SBAIC Stephen Strahm EROS build

[Stephen Strahm]

Overlay pre-shaped, located, and ready to glue.




Overlay glued using epoxy.

[Stephen Strahm]

Prepping to cut the dovetail neck joint.

[Stephen Strahm]

I decided to add some white(maple) and black(dyed maple) veneers to the bottom of the fingerboard to better match the theme of the body.

[Stephen Strahm]

Dovetails.

[LouieAtienza]

Stephen, are you using different collets on the same template to achieve the dovetail and mortise cuts?

[nashmore]

How do you angle the body and neck in that jig for the neck angle?

[Stephen Strahm]

Originally Posted by LouieAtienza

Stephen, are you using different collets on the same template to achieve the dovetail and mortise cuts?

No collets required. The template slides forward and back so that both cuts can be made. If you look closely you can see the different positions of the template for both the body and neck. This jig is a copy of the one I used at SCGC and the simple design is very easy to use.

[Stephen Strahm]

Originally Posted by nashmore

How do you angle the body and neck in that jig for the neck angle?

I have specific shims for both the body and neck that I made. Once in place the shims locate the body and neck to the proper location to achieve my neck angle. Of course they can be adjusted if need be but I've never had a need for that yet. One could make the top table adjustable but I prefer to keep it fixed and use shims.

[nashmore]

Originally Posted by Stephen Strahm

I have specific shims for both the body and neck that I made. Once in place the shims locate the body and neck to the proper location to achieve my neck angle. Of course they can be adjusted if need be but I've never had a need for that yet. One could make the top table adjustable but I prefer to keep it fixed and use shims.

Thanks for the info Stephen, I've been wanting to make a jig like this.

[Stephen Strahm]

Dialing in the neck fit.

[Tim Porter]

It's been exciting to watch this beautiful guitar take shape. Can I ask a hypothetical question? In your original specs on the first page of the thread you said the saddle spacing would be 2 1/4". If a potential buyer came to you at this point in the guitar's production, could the saddle spacing be 2 5/16"?

Again, just beautiful! Tim

[DanR]

I can't believe I haven't noticed or commented on this thread. That is a very nice looking guitar and it really resonates (pun intended) with my particular tastes and aesthetics...

[Stephen Strahm]

Originally Posted by Tim Porter

It's been exciting to watch this beautiful guitar take shape. Can I ask a hypothetical question? In your original specs on the first page of the thread you said the saddle spacing would be 2 1/4". If a potential buyer came to you at this point in the guitar's production, could the saddle spacing be 2 5/16"?

Again, just beautiful! Tim

Thank you Tim!

Hypothetically yes, but I would need to make a new fingerboard with 2-5/16" spacing at the 14th fret to get the proper set up. The current fingerboard with 2-1/4" spacing at the 14th fret could work but the wider saddle spacing would move the outer E strings too close to the edge of the fingerboard and that would affect playability.

[Stephen Strahm]

Originally Posted by DanR

I can't believe I haven't noticed or commented on this thread. That is a very nice looking guitar and it really resonates (pun intended) with my particular tastes and aesthetics...

Thank you Dan and I'm glad you found me! I have two other build threads here on the AGF(3 total) if your so inclined to have a look. I'm also on Facebook and Instagram under Stephen Strahm Guitars all with similar content.

Warm regards,
Stephen

[Stephen Strahm]

Fingerboard glued.