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  #16  
Old 11-09-2017, 04:43 PM
chitz chitz is offline
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Originally Posted by ParisStarlight View Post
Piezo-cake? I’m sorry. I had to!
Wish I'd thought of it.
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  #17  
Old 11-10-2017, 02:09 PM
ParisStarlight ParisStarlight is offline
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Install today. I will admit, if I need another one I will probably pay somebody, but I’m thankful I did one. Drilling it up from the 1-4” to 1//2” I have a few marks around the jack hole. Nothing that made me cry, but I know.

Installing the three transducers was by far the easiest part. Took my time and did them one by one with the supplied jig and it was a breeze. I did put plastic wrap over the top, but thankfully didn’t spill any glue. I used a liberal amount as everywhere seems to recommend it.


Installing the jack was tricky to me. I got it the right length, but tightening it was pretty challenging as it’s near impossible to fit a wrench around the nut on the inside. I did get it right, but I’m not 100% confident it won’t wiggle down the toad. On a day where I have more patience I’ll get to it, it’s quite snug for now. Of course at that point my son woke up from his nap, so stringing it to test it will have to wait till tonight....it’s killing me!
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  #18  
Old 11-13-2017, 01:43 PM
cheetah236 cheetah236 is offline
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You can stick an awl through the two holes drilled through the threaded portion of the shaft that sticks out of the guitar and hold it from turning while you tighten the nut from the outside.
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  #19  
Old 11-13-2017, 02:35 PM
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I understand. I've done them but I hate doing it.

If you look at the threaded area of the end pin jack you will see a hole. You can do this from the outside. Put a small screw driver into the hole to keep the threaded end pin jack from turning and then you can easily tighten the end pin nut.
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  #20  
Old 11-13-2017, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ParisStarlight View Post
Install today. I will admit, if I need another one I will probably pay somebody, but I’m thankful I did one. Drilling it up from the 1-4” to 1//2” I have a few marks around the jack hole. Nothing that made me cry, but I know.
Did you put tape over the hole before you drilled it?

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  #21  
Old 11-13-2017, 03:05 PM
ParisStarlight ParisStarlight is offline
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That is a good trick! I noticed the halls but did not think of using something like an Allen wrench to stick through it. I know I have plenty of small ones that I could use for that. I will tighten it trying that tonight!

I did tape over the whole before I drilled, I don’t know if taking smaller steps between bits would’ve helped or if it was just how I did it. It actually shipped a little when I was trying to do it by hand even though the bid was Square in the hall.
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  #22  
Old 11-14-2017, 01:00 AM
Amar911 Amar911 is offline
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When drilling the endpin hole, a sharp new bradpoint 1/4" drill bit is a good way to go. Use blue painters masking tape and perhaps use a drill guide to get the hole straight if you feel the need. Then use a step drill bit (I prefer the Irwin model) to expand the hole to just below 15/32" (if you have a StewMac reamer to finish the job) or to exactly 15/32" (if you don't have a StewMac reamer). Don't use a cheap reamer if you want a clean hole. If you don't use a StewMac reamer (they aren't cheap), then get the hole cut to exactly 15/32" with the step bit and stop. You can use a piece of blue tape around the step bit to mark the point where the cutting diameter is 15/32" so you stop at that point. If you cut all the way through with a 1/2" final diameter step bit, then the hole will be slightly oversize (it will work but will have some slop). Get a sharp standard 15/32" twisted drill bit and finish drilling the hole that is 15/32" at the outside from using the step bit. The purpose of the standard 15/32" bit is to make the existing hole parallel from the outside completely through the endblock at the end of the guitar. Doing the drilling as described will virtually eliminate any chipping of the exterior wood, and the hole will look like it was drilled at the factory. Of course, the ideal would be to use the StewMac reamer to expand the hole from about 3/8" to 15/32". The reamer leaves a smoother hole than any drill bit.

