Other brand guitar quality issues.

[davidd]

Originally Posted by lneal14513

I’ve only had binding separation issues with one Martin, a 2013 NAMM D28. I wasn’t terribly surprised because according to what I’d read that was in a window of time where they had changed adhesives. It was pretty easy to correct but still a little annoying. In any manufacturing environment where a coating is applied control of the environment and potential contamination is always a challenge, but it’s a little frustrating (as I’m sure it is for Martin) if this is occurring again on any scale.

If it was "frustrating" for Martin, all they had to do was say to themselves "how does Yamaha do it?"

[FLRon]

The binding at the fretboard extension came loose on my 1996 Larrivee C-10 several years ago. A quick email to Larrivee and they told me it could easily be fixed by using a tiny drop of glue. That was an easy fix and I’ve not had another issue with it.

[M19]

A one-off: I had a custom Taylor built with red paste fill on an all mahogany GC. The finish developed "bubbles" all over, perhaps due to a poor prep or rushed job. Anyway, they took the guitar back and refinished it, and it has been fine since (12 yrs).

A repeater: I bought a new Lowden F32c that showed finish cracks at the waist (top) when I opened the case for the first time. I would have kept it for a 10% discount, but they said, "no, we'll refinish it". I got the refinished guitar back a few months later and, wouldn't you know it...finish cracks in the same spot (but not the same cracks). I returned it and bought a McIlroy. No issues.

A hope: I have a 1999 00-18 Steve Howe with no binding issues. (Oh crap, I've just jinxed it, haven't I?)

An acceptance: I have a 1913 Gibson F-4 that has minor age issues and repairs all over, and it sounds heavenly!

[lneal14513]

Originally Posted by davidd

If it was "frustrating" for Martin, all they had to do was say to themselves "how does Yamaha do it?"

Truth is you're right. I'm not a huge Martin fan but I have a tendency to go easy on large scale assembly operations having worked in that environment in the distant past.

Your comment referencing Yamahas made me think of a friend from years ago. He had a 70's Alvarez D45 copy that he purchased new instead of a Martin. Most people don't know that Takamine and Alvarez both initially penetrated the US market making killer Martin and Gibson copies.

He has since passed away but I checked with his daughter. The binding (and abalone) is still intact on the front and back of that 50+ year old guitar.

[SalFromChatham]

In the last decade, several QC problems have popped up with new Martins.

1) premature neck reset needs.
2) nut cut wrong so that high E rolls off fretboard.
3) binding.

I have experienced two of the three, and it does stink.

If buying a new Martin, try to be keen on examination of the neck angle; you want lower action usually, but with a saddle that protrudes a healthy amount. Also look for new Martins with no binding or wood binding. The nut issue wouldn’t stop me from a guitar whose tone I liked. That’s cheaper and easier to fix.

[L20A]

My Yamaha L-20A from 1981 had the binding come loose about 15 years ago.
It was at the waist on the bass side.
I used super glue to put it back in place.

That same guitar had to have the bridge re-glued about 20 years ago.

Back then I was not real good at humidifying my guitars.

[Bluenose]

The Eastman E10SS, a Adi/Mahogany knock off of a J45 that I bought online in 2014 had a very soft nitro finish that never really cured properly IMO. Even so I still own it because it sounds pretty good especially given what I paid for it and a few dings doesn't matter. As the saying goes it looks good from afar but it's far from good.

[tomh]

I have an early Taylor 410 that the binding came loose in several spots. The guitar sounds great but I hate the skinny neck.