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  #1  
Old 04-20-2017, 10:27 AM
Luria Luria is offline
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Default WTB...Looking for a Brook....Taw, OM, or Tamar

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Looking for a good clean Brook guitar.
Custom or not.

1 3/4 nut.

12 frt or 14 fret

- Taw

- OM

- Tamar



PM me here or send me an Email if you have one you might like to sell.

fastguitars@gmail.com



thx
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Brook Taw - Rosewood - Cedar

Taylor 912e - Rosewood - Sitka .

Breedlove C25 - Masterclass Flamed Myrtlewood-Sitka

Santa Cruz Custom 12-Fret-D - Master Grade Bearclaw Italian - Flamed Mahogany

Bourgeois SJ - Maple-European SS

Taylor K12-L7 Koa - Englemann

Tahoo OOO Sitka - Curly Maple
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  #2  
Old 04-20-2017, 02:51 PM
pg60 pg60 is offline
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email sent on a Brook Taw
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  #3  
Old 04-20-2017, 06:34 PM
Luria Luria is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pg60 View Post
email sent on a Brook Taw

Received.

waiting for photos..


thank you.<
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Brook Taw - Rosewood - Cedar

Taylor 912e - Rosewood - Sitka .

Breedlove C25 - Masterclass Flamed Myrtlewood-Sitka

Santa Cruz Custom 12-Fret-D - Master Grade Bearclaw Italian - Flamed Mahogany

Bourgeois SJ - Maple-European SS

Taylor K12-L7 Koa - Englemann

Tahoo OOO Sitka - Curly Maple
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  #4  
Old 04-20-2017, 07:34 PM
Stevien Stevien is offline
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I was on the lookout for one of these once also. Brook builds generally with narrower nut & string spacing than American builders do. Most likely you'll have to find a custom build to get a 1 3/4" nut.
Steve
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  #5  
Old 04-20-2017, 07:42 PM
hesson11 hesson11 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevien View Post
I was on the lookout for one of these once also. Brook builds generally with narrower nut & string spacing than American builders do. Most likely you'll have to find a custom build to get a 1 3/4" nut.
Steve
I'm not sure that's accurate, Steve. Nearly all stock models are listed on the Brook site as 44mm (which is less then a millimeter under 1-3/4) or 45mm. My stock Torridge measures exactly 1-3/4. String spacing is, for all intents and purposes, the same as any other 1-3/4 nut guitar I've ever had.
-Bob

Last edited by hesson11; 04-20-2017 at 07:50 PM.
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  #6  
Old 04-20-2017, 08:51 PM
Stevien Stevien is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hesson11 View Post
I'm not sure that's accurate, Steve. Nearly all stock models are listed on the Brook site as 44mm (which is less then a millimeter under 1-3/4) or 45mm. My stock Torridge measures exactly 1-3/4. String spacing is, for all intents and purposes, the same as any other 1-3/4 nut guitar I've ever had.
-Bob
..... As I said, 44mm is not 45mm. It may not matter to you, but it matters greatly to a lot of us. Some of us need the extra space. Seeing as how she wants 1 3/4", I was just making note that their standard is less. And string spacing at the saddle is closer to 2 1/8". If your Torridge is 1 3/4" at the nut, then it is not stock; it was ordered that way.
Steve
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  #7  
Old 04-20-2017, 10:45 PM
hesson11 hesson11 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevien View Post
..... As I said, 44mm is not 45mm. It may not matter to you, but it matters greatly to a lot of us. Some of us need the extra space. Seeing as how she wants 1 3/4", I was just making note that their standard is less. And string spacing at the saddle is closer to 2 1/8". If your Torridge is 1 3/4" at the nut, then it is not stock; it was ordered that way.
Steve
You're right, Steve. I was a bit off base, and I apologize.

