#1
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Help Me Grade This Macassar Ebony & Indian Rosewood
Im just curious what some of the luthiers here think about this set of East Indian Rosewood. How woukd you grade it? Which would you use as a back/side set for a 12 fret dreadnought?
Macassar Ebony Indian Rosewood Last edited by Vee_Voe; 05-26-2016 at 07:39 AM. |
#2
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Looks like AAA to me. Love the purple color
EDIT: That was about the rosewood. I don't know what grade to give that ebony. It's beautiful of course, but I wouldn't use it myself because of humidity trouble. But most tonewood dealers don't seem to care about that, so it might get a high grade anyway. Last edited by dekutree64; 05-26-2016 at 08:04 AM. |
#3
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Me too. Could be straighter and tighter but Nice anyway!
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The Electrics check The Acoustics Tom Doerr - Trinity. Flamed Maple under Swiss Tom Doerr - M/D. Braz under Red |
#4
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The ebony is slab sawn with relevant run out toward one end. I would not choose to build with it.
The Indian is rift sawn IMO, though making such a judgement froM a photo has its risks. It is probably not within ten degrees of quarter anywhere, and appears to approach absolute flat sawn within a couple of inches were it that much wider. Clearly sawn for yield rather than quarter and fiber alignment, it is a far cry from what I call AAA. Still, one might build with it in expectation of success. I Rate it low AA. I hope you really wanted to know. |
#5
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Ebony set B--i.e., not acceptable
EIR set AA--decent factory grade
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"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon |
#6
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Can one really judge tone wood's properties without tapping it first?
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Nylon string are softer, but harder to play Alhambra 11P |
#7
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How leicester city win the trophy, why not MAN-U or Chelsea or Man city or the team with may stars? |
#8
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#9
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Also, the ebony has a high percentage of sap wood. I have often seen ebony sapwood which has less than half the integrity of the adjoining heartwood, and it sometimes separates cleanly right on the margin between them.
Yet more; the ebony is only flat in the middle, the rest is rift, or oblique to the rings, and so the inevitable humidity driven expansion/contraction will cause unequal movement which means the shape will distort, or at best harbor asymmetric stresses which are the enemy of tone, which is the product of integrity and relaxation. If that seems off the wall, consider you own guitar playing (or anybody elses) as a supporting example. |
#10
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Quote:
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Yamaha Pacifica 512, Yamaha APX6, Alhambra 7c, Taylor 110 (w/upgraded Taylor gold tuners!), Alhambra 7p, Yamaha CS-40, Samick Corsair Pawn-Shop Special Bass |
#11
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Thank you everyone, these are from a wood pile of a luthier from Vietnam. I'm having him build me a 00 out of sitka/ziricote. I was considering having a second one made if the 00 turns out good. These are a couple sets he sent me photos of to give me an idea of what he has.
This is the set of ziricote I chose for the 00, hopefully I didn't make a mistake |
#12
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Don't get me started on the importance of "tapping", which is misunderstood by nearly everyone IMO. |
#13
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Looking how that EIR was cut, that's one heluva table saw... |
#14
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Tapping
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John Tucson, AZ 2020 Kraut 00, Swiss/Brazilian, build 2018 Eady EG Pro Electric, Redwood/Mahogany 2013 Baranik Meridian, Blue Spruce/Cocobolo, build 2008 Baranik CX, Blue Spruce/African Blackwood 2008 Breedlove A20 Masterclass 12-string, Adi/IRW 2003 Thames classical, Euro/Brazilian Fodera Standard 4 Fretless bass, figured walnut |
#15
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I hope you land a wonderful guitar regarless....
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The Electrics check The Acoustics Tom Doerr - Trinity. Flamed Maple under Swiss Tom Doerr - M/D. Braz under Red |