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  #1  
Old 02-19-2011, 04:46 PM
Ollie Ollie is offline
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Default String Damaged?

Didn't know whether to put this here or in the general forum but here goes.

As you can see in the picture the string is damaged, it looks like part of the string around the edges has come off of that makes sense? There is also a dent/mark in the fret metal.

Would this have happened from a knock on the string or something? Also what should I do about it?


Last edited by Ollie; 02-20-2011 at 08:35 AM.
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  #2  
Old 02-19-2011, 04:49 PM
HHP HHP is offline
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There was another thread/picture recently of the same issue. Was that you or did someone else experience the same winding separation?
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  #3  
Old 02-19-2011, 05:20 PM
Brackett Instruments Brackett Instruments is offline
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I can't see the mark on the fret, but I suspect it's normal fretwear. If this is the first string this has happened to I'd just change strings and see if it happens again.
If the other thread isn't you I'd try to find out if it was the same brand and type of string.
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:20 PM
Ollie Ollie is offline
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Wasn't me with the last one. There's a dent into the fret where the string is, unless that dent caused the string to wear? Should I replace just that string or all of the strings?
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  #5  
Old 02-20-2011, 01:49 AM
Wabi Wabi is offline
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Default String life is limited.

Strings have a short life, if played regularly.
I can only play level 1 stuff, that is on the lower frets.
The D string deteriorates quickly.
Therefore I often play with capo to have longer string life.
Some string sets come with 2 D strings.

On your guitar the fret should be polished I guess.
Not too much, just make it smooth.
Then spend 3$ for a new string.

w.
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:37 AM
martinedwards martinedwards is offline
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some folks replace the strings every time thy gig. that means 5 time a week for some folks.

Brian May is famous for changing the strings on the red special once a year, whether they needed it or not!!

personally, I'd throw a full set on there, after getting some 0000 grade steel wool and giving the fret a polish.
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  #7  
Old 02-20-2011, 02:55 AM
Ollie Ollie is offline
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Okay thanks very much for the reply guys, I'm pretty new to playing guitar and it's only been a few months since I started. I play a Fender CD-60 and it came with a spare set of strings so I might as well use them rather than buy some better strings? Then when they start to go I will buy a new set of better strings?

Do you have to use the steel wool with anything or just straight onto the fret?
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  #8  
Old 02-20-2011, 03:33 AM
taylorcc taylorcc is offline
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This is the earlier thread on a string problem
that is similar to the issue raised in this thread.

http://69.41.173.82/forums/showthread.php?t=206620

In that thread, it looked like a manufacturing defect was causing the breaks.

For this thread, a rough fret might be causing the problem if it persists through another string change and occurs at the same place.

Another possibility is that the wound part of the string is just worn through from play.
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:37 AM
Ollie Ollie is offline
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Thanks for the reply taylorcc.

Have taken some more pics and you can see the dent in the fret:





I'm guessing the string rubbing on the fret is causing the outside of the strings to fault. What would be the best way of smoothing the fret out? I've read that the steel wool probably wont lift it out due to the depth of the dent.

Thanks.
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  #10  
Old 02-20-2011, 08:50 AM
taylorcc taylorcc is offline
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The proper repair entails dressing, leveling and reshaping the frets to remove the wear and retain the proper height fret to fret.

That said, if you just want to get rid of roughness I agree steel wool will not be much help. Try a fine sandpaper, say 400 grit. You do not want to lower the fret height or dig out a larger hole. You just want to remove the roughness. Very light strokes and check frequently. You should be able to feel some roughness before you start and not feel it when you are done.

You could temporarily put blue tape on either side of the fret to protect the fingerboard.
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2009 CA Cargo Raw, 2006 Collings OM-1 SS light build, 2004 Taylor 714ce, 2000 Taylor 310K, 1991 Martin HD-28, 1971 Martin 0-18, 1967 Guild F-30

2006 Ovation Legend 6756LX 12 string, 2004 Taylor 354ce 12 string, 1976 Guild G312-NT 12 string (dreadnaught shape)

1966 Martin T-15 tiple, Mele koa ukulele
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  #11  
Old 02-20-2011, 11:21 AM
Ollie Ollie is offline
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Thanks very much again, will try and get some!

I will have to remove all of the strings then? I may as well then put all new strings on the guitar?
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  #12  
Old 02-20-2011, 11:24 AM
taylorcc taylorcc is offline
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New strings can't hurt.
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2009 CA Cargo Raw, 2006 Collings OM-1 SS light build, 2004 Taylor 714ce, 2000 Taylor 310K, 1991 Martin HD-28, 1971 Martin 0-18, 1967 Guild F-30

2006 Ovation Legend 6756LX 12 string, 2004 Taylor 354ce 12 string, 1976 Guild G312-NT 12 string (dreadnaught shape)

1966 Martin T-15 tiple, Mele koa ukulele
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  #13  
Old 02-23-2011, 05:56 PM
Ollie Ollie is offline
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Okay well I took the strings off today and used some 400 grit plus some 0000 grade steel wool on it it smooth the dent as much as possible. I have now restrung it and wow even with the spare Fender strings that came with the guitar when I bought it, it sounds so different!

I think I'm going to get some DR strings or another make for when I next re-string it to see what they are like. Is it worth trying say some DR 10-48 rather than the 12-52 I've been using? To see what it's like and if I prefer it etc?

Thanks for everyone's help and contribution, hopefully this string wont go the same way as the last one!
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  #14  
Old 02-23-2011, 07:10 PM
taylorcc taylorcc is offline
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Yep, new strings always sound great

Try to remember the sound you are hearing now: brighter , jangly. When the string sound starts to go dull or dead, it's time to change.

Re the .10s, no harm trying them. They will be somewhat easier to fret and easier to bend, deliberately or accidentally. They will have less volume. Flatpicking will be very different because the .10s have a more rubber-bandy feel. Some new players start with a lighter gauge like .10s until their calluses develop and then move up to a heavier gauge.

The .10s have less tension on them so they may slightly affect your action. I'm guessing the action might go a bit lower but it depends on the guitar. If you do get fret rattle raise the action with a shim under the saddle. Measure the action at the twelfth fret with an accurate ruler graduated in 64ths. Write down the measurement. Change strings. Measure the action again. Write down. Play. If you think the action needs to be tweaked, consult your written measurements to determine the amount to shim. If you want to raise the 12th fret action by 1/64, the shim needs to be double that or 1/32.
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2009 CA Cargo Raw, 2006 Collings OM-1 SS light build, 2004 Taylor 714ce, 2000 Taylor 310K, 1991 Martin HD-28, 1971 Martin 0-18, 1967 Guild F-30

2006 Ovation Legend 6756LX 12 string, 2004 Taylor 354ce 12 string, 1976 Guild G312-NT 12 string (dreadnaught shape)

1966 Martin T-15 tiple, Mele koa ukulele
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