setup at nut vs. saddle Q

[bfloyd6969]

Hello all. I currently have a set of mediums (.013~.056) on a 25.5" scale dread, and I keep this guitar tuned down a whole step to D. The action at the nut is a little high, just a tad, as I notice that when I capo it is slightly easier to fret open position chords. Because of the lower tension being tuned down, should I leave the nut slot height as it is - a bit high, or lower it to match the capo'd feel and perhaps raise the action a little at the saddle? I am a strummer (not too heavy a hand), and the action at the fret 12 low E is at 2.3mm. I feel that if I lower the nut slot height it might cause some open string buzzing due to the down tuned strings. It is a bit difficult to fret open chords but not too bad. I always read that the nut action should feel similar to a capo'd fret feel but I don't if this would be true for down tuned guitars. Please advise. Thanks.

[thebolo]

I would take the nut slot down until the point where it barely wants to buzz a little, then leave it. It may take a little while, but the guitar will feel better to play. Just be careful because a little bit makes a lot of difference, and you can go to far really quickly.

[nacluth]

Yeah, a properly setup guitar should never be hard to play. I would advise a little setup work at the nut, however, I always think setups should be done by a setup specialist, and rarely advise anyone to try it on their own, even to save money. There could be other issues (neck bow, high frets, saddle issues) that only someone with an experienced eye could notice.

But if you think, "It's kinda hard to play this," it needs to be looked at.

[Dan Roberts]

To properly set the nut you should fret each string between the 2 and 3rd fret and then you should have a thousandth or 2 of an inch between the string and the 1st fret. I mean just enough clearance so that you can barely detect movement in the string before you hit the fret. Some folks can play cleanly with it barely touching... like Tony Rice, but one or two more strokes and its buzzing open. Be very careful and don't take it down to touching or you'll be paying someone to make a new saddle or doing a bone dust and superglue fix or something you don't want to do. Especially tuned down to D. If you take it till it buzzes it will buzz, and that's never the idea and depends on attack and such. This is a reasonably fail safe formula and is quantifiable. I had the guys use it at SCGC when I was there and I think a lot of other repairmen use it too.

dan

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by Dan Roberts

To properly set the nut you should fret each string between the 2 and 3rd fret and then you should have a thousandth or 2 of an inch between the string and the 1st fret. I mean just enough clearance so that you can barely detect movement in the string before you hit the fret. Some folks can play cleanly with it barely touching... like Tony Rice, but one or two more strokes and its buzzing open. Be very careful and don't take it down to touching or you'll be paying someone to make a new saddle or doing a bone dust and superglue fix or something you don't want to do. Especially tuned down to D. If you take it till it buzzes it will buzz, and that's never the idea and depends on attack and such. This is a reasonably fail safe formula and is quantifiable. I had the guys use it at SCGC when I was there and I think a lot of other repairmen use it too.

dan

With respect, Dan, this method should be consigned to the dustbin. (or "trashcan" if you prefer ).

First off, you need to make sure that the tops of your frets are level, by using a accurate sanding beam, and using a fret rocker as well, both before sanding the frets, and after the guitar has been strung up.

Secondly, the slots in the nut should be set by finding out what the height of the first fret is above the fretboard. This is done by using an accurate small straight edge (like a fret rocker) plus feeler gauges.

Once you know the height of the first fret, you then set your feeler gauge stack to that height, plus, say, .010" for the bass E, going down to maybe plus .006" for the treble E. Using your nut file or razor saw you file away until the tool hits the feeler gauges, and at that point you are done. Leastways, you are done , measurement wise. You may require further adjustment, but that will be done purely by feel, and with very careful filing .

[thebolo]

You may require further adjustment, but that will be done purely by feel, and with very careful filing .
Today 10:35 AM

Thats what I was trying to say, but every time I post something it ends up sounding stupid or not at all like what I intended to say.

[bfloyd6969]

Thanks for the replies and tips everyone. I'll be taking it in for a setup. It didn't dawn on me that some of the frets could be high. I assumed a new guitar wouldn't have this problem, but I suppose it is only as good as the way it was put together. Thanks again.