The Acoustic Guitar Forum

Go Back   The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Electric Guitars

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 04-12-2017, 11:12 PM
donalgodon donalgodon is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 13
Default Strat intonation help

Long story short... I just got a 2016 Deluxe Roadhouse and I need to intonate it.

Which direction do I turn the saddle screws to move them toward and away from the nut? I'm having a heck of a time just getting them to turn and I don't want to strip the screws.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-13-2017, 12:24 AM
perttime perttime is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Finland
Posts: 2,108
Default

Loosen the string for the time that you are making the adjustment. Then retune and check the result.
__________________
Breedlove,
Landola,
a couple of electrics,
and a guitar-shaped-object
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-13-2017, 02:41 AM
51 Relic 51 Relic is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Whippingham Isle of Wight England
Posts: 1,313
Default

I would go on the website for Fender guitars and follow the instructions for intonation . You MUST loosen the string you are adjusting first you move the saddle closer to the neck if the 12th fret note is flat to the harmonic and the opposite if it is sharp . You also need a good tuner that has cent markers ideally. So play the harmonic at the 12th then fret the same string on the 12th and compare the tuning you are adjusting the fretted note not the harmonic
Good luck
__________________
Martin OODB JT
Gibson J45
Yamaha LLTA
Yamaha SLG200S
Yamaha NTX1200R
Taylor GSMiniE Rosewood
Joe Brown Uke
AER Compact 60
Marshall AS50D

Now 100% Acoustic and loving it ! No more GAS
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-13-2017, 08:17 AM
Dadzmad Dadzmad is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 419
Default

One more tip - If you are having trouble with the low E and have it as tight as it will go and need to go closer in.

Take out the saddle spring and clip off a section. If you are hesitant to do this use a spring out of a ball point pen to clip to size and save the one that came with the bridge.

This usually happens to me when putting heavier strings or flat wounds on my Strat.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-13-2017, 08:29 AM
redir redir is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mountains of Virginia
Posts: 7,679
Default

If I understand your question correctly, you would turn the screw right to lengthen the string length, left to shorten it. IT should be pretty obvious once you start to turn the screw. No real worries if you go the wrong way, jsut correct it.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-13-2017, 10:43 AM
donalgodon donalgodon is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 13
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by redir View Post
If I understand your question correctly, you would turn the screw right to lengthen the string length, left to shorten it. IT should be pretty obvious once you start to turn the screw. No real worries if you go the wrong way, jsut correct it.
Yeah, I guess I was a bit confused because when I tried to turn the screw the first time, it didn't budge, and I didn't want to strip it or ruin the head, so I'm trying to see which way I need to go. Most of the notes are ringing sharp. I have an older Peterson VSAM, so it's a great tuner. I've just never intonated before. Here's how I understand it:

Flat = move the saddle forward toward the nut (tighten the screw)
Sharp = move the saddle back toward the tail (loosen the screw)

Is that correct? In which case, righty tight, lefty loosy applies?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-13-2017, 11:06 AM
muscmp muscmp is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: socal
Posts: 8,123
Default

these should be your first stop.

https://www.fender.com/articles/tech...intonation-101

https://support.fender.com/hc/en-us/...itar-properly-

play music!
__________________

2014 Martin 00015M
2009 Martin 0015M
2008 Martin HD28
2007 Martin 000-18GE
2006 Taylor 712
2006 Fender Parlor GDP100
1978 Fender F65
1968 Gibson B25-12N
Various Electrics
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-13-2017, 01:48 PM
redir redir is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mountains of Virginia
Posts: 7,679
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by donalgodon View Post
Yeah, I guess I was a bit confused because when I tried to turn the screw the first time, it didn't budge, and I didn't want to strip it or ruin the head, so I'm trying to see which way I need to go. Most of the notes are ringing sharp. I have an older Peterson VSAM, so it's a great tuner. I've just never intonated before. Here's how I understand it:

Flat = move the saddle forward toward the nut (tighten the screw)
Sharp = move the saddle back toward the tail (loosen the screw)

Is that correct? In which case, righty tight, lefty loosy applies?
Yes that is correct. I always remember it by the rhyme Flat - Forward.

To be clear on the method... Play the harmonic over the 12th fret and then fret the 12th fret and if that fretted note is flat compared to the harmonic then you need to move forward to shorten the string length.

When you play the fretted note just be observant and don't press real hard or even too soft. Play it as you normally would.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-13-2017, 03:28 PM
donalgodon donalgodon is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 13
Default

I was able to get the screw to move better this time. I think I got it figured out. Tightening the screw (clockwise) moves the saddle back toward the bridge, but loosening it (counterclockwise) moves the saddle toward the nut. Since I couldn't get it to move initially, I was unsure, so I thought it would be better to ask and go slowly.

Now, I just need to do the actual process...which is going to take me a while given it's my first time.

Now, I'm also noticing that the saddle screws to adjust the height seem to be a bit short. I prefer a higher action, and when it was setup, I guess the tech thought I wanted it low... and like an idiot, I didn't explicitly state that!

Is it possible to buy saddle height screws that are longer than 10mm (I think those are the standard)?
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-14-2017, 02:47 AM
perttime perttime is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Finland
Posts: 2,108
Default

10mm / 3/8" long Bridge Saddle Height Screws should really be plenty. Many find those too long because they protrude from the pieces enough to hurt their hands.

If you cannot get high enough with 10mm screws, you should really check neck relief and neck angle.

If you change saddle heights, not to speak about neck adjustment, you should check intonation afterwards.
__________________
Breedlove,
Landola,
a couple of electrics,
and a guitar-shaped-object
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-14-2017, 06:56 AM
Paleolith54 Paleolith54 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Desert Hills, AZ
Posts: 1,373
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by perttime View Post
10mm / 3/8" long Bridge Saddle Height Screws should really be plenty. Many find those too long because they protrude from the pieces enough to hurt their hands.

If you cannot get high enough with 10mm screws, you should really check neck relief and neck angle.

If you change saddle heights, not to speak about neck adjustment, you should check intonation afterwards.
And, OP, you may know this already but you should check and adjust neck relief and string height before setting intonation.
Reply With Quote
Reply

  The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Electric Guitars






All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:43 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, The Acoustic Guitar Forum
vB Ad Management by =RedTyger=