The stock Taw, OM and Tamar all are specified on the Brook site as having a nut width of 44mm, which is 1.732 inches. And 1.732 is not 1.75. Those who absolutely require the extra .018 inch (less than one-half of one millimeter) will probably not find a stock Brook acceptable. Perhaps that includes Luria, or perhaps that's close enough. It is for me, and I'm more accustomed to 52mm nut widths. (For reference, 45mm equals 1.77 inches.)

I apologize that in measuring my Torridge, I could not discern that same 18 one-thousandths of an inch. Thank you very much!
-Bob
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:48 AM
wezzywest wezzywest is offline
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The main problem for me with the stock Brook guitars, is the string spacing at the bridge, usually 55mm. I went custom, got 2 5/16ths or 59mm at the bridge, 46mm nut and 12 frets. Great guitars and service.
I believe `Shoreline` are stockists of Brook guitars. Good luck.
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  #9  
Old 04-21-2017, 07:55 AM
Luria Luria is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hesson11 View Post
You're right, Steve. I was a bit off base, and I apologize.

The stock Taw, OM and Tamar all are specified on the Brook site as having a nut width of 44mm, which is 1.732 inches. And 1.732 is not 1.75. Those who absolutely require the extra .018 inch (less than one-half of one millimeter) will probably not find a stock Brook acceptable. Perhaps that includes Luria, or perhaps that's close enough. It is for me, and I'm more accustomed to 52mm nut widths. (For reference, 45mm equals 1.77 inches.)

I apologize that in measuring my Torridge, I could not discern that same 18 one-thousandths of an inch. Thank you very much!
-Bob

For me, that 44mm nut width, is just not enough.
And in the case of a Brook, where the depth of the neck is quite slender, then its sort of a 2x the issue.
Perhaps if they built their necks much deeper, then this could compensate for that shorter nut width.
(Dream on......)
So yep, that 44mm nut width is why i dont own a closet full of Gibson Acoustics.
And while im at it....why is it that all imported guitars...Asian...Taks, Yairis, English Luthiers, ....they generally all refuse to create a stock instrument, that has a 1 3/4 nut.
All of them want to give you the 1 11/16th or some of them the 44mm, like Yamaha or Brook, and 2 of them....Yairi and Tak, will give you the 45mm, while skipping happily right over the 1 3/4 or 44.50.
WHY ~???????
1 3/4.....good luck., tho i think Tak did a "Nashville" series about 100 years ago that came stock with a 1.75 nut.
It is a mystery to me why asian and euro builders do not understand that the people who spend the big money on handmade guitars, are a lost market to them, because they just refuse to offer an instrument with a 1 3/4 nut as "stock".
Of course, Breedlove and Taylor and most other American Builders are certainly happy about this, as this way, they get that entire market to themselves.....
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----------------------------------------------------------
-


Brook Taw - Rosewood - Cedar

Taylor 912e - Rosewood - Sitka .

