#1
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Nut sizes: pros and cons
I have read with interest several discussions of nut sizes here. As a beginner, I wonder about the pros and cons of different sizes. Is it strictly a comfort issue? I know that on an A chord, for example, it can be difficult to squeeze three fingers on adjacent strings on the same fret, and my fingers are fairly slender. Are nut sizes measured from E to e? What are the standard choices, and how much difference do they make?
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Regards, Jim Larrivée L-05 Mahogany Gibson Les Paul Traditional Fender Stratocaster Epiphone Les Paul Standard |
#2
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Nut sizes are measured edge to edge of the nut at the fingerboard end (many nuts taper wider toward the headstock). The E to e measurement would be string spacing.
There is no inherent advantage or disadvantage across the board. It is strictly a comfort factor for the player using the guitar. My advice is to go to a guitar shop and see if you can find some with wider spacing and see how they play. You might be surprised.
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Paul Woolson |
#3
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Kyle,
It's always about comfort. However, getting the nut wide enough to make an easy A chord is not always going to be the most comfortable on your hand after 20 minutes of playing. Standard nut widths are measured from the leading (fretboard side) edge of the nut from one end of the nut to the other. Many factory models come in 1 11/16" to 1 3/4". Electrics are usually thinner, acoustics wider - with classicals being the widest (except for some 12 strings). Many variables go into the comfort of playing - nut width, string spacing, scale length, shape of the neck, plus others. The best advice is to play as many different guitars as you can and see what feels best to you. You'll probably find that the nut widths are in a similar range, and that will give you something to go on in the future. |
#4
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Paul you got me. Teach me to type slowly on a phone.
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#5
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I find the differences in saddle spacing to have a far greater impact on my comfort than the nut width. My question has long been why the width at the nut always seems to dictate the width at the saddle. I, in fact, prefer a wider nut. I have an electric with a 1 3/4" nut that has a Floyd Rose Pro vibrato (2" even). It feels great and is the fastest (for flatpicking) setup I have. I really don't like saddle spacing to exceed 2 1/8" on an acoustic guitar for cross picking purposes. At higher tempos, that little extra space feels like a chasm.
Obviously, I'm in the minority as no one produces an instrument with a wide nut and narrow saddle. Wayne |
#6
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Yeah, ive become a dedicated convert to 1 3/4 nut width so much that i sent my Furch OM ack to the factory to have the rosewood 1 11/16 nut neck 'replaced' with a 1 3/4 ebony neck. Super happy with it.
Yes, its all about the comfort for me.
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The Big Fat Lady 02' Gibson J-150 The Squares 11' Hummingbird TV, 08' Dove The Slopeys 11' Gibson SJ (Aaron Lewis) The Pickers 43' Gibson LG-2, 09' Furch OM 32SM (custom) , 02' Martin J-40 The Beater 99' Cort Earth 100 What we do on weekends: http://www.reverbnation.com/doubleshotprague |
#7
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Also;
Don't forget to factor in various neck profiles/ shapes.
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........Alan........ (Surreal McCoy) Last edited by Alan Porton; 02-24-2011 at 10:36 AM. |
#8
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Quote:
I have been playing this particular chord for the last 30 years by fretting the third and fourth strings with my middle finger and the second string with my third finger. I play Am in a similar way: third and fourth strings with my middle finger and second string with my first finger. For me, this has the major advantage of not damping adjacent strings by trying to jam too many fingers into a too-small space If all the stopped notes in the chord can be fretted cleanly and the chord rings properly with good sustain then that is a perfectly valid technique, no matter what Classical guitar teachers and other 'technique Nazis' say. The same sort of 'purists' are simply horrified by the practice of playing the low note in a barre chord with the thumb. Try running that proposition past anyone who plays blues or funk guitar Just one example out of thousands: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkuDG...eature=related
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Everybody knows Something - Nobody knows Everything https://www.martinshenandoahguitars.info/ |
#9
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Quote:
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08 Larrivee L05-12 02 Larrivee DV-09 73 Granada Custom Kids got the others http://www.soundclick.com/bands/defa...?bandID=797065 |
#10
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Standard nut sizes
Here are the ones I seen made, in increasing order:
1 11/16 1 23/32 1 3/4 1 25/32 1 13/16 1 7/8 I like 1 23/32 on a Dread or anything for flatpicking/strumming. For fingerstyle, I like 1 3/4. But, that can change depending on the shape of the neck. |
#11
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Jim, as others have stated above, it's really about what's comfortable for you. Everybody is different.
I play the first position A chord with one finger also. Chris. |
#12
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I do not like a 1 11/16" nut width and never have. I'm okay with either a 1 3/4" or 1 23/32" nut width. It seems that wider necks have been gaining popularity in recent years for whatever reason. Get what works best for you!
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#13
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1 7/8 - real man's nut!
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Sakazo Nakade Flamenco 1964 Bourgeois D Adi Tasmanian Blackwood 2011 Tom Anderson Strat 1990s Schecter California Classic Strat 1990s |
#14
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Lighter gauge strings and lower profile necks are more important than nut width for many beginners to grab chords. Try multiple guitars and don't even look at the nut width. It is kind of like looking at the tire width of a car or the wheel base. Sure in some circumstances it can make a difference but if it rides and handles like you want what is the difference?
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Martin M-38 Custom Spruce/EIR Classical |
#15
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the blueridge i'm picking up this weekend has a 1 7/8" nut... but i'm not a real man
btw, to the op - i have small hands and fingers, but am much more comfortable playing a guitar with 1 3/4" or a bit wider. my fretting hand feels cramped. also having that little bit of extra space means your nails or fingertips of your plucking hand fit a little better between the strings. |