New Martin D-10E with issues, looking for advice

[Kaydee]

return it,no ifs no buts,why anyone would think it’s ok to buy a new guitar and put up with this is beyond me.Go get a guitar that is set up properly.Don’t part with your cash until is is spot on.

[spiralout]

I guess more plainly put: Many people are suggesting that this guitar needs to be taped up into a bag and hydrated for weeks, and that should happen before any tech even works on it. That isn't really feasible for me because I will lose my return window, and if I have work done before hydrating it they could do damage or fix something that's not broken.

I really do NOT want to return this guitar, I want to play it and welcome it into my family for many years of enjoyment... but I also don't want to spend $850 on something that has to sit in a bag for 2-4 weeks to hopefully fix it so that I can hopefully get it more fixes and hope that the issue doesn't creep back in.

I don't know, you guys are all great and way more experienced... what would you do if you were me?

[spiralout]

Originally Posted by Kaydee

return it,no ifs no buts,why anyone would think it’s ok to buy a new guitar and put up with this is beyond me.Go get a guitar that is set up properly.Don’t part with your cash until is is spot on.

Do you think I should steer clear of the Martin Road Series? It seems a LOT of people are having this same problem, including some in this forum. At this point I'm almost tempted to just go get a Taylor or something with HPL because my luck has been so bad.

[spiralout]

Originally Posted by docwatsonfan

I wonder what gage of strings are installed, and is the guitar tuned to pitch?
Sighting down the neck, does it have a twist or warp?

It says it comes with the standard Martin MA550T strings. I tried to look for twists in the neck and didn't see anything but I'm not sure how to check for that. Should I grab a large flat edge to measure?

Originally Posted by TBman

The saddle looks good. A picture of the neck/body joint from the side would help us too. Is there a hump where the the neck meets the body?

Not sure if this is what you are looking for:

[warfrat73]

What a bunch of us said was that the top looks ok. But that's based only on the pics provided, that doesn't mean that it couldn't still be dried out. But that, based on those picture alone, there's nothing that jumps off the screen as being necessarily a problem.

If I were you at this point, I'd probably take it back. You want something that's right from the get go, and that's understandable. Guitar Center, unfortunately, is not the best place for that.

A good option would be to get on the phone with Sweetwater, talk to a rep explain the problem you've been having (or just order one from them). They actually do hands on inspections of their guitars before they ship out. Or perhaps get in touch with someplace like Maury's Music and do the same thing. Or, you mentioned you're in New England, you could go to some of the nice smaller shops there and make sure you're walking out the door with something that meets your needs.

And, incidentally, if you're going to listen to one person on this thread, it should probably be Charles Tauber.

[warfrat73]

And, no, I would write off the whole Martin Road series because of this. This seems more a Guitar Center issue than a Martin issue.

[Kaydee]

Originally Posted by spiralout

Do you think I should steer clear of the Martin Road Series? It seems a LOT of people are having this same problem, including some in this forum. At this point I'm almost tempted to just go get a Taylor or something with HPL because my luck has been so bad.

To be honest ,I would not be too focused on any one make.Choose your budget then go and try any number of makes,pick the one that best pleases your ears and fingers,and as I have said before on a good number of posts,don’t be swayed by the name on the headstock or the country of manufacture.
There are dozens of stunning guitars outside the world of martin and taylor,and for any given budget most are better than both these.
Just my opinion
good hunting.

[ASC67]

It appears to me that it is dried out a bit. I would hydrate it for a few day and see what happens. It should have a bit more belly to the top than what I'm seeing. I just went through this with a 000-16T that I bought. It came from denver and was quite dried out, although no cracks. The top had sunken in front of the bridge and had almost no belly behind the bridge . After three days of two sponges in the case the top has rebounded and the belly behind the bridge is normal looking.

What is the string height at the 12th ? It also sounds like you might need a bit more relief in the neck.

[lowrider]

If you want to keep your same deal with GC, take it back and get a different one. Inspect it well in the store and if it's just as bad return that one also. Then try someone else.

[Robin, Wales]

Originally Posted by spiralout

Barely any gap at all. I can slide a piece of paper under the string, but it kind of scrapes against the frets/string.

There's your problem. You should be looking to get a feeler gauge of 006" to 008" between the 7th fret and the underside of the each string - when that string is held down at the first fret (use a capo) and 14th fret. Go by the D and G string as they pass over the 7th fret as the most accurate points to measure this. The general buzzing on various frets and strings does all point to your neck being a little too straight. It is really not a big issue. A small amount of truss rod adjustment would sort this. Even GC should be able to do that! So I would let them correct it for you, and if you are not happy then return it.

Keep going with the hydration to 45% as well.

[spiralout]

Originally Posted by warfrat73

What a bunch of us said was that the top looks ok. But that's based only on the pics provided, that doesn't mean that it couldn't still be dried out. But that, based on those picture alone, there's nothing that jumps off the screen as being necessarily a problem.

If I were you at this point, I'd probably take it back. You want something that's right from the get go, and that's understandable. Guitar Center, unfortunately, is not the best place for that.

A good option would be to get on the phone with Sweetwater, talk to a rep explain the problem you've been having (or just order one from them). They actually do hands on inspections of their guitars before they ship out. Or perhaps get in touch with someplace like Maury's Music and do the same thing. Or, you mentioned you're in New England, you could go to some of the nice smaller shops there and make sure you're walking out the door with something that meets your needs.

