try it on the body.



Simple jig clamped on the top, I checked the center of the top, not necessarily where the sides join. Used the square to determine the outside positions of the upper bout and used the caliper to adjust the jig till it was centered.



As I was cutting the joint I noticed the guide bushing move a little. Crappy router but the only one that I have a insert to use the guide bushings. A bit of a rough spot on the left hand side but otherwise worked out ok. Notice how wide the grain is, on the opposite end of the scale from another board I have.



About 22 grain lines per inch on the wide end to 34 on the left.Another Home Depot buy. It'll make some nice 00 sized tops one day. Oh yeah, got my computer to recognize my camera so picture quality is a little better.
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  #25  
Old 04-28-2017, 06:40 AM
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I know I am going to get a bad reputation for not finishing projects, but... ...I'll get back to them. I promise, really. It is just that I saw some people having a contest and I thought it seemed like an interesting idea. It is from a cigar box guitar forum and the requirement is to use a paint can lid as a resonator. I do have a few cigar boxes downstairs but that would be too, expected. I did have the idea of making it out of door skins of a mahogany door but that will have to wait for another day. I decided to use a set of sides I had bent up and joined that I did not plan on using any more. It was a rather wide and squat body shape, I have moved on to more normal dimensions. But if I take the set back to my bender and reshaped them they should do. Oh yeah, the time limit on the contest is the end of the month (a month long contest) and I am starting two weeks late. Oh I hope everything goes right.

So first, the raw materials. Neck wood is sugar pine I pulled off a pallet.



Paint can lid seems to fit. Baltic Birch for the top and back.



Routered out a soundwell for the lid out of some plywood, no shortage of clamps.



Decided to cut the neck slot by not using a router to show you can get away without one.







Seemed to fit well enough. Braced it and a back to go with it.

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  #26  
Old 04-28-2017, 05:19 PM
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The F-holes were fun. Took about half the time to do the second than the first. Added a pickup between the F holes. Found a piece of walnut for the fretboard.



Spent quite a while getting the neck joint to the body right. The sugar pine has wide soft and hard grain lines and you end up removing too much of the soft when you want to get rid of some of the hard wood. Also in the picture is a piece of aluminum that I want to make a resonator cover out of.



I had the idea to hammer form the resonator cover out of the aluminum. Seemed like a good idea, would have been easier with thinner aluminum. Had a piece of fir plywood that I carved the dome shape out of, used a hand plane and worked up a sweat. That was premium old growth fir ply. It was easy enough figuring out if I needed to take off more from one side or the other. Just make nice little circles, sand it smooth.



Doesn't look much like it but there is a dome there. Next file and sand it smooth. Need to figure out some type of hole pattern to let the sound out.

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  #27  
Old 04-29-2017, 06:12 AM
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I am just catching up on posting although the pace is crazy. Not much time for reflection and determining if my next action will work or not. Speaking of.
I had the painters give me some raw tint to put int paint, was suppose to be good for water based and oil paint. It didn't seem to like the wipe on poly and instead of mixing stayed as mini globules as I mixed it. I went with it anyway , first doing a yellow coat and then when dry doing an halo orange coat. I could see it wasn't going to work, was not sure how I was going to get my sunburst. I stripped the paint off and started over. Instead of mixing the tint with poly I added water to the tint and applied it to the guitar. When dry I wiped on a layer of poly, did the same thing for the orange and black coats. I sure hope this was going to work as it is Thursday and I have till Saturday afternoon to get the guitar finished. I asked my brother to take pictures of it then.







While paint dried I continued on with the cover plate. I should have used a smaller drill bit to drill out the numbers, live and learn. Definitly a hand made look, need to figure out what paint to use on it also. Gluing the 'handle' of the cover. Using flamed maple for it also.



That is all for now, a bucket full of work to do this morning.
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  #28  
Old 04-30-2017, 07:27 AM
printer2 printer2 is offline
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I left everybody with an unsightly mess on the guitar. But there was a method to my madness.



Here are some of the last bits and pieces, the bridge and the tailpiece.



Ran out of time so the bridge is not set up for intonation, I'll need to play with it a while. The frets have to be done and the pickup is not connected to anything. I have some ideas how I want to do the volume and tone control, the output jack I still am debating on.







And I am taking a break for the next few days. This was a lot of work in a short period of time where I ignored everything else. Going to do some dishes, laundry, dust, normal stuff.
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  #29  
Old 05-15-2017, 08:14 PM
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Just want to post one more picture.

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  #30  
Old 05-16-2017, 10:30 AM
Truckjohn Truckjohn is offline
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Thats a sweet looking little tenor resonator...

How long did it take you soup to nuts (calendar wise?)
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