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  #151  
Old 12-16-2017, 08:34 AM
LouieAtienza LouieAtienza is offline
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That's good news. ..
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  #152  
Old 12-16-2017, 09:46 AM
Wood Knot Wood Knot is offline
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I'm a little late to this party, but I've read through and caught up. It looks as though you've learned a lot, and done a nice job. As to the subject in this post, you are right...a little makes a big difference. If you consider the heal to body joint to be a fulcrum (like the center of a teeter-totter) then you can see where a little movement closer to the fulcrum (such as the area underneath the fretboard extension) can translate into a much bigger difference the further out that you move (the bridge/saddle). I'm glad for you that you've figured it out on this guitar. Great job.

Joel

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Originally Posted by CabinetMan View Post
I thought I'd post and let you all know that I found the problem with the Fert board/neck angle situation. I had to take a break for a few days on the guitar to get caught back up on my work and glad that I did. I was starting to get frustrated with not being able to figure out the problem.
Anyway, had a little time today while some stain was drying on some doors.
I got to investigating and trying to figure out a shim to use or whether I need to change the neck angle or not. To make a somewhat long story short, I found a VERY SLIGHT hump on the sound board where the fret board extension sits on the top. All I had to do was sand a VERY small amount off where the fret board extension sits.
What a world of difference it made, Its hard to believe that such a small amount could make such a huge difference. Its like a different guitar, the action is perfect and my son says it plays like a dream.
I also put the Grover 18:1 sta-tites on instead of the Rotomatics. No its not neck heavy at all either.
Excited to get the finish on it now. May try to do that tomorrow if time allows.
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1993 Taylor 712 (that I've recently acquired after waiting for over 20 years for the owner to be ready to sell)

1995 Taylor Limited Edition GAWS (that I traded my Gibson J-200 for in 1995)
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  #153  
Old 12-16-2017, 11:19 AM
CabinetMan CabinetMan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LouieAtienza View Post
That's good news. ..
Yes it is, thanks.
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  #154  
Old 12-16-2017, 11:21 AM
CabinetMan CabinetMan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wood Knot View Post
I'm a little late to this party, but I've read through and caught up. It looks as though you've learned a lot, and done a nice job. As to the subject in this post, you are right...a little makes a big difference. If you consider the heal to body joint to be a fulcrum (like the center of a teeter-totter) then you can see where a little movement closer to the fulcrum (such as the area underneath the fretboard extension) can translate into a much bigger difference the further out that you move (the bridge/saddle). I'm glad for you that you've figured it out on this guitar. Great job.
Thank you and Thanks for the kind words. Will post some pictures as I spray it.
Not getting to work on it today, Had other things I had to get done.
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  #155  
Old 12-18-2017, 11:12 AM
CabinetMan CabinetMan is offline
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All sanded, taped and ready to spray. Going to try to get the guitar sprayed today.

20171218_114958 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr
20171218_115038 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr
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  #156  
Old 12-18-2017, 06:36 PM
CabinetMan CabinetMan is offline
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I got everything sprayed today. I used a natural satin finish, thought it suited the look of the guitar. I used Axalta Zenith Pre-cat Lacquer. The only problem I had was that on part of the neck the finish dried with a milky look to it. Being that this is a water based finish I'm hoping it will go away on its on.

20171218_144015 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr

20171218_144117 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr
20171218_144315 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr
20171218_144702 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr

Will post some Finished pictures as soon a I can get it together.
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  #157  
Old 01-05-2018, 09:24 AM
Wood Knot Wood Knot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CabinetMan View Post
I got everything sprayed today. I used a natural satin finish, thought it suited the look of the guitar. I used Axalta Zenith Pre-cat Lacquer. The only problem I had was that on part of the neck the finish dried with a milky look to it. Being that this is a water based finish I'm hoping it will go away on its on.

20171218_144015 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr

20171218_144117 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr
20171218_144315 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr
20171218_144702 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr

Will post some Finished pictures as soon a I can get it together.


If there's a lot of humidity in the air when you spray, it can get trapped underneath if your lacquer dries too quickly...called blushing. It will usually go away after a little time. You can add retarder to your lacquer before you spray, which will slow down the drying process and allow a little more time for the trapped moisture to escape.
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1993 Taylor 712 (that I've recently acquired after waiting for over 20 years for the owner to be ready to sell)

1995 Taylor Limited Edition GAWS (that I traded my Gibson J-200 for in 1995)
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