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Build Thread: Indian Hill Curly Mahogany OO-12 for TAMCO
As my current build starts to wind down I'm quite excited to get started on the next -- my first commission for the Acoustic Music Company! As many of you have probably seen, Trevor has an incredible line-up of luthiers building for him and I consider it quite an honor to join their ranks.
This one is going to be a 12-fret OO with a beautiful set of curly mahogany and engelmann spruce... I won't be in full swing on this build for another week or so, but couldn't wait to at least start a little bit... Thanks for looking, Mike |
#2
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Thats some lovely mahogany, going by the last build thread, this should be a stunning guitar!
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#3
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That is a gorgeous set of mahogany. Anxious to see how this one turns out.
__________________
Circa OM-30/34 (Adi/Mad) | 000-12 (Ger/Maple) | OM-28 (Adi/Brz) | OM-18/21 (Adi/Hog) | OM-42 (Adi/Braz) Fairbanks SJ (Adi/Hog) | Schoenberg/Klepper 000-12c (Adi/Hog) | LeGeyt CLM (Swiss/Amzn) | LeGeyt CLM (Carp/Koa) Brondel A-2 (Carp/Mad) |
#4
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Looking good Mike.
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Trevor. |
#5
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Still slowly starting in on this build. Once I had the sides bent I put them in my laminating contraption...
The mold I use to laminate is the same as the one in the next picture but bolted side by side instead of laid out flat. No need to make two separate molds and guarantees an exact fit! Joining the sides and gluing the end blocks... Thanks for looking, Mike |
#6
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That is a nifty "contraption" as you call it. Looking like you are coming right along. If only I could get things done that fast.... oh well. cant wait to see what else you have planned for this build
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#7
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Thanks Zeke; I was quite happy once I figured out my laminating jig. Quick and clampless! Also, the cross-pieces are curved on the bottom so as they bolts get tightened they press from the middle out and seems to result in really even pressure.
Got the sides tapered yesterday with the back sanded in a 15' bowl and the top in a 25' bowl. Liners installed... We're hosting an in-shop concert tonight so probably not too much work today. Next week I'll be joining the top and back, but not until my new jointer plane arrives (which I'm very excited for!) in a few days. Mike |
#8
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Great ideas, beautiful pics, beautiful woods!
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| Jagtime Millionaire (ragtime, folk, fingerpicking) : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCn3...igKBIVh_CQacdw | Pairdown (acoustic duo, fingerstyle, Brit-folk) : http://www.pairdown.net |
#9
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All week I've been anxiously awaiting the arrival of my new plane and it finally came yesterday afternoon! Very exciting...
With a new plane in hand it was time to join and glue up the back. For joining plates like this, I use a pretty simple wedge system. If you look at the far side of the joining board you can see that the mahogany is only contacting two points -- this makes it really easy to join things that don't have a straight outside edge. Bracing today and hopefully get it glued on tomorrow! Mike |
#10
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Had a busy weekend but managed to get a little bit further with this guitar. First I glued on a laminated center strip and some lengthwise braces...
The outer two braces were pre-arched to a 15' radius and all three were glued to the back in a 15' bowl. I've found that I really like a stiff back and the addition of the outer to braces makes a huge difference in maintaining the arch. My personal theory is that the stiffer the back the better. It is so common to have the back pressed against your body when playing (for most steel string players at least) and that's a pretty big damper on the system. So, it's stiff backs for me and I focus on the top for tone. Here are the cross-grain braces notched and glued over the other braces... I got the back glued onto the sides last night so now it's time to work on the top! Mike |
#11
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I bet that back is super stiff! Is it your impression that the back does more as a surface to "reflect" than to vibrate?
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#12
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Quote:
The top is coming along nicely and should be braced and tuned by the end of today or tomorrow. Here's a progress pic of the spalted maple rosette.... To thickness my tops, I measure how much my top bends under a constant weight and thickness until I reach the desired deflection. Something I have found quite useful is to take the measured deflection and divide out the length of the top. This gives me a ratio that I can then use to compare all of my different shapes and sizes so that they all reach the same relative deflection. This method can also allow compensating for different gauge strings -- if light strings have 85% of the tension, I use 85% of my normal weight. Halfway braced... On a side note, I just posted a video from a Brazilian Rosewood / Adirondack guitar I recently finished. I didn't have a build thread for this one so thought I'd post it here... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAjKbDXyj-k Thanks for looking! Mike |
#13
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Great rosette Mike.
__________________
Trevor. |
#14
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Thanks for posting little tips/explanations here and there in your threads Mike. I enjoy reading them (and seeing all the great pictures of your work).
__________________
Kī hōʻalu and 'ukulele soul |
#15
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Build Thread: Indian Hill Curly Mahogany OO-12 for TAMCO
Your deflection method seems like a great idea. A great way to ensure a more consistent soundboard. You said that you will vary the weight dependent on if a lighter gauge strings will be used. Do you also vary it depending on the wood used. Perhaps cedar uses a certain deflection which differs from say Sitka or redwood?
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