I like using the various drill bits to get close and then using my StewMac reamer. The step bit is fantastic if you don't want to invest the $70 or so on a good reamer. The cheap reamers are awful and are almost guaranteed to mess up your guitar. If you visit Amazon and search for the "Irwin Industrial Tools 10231CB Unibit 1/32-Inch 13-Steps Cobalt Step Drill Bit", you will find an inexpensive cobalt step drill bit (about $26) that will do a great job with almost no danger of damage to the guitar. I wrote a review there a long time ago that went into more detail than I have written here. With the right tools, drilling out a hole for an endpin jack is easy and safe for the guitar. Use a flexible smaller diameter hose taped to the larger fittings of a shop vacuum to clean out the sawdust from the inside of the guitar after drilling.

A gel superglue works best for the K&K. I also use the JJBs that are about half the cost. They are about the same, but the JJBs don't have a mounting jig. Some guitars need a different jig than the one supplied with the K&K. Cardboard is readily available and works well enough. There are all sorts of little tricks that you will learn when repeatedly installing the pickups, but the installation is not difficult if you are fairly handy. The first few installations take some time, but go slowly and get it right. Latex or urethane gloves will save skin with the superglue. Just make sure the gloves are tight so you can feel what you're doing. FretTech has my favorite pictorial instruction. Rob is a traditional bow and arrow buddy of mine and knows his stuff around guitars. He shows how to make and use a cardboard mounting jig. Don't forget to cover the guitar surfaces, because superglue will ruin the finish and you will be upset. Of course, a good guitar tech will have installed dozens of these pickups and will normally do a great job. I just like knowing things were done right because I did them myself and knowing how to change things if I need to later.

Good luck.

Allan
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  #23  
Old 11-15-2017, 09:19 PM
Randyd Randyd is offline
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Thanks for the advice Allan! I’m going to be installing my own K&K on my Santa Cruz within a week or so, so I’ve been following this thread myself... I’m pretty handy, but haven’t done this before, always great to hear from someone who has! I’ll be sure to go slow and will practice drilling the hole on another piece of wood first.

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  #24  
Old 11-15-2017, 09:45 PM
ParisStarlight ParisStarlight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randyd View Post
Thanks for the advice Allan! I’m going to be installing my own K&K on my Santa Cruz within a week or so, so I’ve been following this thread myself... I’m pretty handy, but haven’t done this before, always great to hear from someone who has! I’ll be sure to go slow and will practice drilling the hole on another piece of wood first.

RandyD


I wish you luck! The pickups and gluing are definitely easier than I made it out to be in my head. The hole wasn’t bad until I got past the 1/4” inch bit, so be extra cautious at that point. I will say, it sounds beautiful plugged in to GarageBand now. Let us know how it goes.
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  #25  
Old 11-16-2017, 06:18 PM
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I’ll certainly let folks know how it goes... still need to get the reamer that Allan recommended, it’s been ordered. One question I have already... the end strap pin is glued in. What’s the best way to remove it without causing damage? I could saw it off away from the body with a dremel and then drill it out. Other ideas?

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  #26  
Old 11-16-2017, 07:55 PM
ParisStarlight ParisStarlight is offline
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Originally Posted by Randyd View Post
I’ll certainly let folks know how it goes... still need to get the reamer that Allan recommended, it’s been ordered. One question I have already... the end strap pin is glued in. What’s the best way to remove it without causing damage? I could saw it off away from the body with a dremel and then drill it out. Other ideas?

