saddle adjustment in middle

[Tony Done]

Rodger and Charles, thanks. I've always used the fretboard radius, using radius gauges and a home-made sanding jig to get the desired curvature on drop-in saddles. I wondered if there were any strong arguments against that.

[ChrisN]

As an amateur finding his way, I can report that I am very pleased with having ignored the radius and adjusting the saddle from the top in .004 increments. I have some guitars that I adjusted from the saddle-bottom to achieve desired action on E and e (after creating radius), but always felt the strings in the middle were left too high. The guitar I adjusted from the top via the .004 increment is the only one that I can play without making any observation about an irregularity in the action. String action doesn't occur to me until I pick up a different guitar, after which I resolve to do them all the same way at the next string change.

[LouieAtienza]

Originally Posted by Tony Done

Rodger and Charles, thanks. I've always used the fretboard radius, using radius gauges and a home-made sanding jig to get the desired curvature on drop-in saddles. I wondered if there were any strong arguments against that.

I think if you use a constant radius on your fretboard there should be no issue. If you are using a compound radius, then the middle strings maybe a tad too high unless you calculate what the bridge radius should be.

So for a compound radius of 10" at the nut, 16" at the fretboard end (of a 22 fret neck, about 18-1/2") on a 25-1/2" scale (this is the typical Warmoth "compound radius"), the radius at the bridge should be around 18-1/4" (18.27" to be more exact.)

[Tony Done]

Originally Posted by LouieAtienza

I think if you use a constant radius on your fretboard there should be no issue. If you are using a compound radius, then the middle strings maybe a tad too high unless you calculate what the bridge radius should be.

So for a compound radius of 10" at the nut, 16" at the fretboard end (of a 22 fret neck, about 18-1/2") on a 25-1/2" scale (this is the typical Warmoth "compound radius"), the radius at the bridge should be around 18-1/4" (18.27" to be more exact.)

Yes, I would take that into account, but I haven't encountered it so far, except on one of my electrics with a 24.75" Warmoth Pro neck, where I can fiddle with individual saddles. I just had a quick look, I have a shallow radius on the treble strings, and just about flat on the bass ones.

[zeeway]

http://charlestauber.com/luthier/Res...May%202015.pdf

In searching for info on saddles, heights, etc., I came across this thread and the Charles Tauber pdf on basic guitar adjustment. Thank you, Mr. Tauber, for clear, concise directions and explanations. This is some of the best technical writing I have ever seen.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by zeeway

Thank you, Mr. Tauber, for clear, concise directions and explanations.

You're welcome.