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  #1  
Old 01-24-2017, 07:59 PM
Bung Hand Bung Hand is offline
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Default 1958 Levin 335 ... suitable/safe string gauges ?

My first post about my Levins' neck bolts was probably a bit ambitious as regards an answer... I tried to delete.
Anyways, my second question was about suitable string gauges.. I like heavier strings,but don't want to risk damaging the Guitar by going too heavy..
Any suggestions/brands for flat wound or semi-flat wound strings ?
Thanks..
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Old 01-24-2017, 11:37 PM
jomaynor jomaynor is offline
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It's impossible to say with certainty, from your description of the issues with the neck, what is a "suitable and safe" set of strings for your guitar, but a light gauge set, like the 12-52 D'Adarrio Chromes Flat Wound, would seem to be a good place to start.
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Old 01-25-2017, 02:07 AM
Bung Hand Bung Hand is offline
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Thanks Jo,
I've sorted out the neck issues as regards the two socket head screws which attach the neck to the body ... and I'm happy with the results.One of them was full of rust and not allowing a proper 'tighten up' .It's now snug and no gap between the heel and the body.
Now that that's sorted out,I think I need to take it to a proffesional for a set up.
I'll get a set of the D'adarrios you mentioned and see how things go.
Regards from Australia ... Charlie..
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Old 01-25-2017, 08:26 AM
MC5C MC5C is offline
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.012" to .052" is the normal light gauge of string, and it's what I would try first. I find with some archtops that string selection makes a big difference, and I try lighter and heavier gauges to see what the instrument likes. If your Levin is a pure acoustic instrument, I would try bronze wound acoustic strings on it, if it has a pickup and you play amplified then the flat wound chromes are an excellent choice. Since it has a floating adjustable bridge and a truss rod, I would first just string it up, get the bridge in place for correct intonation, check the neck for relief in the ball park, set the action height and play it for a while to see what it needs. I'd only take it to a luthier if you decide it needs more than a basic setup, maybe fret dress, new nut, that kind of thing. An archtop is very user friendly.

On your washer question from your other post, there are two kinds of spring washers. One is a split washer, the normal "lock washer" found under almost every nut. The other is a Belleville washer, which is a solid disc shaped washer with a conical spring aspect. I would probably not use a split washer since they actually work quite poorly, but a belleville washer is quite a good idea and is commonly used with bolt on necks on good quality instruments.
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Brian Evans
Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia.
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Old 01-25-2017, 10:04 PM
Bung Hand Bung Hand is offline
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" I would first just string it up, get the bridge in place for correct intonation, check the neck for relief in the ball park, set the action height and play it for a while to see what it needs "..
I did just that Brian and found that all was good except the Low E string was buzzing on the first fret... I cut a tiny sliver of a toothpick, put it in the slot of the nut and for now ,all is pretty good..Action is nice and I'm enjoying playing it... now to " play it for a while" .... and not take it to the Luthier at this stage .
Re the washers ... when I bolted the neck back on I used a light duty spring washer in conjunction with the original 2mm thick flat washers ... so far so good.
Thanks mate ..
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