Cordoba GK Studio

[typhy]

I'm looking for a set of strings for my Cordoba GK Studio.
I'm a complete noob and this is my first guitar.
Can someone recommend a good set of strings for me?

Also, I need to replace the saddle.
Where can I order one to fit my guitar?
There are no local shops around my area so everything has to be ordered online.
Thanks guys

[typhy]

I'm buying a set of Savarez Cristal Corum High Tension 500CJ.

So which saddle do I buy? I have no idea which one will fit my guitar!

[zhunter]

Those strings are the type Cordoba puts on the guitar when it ships so you should be OK with them. The everyman's string seems to be D'Addario Pro Artes. I use the composite version on my acoustic electric nylon strings (one of which is a GK studio) and they work OK at a moderate price if not the most exciting string out there. For a slight upgrade over the D'Addarios, I prefer Savarez HT Classics and put them on my better nylon string acoustic only guitars but I haven't tried em on the GK. My GK is pretty bright and the HTs might be too crisp. Have to try em someday.

If you have limited/no experience a saddle swap might not be something you want to try. Stewmac and Strings by Mail (and others I suspect) sell replacement saddle blanks and precuts. You could probably contact those folks and get some advice on a saddle for your guitar. If you are really crafty , you can measure the thickness of your saddle, buy a blank of the proper thickness and cut your own. I for one would not try this but if you have no choice then necessity rules. In that case, you might want to buy more than one blank!

hunter

[typhy]

thank you so much ^

I just checked the price of D'Addario Pro Artes on stringsbymail.
They are only $6 a set!
I bought a set of Savarez Cristal Corum High Tension 500CJ for $12 from sweetwater, what a bummer!

[softballbryan]

don't be bummed about the cristal's.. you may like them a lot more.. they are different then the D'addarios...

Bryan

[Gcunplugged]

1) I'm curious. You say you "need" to replace the saddle. What is driving that? IS the action too high, too low, or are you not satisfied with the tone, or?

2) I have a GK Studio, but haven't replaced the strings yet. Can someone (who has) comment on whether the under-saddle transducer is stuck to the saddle, or if the saddle comes out easily?

Reason for asking that, I destroyed an under-saddle transducer on my Alvarez before I had a clue as to what I was doing...

GC

[typhy]

I need to replace it because I took it out to sand it down and ended up doing too much. Now the action is too low and the big E string buzzes lol. I'm going to buy a new one and just keep it at the default action. Learn to play the proper way or dont learn at all right? Actually, that's probably not right lol. But yeah.. just need to replace it

[Gcunplugged]

Well as you can see from above, I've made a mistake (or 10) along the way. Luckily most have been inexpensive to fix

As for lowering the action at the saddle, there's no harm in that as long as you are willing to write off the mistake as a learning experience. And don't assume that you should adapt to the way the guitar was when you received it. Most factory setups err on the high side. Because as you just found out, it's easy to go lower, but not so easy to go higher.

As a general rule, to lower action at the 12th fret by 1mm, you would take 2mm off the saddle. But as you've learned, you need a bit more clearance under the larger strings than the smaller ones. So there comes a point where you might need to work the top of the saddle to only lower a particular string, rather than sanding the bottom any further. This is a bit more tricky and I'd recommend studying up a bit on that before attempting it.

I have used Tusq blanks to make new saddles for a couple of my guitars, and had relatively good experiences, as long as I:
a) measure first, and mark my "do not cross" line
b) take my time and err on the side of caution

There are folks here who have lots of experience with this, and working with different materials. Most will tell you that bone is better, but I don't personally have any experience with it. I also don't know if bone is better or worse for steel string versus nylon, but I'm sure the more experienced folks here will lend an opinion.

[zhunter]

You can take that saddle and shim it. The Erlewine method seems pretty right to me. Take a paper guitar string packet (they still pack strings in those don't they?) and soak an area with water thin super glue. Once dry, super glue it to the bottom of the saddle. Once that dries you can trim the paper shim and sand it to the shape of the saddle so there is no overhang. Repeat as necessary. Not for the purist and maybe not long term but that will get you through until you figure out the replacement. And I'm betting it will sound fine.

As for the cost of strings, the Cristal Corums are probably more lively than the D'Addarios and strings are not a lifetime investment. You'll have to buy more and can try others then. Far from tragic.

hunter

[Red_Label]

Originally Posted by zhunter

You can take that saddle and shim it. The Erlewine method seems pretty right to me. Take a paper guitar string packet (they still pack strings in those don't they?) and soak an area with water thin super glue. Once dry, super glue it to the bottom of the saddle. Once that dries you can trim the paper shim and sand it to the shape of the saddle so there is no overhang. Repeat as necessary. Not for the purist and maybe not long term but that will get you through until you figure out the replacement. And I'm betting it will sound fine.

As for the cost of strings, the Cristal Corums are probably more lively than the D'Addarios and strings are not a lifetime investment. You'll have to buy more and can try others then. Far from tragic.

hunter

Good advice! I've shimmed many a guitar over the years and if done well, it doesn't noticeably detract from the tone of the instrument. Bone/TUSQ/whatever direct to wood contact is desirable of course. But most acoustic-electrics have under-saddle transducers between the saddle and bridge anyways.

As far as D'Addario ProArtes are concerned... I've tried and used almost everything over the past 26 or so years that I've played nylon strings and for the past year I've chosen to use nothing but the Pro Arte Extra-Hard tension Composites (EJ44C) on my Breedlove crossovers (Masterclass Bossa Nova as main and Passport N250 as gig backup). I have to state that I rarely play with my nails any longer, preferring to use a pick for my style.

[zhunter]

Originally Posted by Red_Label

As far as D'Addario ProArtes are concerned... I've tried and used almost everything over the past 26 or so years that I've played nylon strings and for the past year I've chosen to use nothing but the Pro Arte Extra-Hard tension Composites (EJ44C) on my Breedlove crossovers (Masterclass Bossa Nova as main and Passport N250 as gig backup). I have to state that I rarely play with my nails any longer, preferring to use a pick for my style.

Yes, I run the ProArte composites on my acoustic electrics. I am using hard tension but may move up to extra-hard. I've started using the composite polymer third and like the way it is working. They seem to get the job done with the tuning settling out fairly quickly and they provide good life under the duress of gigging. I still like the HT Classics better on acoustic only guitars but I don't find the added cost of those strings worth it for guitars I play mostly amplified.

While I don't use nails, I do use my fingertips and I find the added sparkle of the HTs really helps. Amplified, I can compensate other ways and the D'Addarios still have plenty of clarity.

Seems to me the world of nylon strings is wide open right now with a lot of cool choices. I get overwhelmed but it is nice to sample some flavors.

hunter