And, incidentally, if you're going to listen to one person on this thread, it should probably be Charles Tauber.

Thanks for all the info and help. I'll let it sit in humidity for a few more days and maybe bring it to a tech on Saturday and make a decision. Tough call on the humidity thing, because many said it does look a bit dry/flat, including Charles. Obviously hard to tell on just pictures. Thanks again for your help.

Originally Posted by Robin, Wales

There's your problem. You should be looking to get a feeler gauge of 006" to 008" between the 7th fret and the underside of the each string - when that string is held down at the first fret (use a capo) and 14th fret. Go by the D and G string as they pass over the 7th fret as the most accurate points to measure this. The general buzzing on various frets and strings does all point to your neck being a little too straight. It is really not a big issue. A small amount of truss rod adjustment would sort this. Even GC should be able to do that! So I would let them correct it for you, and if you are not happy then return it.

Keep going with the hydration to 45% as well.

I tried turning the truss rod a bit to the left for relief, but didn't notice any difference (maybe even worse), and since I don't want to mess anything up I ended up bringing it back to where I thought it was originally. Do you think there is any "risk" in adjusting the truss myself, or should I stay away from it and wait for a pro? Thanks for the info, and in general I'll see what I discover this weekend.

[warfrat73]

Originally Posted by spiralout

I tried turning the truss rod a bit to the left for relief, but didn't notice any difference (maybe even worse), and since I don't want to mess anything up I ended up bringing it back to where I thought it was originally. Do you think there is any "risk" in adjusting the truss myself.

As long as you don't force anything, and it moves freely there really isn't any risk. Many companies ship new guitars with truss wrenches and post instructions on their websites about how to adjust them, so they do intend for it to be done by consumers. Though Martin does suggest that it be done by authorized service centers.

The relief does sound a bit on the low side. Consider trying a 1/4 turn and leaving it for a few hours, then re-assess. If there's no appreciable difference try another 1/4.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by warfrat73

And, incidentally, if you're going to listen to one person on this thread, it should probably be Charles Tauber.

Excellent advice, I'd say.

Here's what he says.

1. it is clear that you don't have a lot of experience in assessing guitars - not enough to determine what needs to be done on this instrument. (You can learn, but this purchase is not likely the best place to do that.)

2. Lacking that experience and knowledge, you have asked for an assessment from those on an internet forum, many of whom also have insufficient knowledge and experience, but lots of opinions. Most-common response by anonymous forum contributors does not replace an expert's hands-on assessment.

3. Taking the guitar to someone who IS experienced and knowledgable for him or her to provide hands-on inspection of the issue is required if you want to have an accurate assessment of the instrument and what needs to be done to it - be it humidification, raise the saddle, setup...

4. As others have pointed out, you aren't intending to buy a "kit" in which the basics are there but you then have to go have it "finished". New guitars shouldn't come in an unplayable state. If they do, you have two options. First is to assume responsibility - and the accompanying hassle - for the "kit" and figure out - yourself or by taking it to a professional - what needs to be done to "finish" it. Second is don't assume that responsibility and return it.

Given the four points above, taken together, in my opinion, your best bet is to return it. Buying a new guitar should be fun, stress-free and no-hassle. It shouldn't come with a lot of unanswered questions: it should just work.

If you chose to buy another guitar - of any make or model - buy it from someone who can supply it ready to play. Experience has shown you that Guitar Centre does not. For those with sufficient experience to "finish" the "kit", Guitar Centre is fine: for those with insufficient experience, go with a "sure-thing" supplier, such as some of the forum sponsors who are known for their excellent service and will not sell a guitar in an unplayable state. Buying from such a supplier might cost you a few bucks more, but should make it fun, stress-free and no-hassle.

The best option is to take someone with you who is very knowledgable about guitars and go play some guitars in-person, preferably at music stores who take more care of their instruments than Guitar Center. That way you know exactly what you are getting - versus buying sight-unseen/mail order.

EDIT:
DO NOT ADJUST THE TRUSS ROD.

The truss rod has one, and only one, purpose. That is to adjust the curvature of the neck. If the curvature of the neck is as it should be, adjusting the truss rod is the wrong thing to do. Period.

If you don't know if the curvature of the neck is "wrong", don't randomly start adjusting "stuff" in the hopes that some random adjustment might miraculously fix whatever unknown issue you think it might have. Just don't.

If your car isn't running right, do you open the hood and just randomly start turning anything that can be turned in the hope that one of the thing-a-majigs you just turned will make the car run better?

[bufflehead]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Buying a new guitar should be fun, stress-free and no-hassle. It shouldn't come with a lot of unanswered questions: it should just work.

That's the best advice I've heard on the entire thread.

You mentioned earlier that when you played the guitar at GC it was noisy and you couldn't really hear it. Lesson learned. That's why I don't purchase guitars at GC. I'd rather pay the extra hundred bucks and get a good listen to any guitar I'm auditioning. If I walk into a guitar shop and there's someone wailing on the drums, I walk right out.

[TBman]

Originally Posted by spiralout

I guess more plainly put: Many people are suggesting that this guitar needs to be taped up into a bag and hydrated for weeks, and that should happen before any tech even works on it. That isn't really feasible for me because I will lose my return window, and if I have work done before hydrating it ......

Weeks?
????

Take it back and look into buying where the guitars are properly maintained. Maybe bring an experienced guitar playing friend along.