#1
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Your Approach to Getting a Fair Deal
I wondered if anyone would care to share their approach to dealing with retailers and re-sellers in buying a new or used guitar. Has this changed for you as some of the bigger boxes and the internet seem to have limited some of the leeway to negotiate that we used to have. How do you make sure you get an instrument you love at a price you can live with?
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#2
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Very simple.
Just point the shotgun right between their eyes and say "Now, what's your very best deal?" Always worked for me
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Dan Carey (not Crary) A couple of guitars A Merida DG16 Classical Guitar A couple of banjos A Yueqin A Mountain Dulcimer that I built A Hammered Dulcimer that I'm currently building And a fiddle that I built! Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. |
#3
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My scientific and devious method is to only deal with a shop that offers fair pricing on their new and used instruments. Not for everyone, but it works for me.
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#4
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Quote:
Personally,I research the market and weigh what the price is AND THEN decide what it's worth to me,if we can't meet somewhere near what I feel is right for me than I move on. Retailers/resellers also need to get out what they need. |
#5
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For new instruments: Take 20% off manufacturing retail price and start negotiating form there.
For used instruments: 20% off on what they're offering.
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My YouTube Channel Only a life lived for others is a life worth living." - Albert Einstein |
#6
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I have worked with the same retailer for more than 30 years. They want to keep me as a longtime customer and I want to make sure that they make enough profit to keep their business healthy. I don't have to ask them for their best deal; they always offer me a very good deal, but I never try to wrangle the last dime out of them. They know what they need to stay in business.
For Internet purchases, I simply follow the rules, call for pricing when appropriate, look for special discounts, etc. Regards, Glenn |
#7
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Get to know your retailer and be known. Do your homework on what is a fair price. Remember that the retailer is in this to make a living, so give him the ability to do so. Amy Grant's father taught her a saying: "A good deal isn't a good deal unless it is a good deal for everyone involved." Don't be embarrassed to attempt to spend as little as is possible on your end but be reasonable. Don't waste their time doing the math unless you are ready to buy. If their offer isn't low enough, ask them nicely if they can do better. If they ask you what you want, give them the background info so they know you've done your homework and your target isn't unfair. If they can't match your goal, make your decision and act. Thank them nicely whether or not you decide to buy. If at first you don't succeed, try nicely again. If it hangs on the wall a while, it may soften them up a bit.
Above all, ALWAYS BE WILLING TO WALK AWAY. Cheerfully. Bob
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"It is said, 'Go not to the elves for counsel for they will say both no and yes.' " Frodo Baggins to Gildor Inglorion, The Fellowship of the Ring THE MUSICIAN'S ROOM (my website) |
#8
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If you're talking about MSRP, start at 30-40% off, not 20%. Most larger music stores (GC, e.g.) list at 25% off MSRP.
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#9
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I tried to negotiate on a used Epiphone Masterbilt at Guitar Center. Actually, I asked what the best price they could do was, and two or three different salespersons told me that they can't negotiate on prices for used items. Bummer.
So... I waited, and a 15% off coupon showed up. Got my discount.
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My random thoughts. '95 Guild DV52 '94 Guild JV52 '93 Guild F4CE '77 CE100D Can you tell I like Guilds? |
#10
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Be prepared to buy. Dealers can recognize a customer that is just fishing for prices. Make and realistic offer and be prepared to fork over the cash, or credit/debit card, when they accept. No one stays in business by turning down reasonable offers.
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#11
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Keep in mind that a lot of dealers - especially the ones known for good prices and trade-in values - will only mark a guitar up 15% or 20% above what they paid for it, so that 20% you're asking for can very likely be their entire profit.
In other words (mods, these prices are completely hypothetical), if a guitar is priced at $3000, if you're asking for $600 off, it's entirely likely they might have paid $2500 or $2600 for the guitar, so there's no way your offer of $2400 is going to work. If you want the guitar for that cheap, then look for private-party deals where you're not paying retail markup. But, in most cases, there are more risks to buying private party - so it's a bit of a catch 22. |
#12
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As both a buyer and seller for many years I've come to this opinion.
On used instruments, do your homework and know what the price a particular instrument is selling for. Check the forums and e-bay completed sales, you will get a good idea of what is fair. I'm reluctant to just say "what's your best price". The price is on the instrument or in the ad. If you don't think it's fair, or it's more than you can pay, make an offer. In my opinion, if a person is not willing to make an offer then that person is not a serious buyer anyway. Gary
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Taylor 612c (1994) Taylor Custom GC All Mahogany (2010) Eastman E10-OM Yamaha NTX700 Recording King ROS-06 Greg Bennett OM 8CE Yamaha CGX 171 SCF Flamenco Ibanez AG95 DBS Last edited by gary0319; 01-25-2010 at 06:38 AM. |
#13
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General starting points for negotiations:
I'm not actively shopping and I'm not gassing for anything right now. I can wait for a deal if one comes along. |
#14
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- Know your retail prices first and foremost so you can figure out where they are pricewise and how much they may be able to discount.
- Have cash in your pocket if you are serious. You may be able to get a few extra bucks off paying cash over a credit card etc. - If they hit the price you are willing to pay, buy, don't go looking for a better deal. The next time you come in looking for a specific price with that salesperson they will be a lot more likely to give your their best up front as they know you are a serious buyer and not a tire kicker. - Know when to walk away. If the price is their best price and its not close (you should have done your research before you went in), be polite and walk away. No need to tell them you got a better deal somewhere else as it may come back to haunt you when you try to buy something there down the road. - Be nice. Sales folks are much more likely to help you out if you are decent to them. -Dave
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2011 Taylor Custom GS (Adi/Rosewood) 2012 Taylor 814LTD 2008 Fender Telecaster 2010 Kentucky Mandolin Guitars of the past: Alvarez AD60, 2007 Taylor 110ce, 2006 Taylor 710ce, Taylor 2008 GS Fall Ltd, 2010 Taylor 814ce, 2010 Taylor K26ce, 2006 Blueridge BR-361, 2011 GSMini, 1980 Ovation something or othe, Taylor 714cer |
#15
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Hi All:
For me...getting a "fair deal" is less of a priority than getting the "right" guitar! I don't mean that price isn't a factor, but as long as the price is not way out of line relative to the marketplace, I would be much more concerned about not letting "the right one" slip away because I was trying to push for the best price super deal. How many of you or your friends have walked away from a truly awesome guitar...for your needs and wants in looks, feel, playability, and tone..., in the name of waiting for the better deal, only to have it come back to haunt you when you could not find another comparable guitar that was as "perfect" for you as the one you left behind. A deal is NOT a deal if you get less than the "best" for you, just to save some bucks...at least not for me... Very Best Regards duff |