Breedlove C25 - Masterclass Flamed Myrtlewood-Sitka

Santa Cruz Custom 12-Fret-D - Master Grade Bearclaw Italian - Flamed Mahogany

Bourgeois SJ - Maple-European SS

Taylor K12-L7 Koa - Englemann

Tahoo OOO Sitka - Curly Maple

Last edited by Luria; 04-21-2017 at 08:05 AM.
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  #10  
Old 04-21-2017, 09:11 AM
Stevien Stevien is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luria View Post
For me, that 44mm nut width, is just not enough.
And in the case of a Brook, where the depth of the neck is quite slender, then its sort of a 2x the issue.
Perhaps if they built their necks much deeper, then this could compensate for that shorter nut width.
(Dream on......)
So yep, that 44mm nut width is why i dont own a closet full of Gibson Acoustics.
And while im at it....why is it that all imported guitars...Asian...Taks, Yairis, English Luthiers, ....they generally all refuse to create a stock instrument, that has a 1 3/4 nut.
All of them want to give you the 1 11/16th or some of them the 44mm, like Yamaha or Brook, and 2 of them....Yairi and Tak, will give you the 45mm, while skipping happily right over the 1 3/4 or 44.50.
WHY ~???????
1 3/4.....good luck., tho i think Tak did a "Nashville" series about 100 years ago that came stock with a 1.75 nut.
It is a mystery to me why asian and euro builders do not understand that the people who spend the big money on handmade guitars, are a lost market to them, because they just refuse to offer an instrument with a 1 3/4 nut as "stock".
Of course, Breedlove and Taylor and most other American Builders are certainly happy about this, as this way, they get that entire market to themselves.....
..... Agree, entirely. I think some of it has to do with the advent of American Fingerstyle is just slow to catch on over there, even though many of the pioneering fingerstylists were British! They still seem to think everyone just strums chords with a pick, in which case, narrower is better. Even Martin is reverting back to narrow spacing at the bridge. They are the ones who invented wide spacing on the original OMs, & now the OM-28, the flagship of fingerstyle, now comes standard with strum spacing at the bridge, along with their other models. The original OM came with 2 5/16" at saddle. Now that must be custom ordered. But at least they're sticking with the 1 3/4" @ the nut! And Bob, your response was a little sarcastic, & I know you think some of us are snoody & far too picky. But believe me, I've been playing for 30 some years, when you learn a song on one guitar, & then switch, that little 1mm can really throw you a clinker!
Steve
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2008 Martin OMCE Walnut
2008 Martin OMC Cherry

Last edited by Stevien; 04-21-2017 at 09:20 AM.
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  #11  
Old 04-21-2017, 09:22 AM
pg60 pg60 is offline
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Yep the TAW I emailed you about has standard nut, hair smaller than 1 3/4, not going to work for you.

I have small hands and just love the Brook necks. On the other hand I struggle a bit with the 'standard' full scale + 1 3/4 setup.
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  #12  
Old 04-21-2017, 10:29 AM
Luria Luria is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pg60 View Post
Yep the TAW I emailed you about has standard nut, hair smaller than 1 3/4, not going to work for you.

I have small hands and just love the Brook necks. On the other hand I struggle a bit with the 'standard' full scale + 1 3/4 setup.

Understood, and thank you for trying to help me out.

My hands are not large, but..... i need a 1 3/4 nut.
This is because when i first started playing, over 2 decades ago, i was so obsessed with learning how to play, that i actually borrowed a friend's sister's Conn Classical Guitar, and i put 12 -52s on it and learned my first 10 chords (down pat) quickly.
Once i was able to afford a real Steel String, i of course needed a slightly wider neck as my left hand was trained by that classical neck.
I can use a wider nut, but, the 1.75 is the sweet spot for my left hand.
And....PG60.... as Steve wisely related in a post above yours...for some of us the "NECK" is the main thing.

My philosophy about good guitar sound is the same a Richard Hoover's, of SCruz....He states and i have stated before also....."its all about the sustain and the overtones".
For me, the tone is secondary, and in fact mostly a non issue, as i can change the tone, i can alter the EQ that is crated by the woods that make up a guitar, by changing the composition of the saddle, or changing the tuners, the bridge pins, the nut, the string gauge, the composition of the strings, and even by dealing with the action so that i apply more tension or less to the top.
So, if a guitar is too bright, or too dull, or too woody, or too much of a "Canon", i can personally deal with this as i have trained myself over the years to be a more then competent guitar tech.
I make saddles, i make nuts, i can deal with all "action" issues as long as the neck is not needing a reset, and therefore i can deal to a point of satisfaction with all "tone issues" by adjusting "stuff" on my guitars.