RandyD


I went the route of drilling it out. I covered the body around the end pin out of caution in case the bit bumped it (it never did thankfully). I just started with the smallest bit I own and slowly stepped up. I did, as you mentioned, remove the ball end first by cutting it off. It took a few drill bits, but came out quite easy.
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  #27  
Old 11-16-2017, 11:05 PM
Amar911 Amar911 is offline
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Here is the review of the Irwin Unibit I posted on Amazon a couple of years ago. See the portion I have shown in red that deals with a glued-in endpin:

I bought this bit as part of my tool kit to drill endpin jack holes in expensive guitars to mount the endpin jacks for internal pickups. Any drill bit will make a hole, but I wanted to make sure the wood on the guitars would be in perfect condition after the hole was drilled. Causing serious damage to a $5,000 guitar can ruin a guy's day, especially if he's the owner of the guitar. Typically, if no prior hole exists, a new 1/4" hole is drilled with a sharp brad point drill bit, followed by a precision tapered reamer from a guitar luthier supply house. However, sometimes a smaller hole already exists where a strap button was screwed in or a tapered end pin was press fit into a tapered hole. Perhaps the tapered endpin was even glued into the tapered hole and can't be removed without drilling. If a strap button had been screwed in, then the screw hole could be filled and a new hole could be drilled as if none had ever existed, followed by the precision reamer to safely bring the hole to its final dimension. On the other hand, this Irwin Unibit could be used to drill a tapered hole, using the strap button screw hole as a pilot hole, followed by the precision reamer to bring the hole to its final dimension. I have used the Unibit for this exact purpose, and it worked beautifully, with no damage to the guitar. If a tapered wooden strap button has been glued in, the button can be carefully sawed off near its base, and the hole can be drilled with a brad point bit and then reamed, just like the situation where no hole ever existed. But no sawing is needed if a punch is used in the center of the wooden end pin, a 1/8" pilot hole is drilled with a normal twist metal bit or a brad point bit, and then the Unibit is used to drill through the strap button and into the guitar. Eventually, as the Unibit goes deeper, a tapered hole is formed that is larger than the strap button, and the button is drilled completely away, leaving only a nicely tapered hole for the precision reamer to follow and finish to final dimension.

The Unibit can be used after drilling a pilot hole, without using the precision reamer. If that is done, it is best to stop drilling with the Unibit when it reaches the 15/32" step and then finish the hole with a standard 15/32" metal twist bit that will tend to self-center. Or, the Unibit can be used to fully penetrate the guitar base and end block, leaving a 1/2" hole that is slightly oversized for most endpin jacks, but completely usable. Alternatively, buy the 12mm Unibit, which is 15/32", and the hole will be exactly the right size. The precision reamer from the well-known guitar luthier supply house is strongly recommended, but even just the Unibit will safely do a good job. Do put blue painter's tape where the hole will be drilled to help protect the wood from damage. DON'T use the cheap tapered hand reamers, including the one from Irwin -- they do not make good, concentric holes in wood. I've tried -- and failed miserably. The cobalt Unibit is not necessary. The standard (less expensive) tool steel works well, just not as long as the cobalt. For $10 more, the cobalt seems to be the better deal if it is used often.

This is a must have tool in a guitar workshop.

Last edited by Amar911; 11-17-2017 at 12:36 AM.
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  #28  
Old 11-21-2017, 07:50 PM
Randyd Randyd is offline
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Just finished the installation and tried it out, wonderful sound! Drilling out the endpin turned out to be the trickiest part, but the reamer bit worked very well after using a 1/8” brad point bit to make a pilot hole. The rest went fairly smoothly, just a little tricky - took my time and wore latex gloves (important). And protected the guitar with tape and towels (more important!)

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  #29  
Old 11-26-2017, 01:12 AM
Amar911 Amar911 is offline
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Glad everything worked out well for you, Randy. You can certainly start with the reamer in a 1/8" hole, but I prefer not to remove that much wood with the reamer, which is why I use the step bit or go to a 1/4" brad point bit. What you did was simpler and worked well for you. I doubt you ever have to send off that reamer for sharpening since you probably won't use it on that many guitars. Congratulations on a good first installation. A guitar like that Santa Cruz is not the one you probably wanted to learn on. The next one will be much easier for you.
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  #30  
Old 11-29-2017, 02:28 PM
JLS JLS is offline
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I get much better coupling with a medium superglue, rather than the gel. I wet a bit of paper towel with accelerator, and rub it on the bridgeplate, and let it flash off.
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