#1
|
|||
|
|||
Lacquer Drip/Run Strategy?
First time spraying Nitro and sprayed a little heavy in spots which developed a couple runs. Nothing major but was wondering the best strategy on level sanding those runs? I've sprayed my first 3 coats, (day 1) and wonder if it's best to level sand them out tomorrow, before the next 3 coats? Or wait until final cure and level sand them out then?
Thank You |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
You can do it either way. I don't like to mess with it too much when a finish is soft. Too many things can happen and I've regretted it before. If they are big enough, it is probably best to knock them down a little. You don't want them to cure slower (because of the amount of finish in that area) and make problems in your final sanding as you're running over gummy spots. Just be careful about starting a cycle of fixes that can happen when handling an instrument with a soft finish. If they are small, I've learned to let them be.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks very much for the reply. I think I'll follow your advice and check relative hardness of the runs before tomorrow's next 3 coats. If they are hard enough I think I will lightly sand and check again for hardness but not completely level unless truly hard enough to do so. I think I will also put off tomorrow's till later in the day to let those first 3 coats get as hard as possible.
I'm using warmed Mohawk's nitro instrument finish in rattle cans with StewMac's nozzles and the spray process seems pretty smooth, just lot's to learn about the best technique. Thank you again for the help. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
I would level all drips and runs before shooting any more lacquer otherwise you'll be waiting much longer for full cure to level and sand at the end.
Depending on how thick the drips are you may need to wait another day or more before sanding them off. It will be a mess if you don't. Finishing requires patience. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Irrelevant
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I would use a single edge razor blade or fresh utility knife blade to scrape them close to flush first. You can wrap the two outer edges with a layer of masking tape or two, leaving the exposed blade edge in the middle 1/2" or so as a safety stop.
Then strip sand- 1/2" wide strip of fine sand paper face down over the drip. Put light finger pressure directly over the drip and pull the sanding strip out. Do this across the drip, not along it. Repeat until the strip brings the drip sown to the surrounding surface level. As others have stated, you must wait until the lacquer is hard or you may end up with a gooey mess.
__________________
'21 Bourgeois Vintage D '21 Martin Custom Shop 18 Style 3 personally crafted mandolins 2 tele partscasters Yamaha Pacifica 611 VFM |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Run
Definitely address it by scraping with a razor blade as mentioned.
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Plus 3, razor with Scotch tape on either end and then follow with little sanding block.
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
a thought
Scraping drips. I've scraped off most of a drip, waited for the drip to harden, and used a Stanley knife blade with the corners rounded as a scraper, much stiffer than a razor blade and less prone to chatter. Idea was that the surface is level before applying more finish.
For that matter, I level the finish after each application of a cross-coat. I've never done anything else, and the end finishes turn out level and (I think) thin. Good enough to please me, anyway. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for all the tips. Used the razor blade tape method and it was down right easy. Finish was hard and then a light sand, (1000 grit) sprayed a couple more coats. Invisible repair. Thank you again.
|