#16
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The TS pick is natural wear. That is my pattern for modifying other picks such as Blue Chip.
The process is pretty simple. I use a six-sided nail buffer and just reshape the rounded edge to match what I see in my natural wear pattern. Start with the coarsest cutting surface and work my way down through the finer surfaces on the buffer. You could use a file for the coarse work if you wanted. |
#17
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How do we define "performance improvement?"
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McCawber “We are all bozos on this bus." 1967 D-28 (still on warranty) / 1969 homemade Mastertone / 1977 OME Juggernaught / 2003 D-42 / 2006 HD-28V burst / 2010 Little Martin / 2012 Custom Shop HD-28V / 2014 Taylor 356ce 12 / 2016 Martin D-28 Authentic |
#18
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For me, its more volume, cleaner and more articulate tone, no noise,neutral sonic coloring, and enhanced control.
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#19
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The bevel's effect depends on how you hold the pick. On really thick picks (2-4.0) I think a speed bevel works really well because it reduces the contact area considerably, mimic-ing a thinner pick at point of contact. (Few of us hold the pick so that the wide beveled surface contacts the string; it's the thinner, "front edge" of the bevel that contacts the string.) On thin picks (1.0) I find no benefit in a speed bevel.
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#20
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I wouldn't buy a pick that doesn't have aspeed bevel now hence my fondness for Wegen & BC.
However I've got some old picks large triangle picks that I might have a go at tomorrow - just as an experiment.
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#21
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[QUOTE=Mick's Goat Whiskey Picks;5385524]Another thing too for the folks who think they're not advanced enough to benefit from a bevel.
I'd agree here and defer to Mick's pick wisdom. I finally purchases an expensive pick for mandolin (sorry, Mick, it was from another well know source-I was led astray by my mandolin instructor but I now repent!). This pick came with a speed bevel option that I chose and it makes a significant difference in the speed and tone of my playing. I"m a rudimentary mando player at best so I would encourage all who are considering trying out a speed bevel not to wait until you're 'good enough'. Time's a wastin' !
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"I go for a lotta things that's a little too strong" J.L. Hooker |
#22
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Quote:
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'59 Gibson J-45 "Spot" '21 Gibson LG-2 - 50's Reissue '94 Taylor 710 '18 Martin 000-17E "Willie" ‘23 Taylor AD12e-SB '22 Taylor GTe Blacktop '15 Martin 000X1AE https://pandora.app.link/ysqc6ey22hb |
#23
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Speed Bevels experiment.
Quote:
I got some sanding pads of various roughness (?) and finished off wth Jeweler's Rouge on a rough piece of leather. I modeled the bevels I sought to achieve on a Wegen TF and a BC TAD 40. So, six bevels on each pick! The best result was on the old Dunlop Purple pick, but I didn't achieve the angle or extent of the Wegen bevels. I haven't "road tested any as yet ..... tomorrow.
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#24
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Quote:
Thanks for your post! scott memmer |
#25
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Quote:
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Vancebo Husband of One, Father of Two Worship Leader, Music Teacher Oregon Duck Fan Guitars by: Collings, Bourgeois, Taylor Pickups by: Dazzo Preamps by: Sunnaudio Amps by: Bose (S1) Grateful |
#26
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Speed bevels were originally designed to replicate the wear pattern that develops over time. That can be a subtle "ramp" to the rounded edge.
My thoughts are "go big or go home" so I bevel the full width of the edge. The bevel creates its own attack angle. Here's what it looks like on a 4mm pick. If you look at the right side of the photo, you can see the profile of the original edge at the top of the pick. |
#27
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I've got a 1964 D-28 (BR), an elephant ivory saddle and a TS pick (No bevel)! A triple CITEs offender, "Give me some cover fire, I'm gonna do Wildwood Flower"
Fog |
#28
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I take it you're not on the World Wildlife Fund mailing list?
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#29
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Quote:
sm |