But, no matter how good the guitar sounds....or how pretty the woods....if the neck does not let me feel free, if it does not become invisible within my chording and practicing and recording, and if the sustain is not excellent, then that guitar, no matter what i paid for it.....is not going to work for me.
Its all about the NECK, then the sustain...
I absolutely have to have those 2 satisfy me, regarding an acoustic or i'll sell what 99% of everyone else here on this forum would probably keep for a lifetime.
"The Neck and Sustain".. = That is all that matters to me.
Every thing else is secondary or farther down the chain.
I will buy a guitar (long distance) because it meets my criteria regarding purchase, but i wont keep it unless the NECK and the Sustain are what i have to have to be satisfied.
If i still had every guitar that i bought (long distance ) because it was pretty and mint, and all that, then sold because of the (feel of the neck or sustain issue), then i would currently own a very well stocked hi end guitar store
In the last year, i sold 3 Collings and 3 Bourgeois, and all had great sustain, but all have that slight V neck that just makes me crazy trying to feel at home on it.
I finally found an SJ Borg Custom SS, and this neck is different....Less V, and more D, tho slightly less neck depth then the Borg OMs, so, im good.
As far as Colling's goes.....I love them, but only the C-10 works for me, as that one does not have the mild V shaped neck.
__________________
----------------------------------------------------------
-


Brook Taw - Rosewood - Cedar

Taylor 912e - Rosewood - Sitka .

Breedlove C25 - Masterclass Flamed Myrtlewood-Sitka

Santa Cruz Custom 12-Fret-D - Master Grade Bearclaw Italian - Flamed Mahogany

Bourgeois SJ - Maple-European SS

Taylor K12-L7 Koa - Englemann

Tahoo OOO Sitka - Curly Maple

Last edited by Luria; 04-21-2017 at 05:38 PM.
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  #13  
Old 04-21-2017, 10:58 AM
Stevien Stevien is offline
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..... in the end, it's all personal preference. One size does not fit all! The guitar should be an extension of yourself when you're playing. If you're interrupted by the neck, strings, size or shape of the body, then the guitar is not working. Fix it or sell it, & move on to the next.
Steve
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2009 Breedlove Northwest Classic
2008 Martin OMCE Walnut
2008 Martin OMC Cherry
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  #14  
Old 04-21-2017, 12:32 PM
pg60 pg60 is offline
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This has turned into interesting thread! I definitely get that Luria notices 44mm nut-width neck feeling too small for her. I simply missed the 1 3/4 nut requirement in her WTB ad.

Re: the Brook neck, agreed with Wezzy that bigger difference on the Brook is the saddle spacing. Looking at the measurement I'd think it was too small for me but this Brook just fits me like a glove. I'm experimenting with only using index and middle fingers these days, keeping ring finger holstered. Good enough for Jorma it's good enough for me, and helps me get more pop out of 1st string. For me saddle spacing is more about the 'hand-spread needed' than the actual spacing between strings.
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:39 PM
Luria Luria is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevien View Post
..... in the end, it's all personal preference. One size does not fit all! The guitar should be an extension of yourself when you're playing. If you're interrupted by the neck, strings, size or shape of the body, then the guitar is not working. Fix it or sell it, & move on to the next.
Steve

Here is how i think about it...

I dont play a guitar, i play the guitar's sound.
Technique is designed as a vocabulary that allows you to speak with the instrument's sound. (voice)
The better you play, the more technique you have mastered, then the more you can speak with the guitar's sound. (voice)
And of course, all of this comes from your heart, and music is made with the heart using fingers and ears and transmission devices.

So, naturally, its the sound which inspires me to play the sound and to play with the sound...

The guitar is just the transmission device that is designed to allow you to free your heart's expression through it, and any part of the transmission device that interferes with the transmission... is a block to joy, inspiration, creativity, which is to say, its a block to what your heart has to offer.
-
__________________
----------------------------------------------------------
-


Brook Taw - Rosewood - Cedar

Taylor 912e - Rosewood - Sitka .

Breedlove C25 - Masterclass Flamed Myrtlewood-Sitka

Santa Cruz Custom 12-Fret-D - Master Grade Bearclaw Italian - Flamed Mahogany

Bourgeois SJ - Maple-European SS

Taylor K12-L7 Koa - Englemann

Tahoo OOO Sitka - Curly Maple
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