Watch a build, with videos - Page 3

stringjunky · #31 02-17-2010, 12:44 AM

I'll third that! Fitting and setting the neck would be interesting to see.

WhistlingFish · #32 02-17-2010, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woody b

what video would all of you like for me to make next? I won't make dangerous powertool videos (like slotting the fingerboard on my table saw) but I'll get my wife to film pretty much anything else.

Woody, whether you're pore-filling, applying or spraying the finish or rubbing it out later, I'd be interested in anything to do with finishing.

There's no shortage of pictures of the construction stages on the various build threads - which is great - but finishing is still the greatest challenge for me and seems to be a subject that's often glossed over (pun intended!).

OC1 · #33 02-18-2010, 08:17 AM

Good idea about the tung oil. I will try to do my next fingerboard binding like that. On my second I got lazy and didn't do any fingerboard binding, just file the slots to exact depth so there is no gap with fretwire. But normally I like binding.

OC1 · #34 02-18-2010, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhistlingFish

Woody, whether you're pore-filling, applying or spraying the finish or rubbing it out later, I'd be interested in anything to do with finishing.

There's no shortage of pictures of the construction stages on the various build threads - which is great - but finishing is still the greatest challenge for me and seems to be a subject that's often glossed over (pun intended!).

Some people use fine dust of the same wood with shellac, some use pumice with alcohol and some use epoxy. I used the two first methods so far and Like the dust/shellac most, but you need some way to make good amount of fine clean dust. The pumice works well, but you need to really sand it down clean or it will leave a ghosted surface.
Also choosing wood without open pores helps 100x to overcome this ;-). On my second I put cypress sides and back - no pores filling and after FP it is a mirror like. Much easier to create flawless surface than the rosewood I used on first.

Brackett Instruments · #35 02-21-2010, 04:14 PM

I filmed the voicing, but it needs some editing to make it fit in youtube time, and to keep it from being boring.
Dimensions are,
Lower bout 14 5/8"
Waist 8 3/8"
Upper bout 10 1/16"
Body length 19 3/8"
Depth 3 3/4" to 4 5/8"
The scale is 24 5/8"

Here it is sitting inside my dread mold for a size comparison.

I'll do some kind of video on pore filling and finishing. Alot of builders sub their finishes out, but I do everything myself. I pore fill with either West System epoxy, or medium CA (superglue) depending on the wood. This one will be filled with epoxy, and finished with catalyzed polyurethane. It will be a while before it's ready for finishing. I've got to upload some more pictures. I'll post some more progress later tonight.

naccoachbob · #36 02-21-2010, 04:51 PM

Woody, thanks for the build progress. I just finished my first kit build and wish I'd seen yours before. I really have learned a lot from your explanation of the reasons for some of the steps you take. Can't wait to see your videos.
Thanks again,
Bob

Brackett Instruments · #37 02-21-2010, 06:13 PM

The bracing is laid out, and the braces are cut. I do the final shaping after they're all installed.
The intersection of the X brace is a very important joint. It needs to fit. I mark it and cut slightly undersized with a small hand saw. I do the final fitting with a chisel and file. No fancy jigs here. I rarely use the same size or angle so a jig wouldn't do any good anyway.

I use hot hide glue for all the bracing. It's super strong, and dries extremely hard and doesn't creep. Hot hide glue is excellent for guitar construction. Some builders (and pretty much all big companies) use bottled glue but I think using hot hide glue is worth the extra effort. I pre heat the parts for stronger joints, and longer working time. Hot hide glue jells at 95 degrees. The joint has to be together and clamped before it jells. Pieces don't need to be "hot", just a little warmer. Too much heat can warp the top, or make stuff that's already glued come loose.

After the upper transverse brace and X brace have dried I install the bridge plate and tone bars. I shape the braces to voice the top instead of using pre shaped braces. The bridge plate on this guitar is Osage Orange. I use a variety of woods for bridgeplates.

More pictures soon.

tekaitora · #38 02-22-2010, 12:15 AM

Woody, thank you so much for taking the time to post all of these pictures! I'm really looking forward to seeing your video on the voicing process too. Good luck with the editing.

blessings,
Scott

Brackett Instruments · #39 02-28-2010, 05:41 PM

The last braces I glue in are around the soundhole, and the finger braces.

Here's the top with all the braces installed, but not shaped.

Here they are after voicing. I'm working on a voicing video. I install the top before the back so I can do the final voicing, and clean up then. Gluing the top on changes it's timbre.

The braces are all Adirondack Spruce except for the upper transverse brace. It's Sitka and Rosewood laminated for extra strength. It's job is to keep the neck block from rotating inward, causing the need for a neck reset. The bridge plate is Osage Orange. I use a variety of materials for bridge plates.

I used to install tops and backs as soon as they were braced based on information I had read. Now instead of installing them immediately I let them sit in my climate controlled shop so the moisture introduced to the wood by the glue has a chance to dry out. While the top is acclimating, I'll work on other things, including the back.

I made a fancy jig to put the 15 foot radius on the back braces with my router table, but I've found it's just as easy, and alot more simple to mark them, trim to the mark with a hand plane, and finish the radius in a radius dish.

I can't pass up the opportunity for another shot of my go bar deck. Yep, hot hide glue is used.

More soon

Coke_zero · #40 03-01-2010, 07:46 PM

Looking good Woody.

Brackett Instruments · #41 03-14-2010, 06:02 PM

Here's the video I made voicing the top.
Voicing video on youtube

Just to clear things up, I don't have an accent.............the rest of the World does

tekaitora · #42 03-15-2010, 02:49 AM

I learned a lot from the voicing video! Great work and a nice touch using your instruments for background music.

thank you!
Scott

stringjunky · #43 03-16-2010, 01:01 PM

Woody...That was great! I didn't realise that there was that much timbre in a piece of spruce. That's nifty idea speeding bits up rather than just editing chunks out...it gives a better experience for the viewer.

BTW your accent is great and memorable...bring it on!

I'm sure alot of people will appreciate your effort.

Thanks

Tony

cpabolting · #44 03-16-2010, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woody b

Here's the video I made voicing the top.
Voicing video on youtube

Just to clear things up, I don't have an accent.............the rest of the World does

Excellent video.

Brackett Instruments · #45 03-19-2010, 04:46 PM

After the back braces are installed I'll shape them. They're kinda triangular shaped, and tapered toward the ends. They will run into the kerfing, like the upper braces on the top.

I install a softwood, cross grain center strip last. Some do it first, and cut out for the braces. I see no advantage with either order. I use masking tape to get the length right for a perfect fit. The braces are Mahogany. The center strip is Redwood.

After the center strip is installed the back is ready for a final clean up, and then installation.

Next is installing the top and back.