So I don't have access to a thickness sander

[SnowManSnow]

What is the best way to thickness a soundboard? Planer ?
Any particular type I need to start working with for this job?


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[dekutree64]

I use a cheap block plane with toothed blade (just ground 4 notches into it with a dremel wheel) and card scraper to remove the plane marks. Scrapers don't work that well on softwoods, but still faster than hand sanding in my experience.

[bnjp]

I would probably use a sanding block with about 80 grit and lots of patience. Move to more like 120 when you get close. You'll have to constantly check your thickness. I wouldn't use a planer. it's too aggressive for your sound board. I wouldn't use a plane either unless you're skilled with it and have a very sharp blade. I think sandpaper is your best bet.

Actually, I have a thickness sander and it's kind of a pain on wider stuff like a soundboard. Just really hard to set up level and I've never actually gotten it perfect (Performax 16-32).

[charles Tauber]

I actually enjoy hand planing a guitar top. It is one of the woodworking tasks I most enjoy in guitar making: the "swoooosh" sound of a sharp blade as it makes 20" long, 2" wide curls of wood.

I own a thickness sander but prefer to hand plane tops. Hand sanding to thickness with 80 grit sandpaper on a block would be death warmed over for me: way too laborious and slow for my taste.

[Bruce Sexauer]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

I own a thickness sander but prefer to hand plane tops. Hand sanding to thickness with 80 grit sandpaper on a block would be death warmed over for me: way too laborious and slow for my taste.

I built my first fifty or so instruments with hand tools, using a 9 1/2 plane for nearly all dimensioning. This is where having minimal run out really makes sense; being able to plane in either direction. Really hard and knarly woods can usually be hand planed at 60 degrees to their fiber direction, and then a cabinet scraper removes any tear out. Two big problems with hand sanding to thickness are health because of the dust generated, and the fact that controlling the actual thickness of the plate would be very challenging; sandpaper is very inexact. It in my belief than even thickness in the plates is of crucial importance to both tone and balance, more specifically the distribution of the tone across the spectrum of pitches, which is actually what I call balance.

[SnowManSnow]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

I actually enjoy hand planing a guitar top. It is one of the woodworking tasks I most enjoy in guitar making: the "swoooosh" sound of a sharp blade as it makes 20" long, 2" wide curls of wood.

I own a thickness sander but prefer to hand plane tops. Hand sanding to thickness with 80 grit sandpaper on a block would be death warmed over for me: way too laborious and slow for my taste.

charles, the world of planing is another universe for me. I can see how hand planing would be a great experience. I've turned off all music at the shop and just enjoy some of the sounds (glad i'm not the only one because i was getting worried i was weird haha).

so, what type of plane should i keep my eyes open for? Is there a particular brand where the price point meets a nice function? I know you probably get what you pay for, as with everything else in life. another build is a few months out for me yet, but i want to "rehearse" on some practice tops before I blow up anything decent.

I do realize it would take some time to become proficient at, but I'm good with learning an actual skill.

Thank you for your valued opinions / input in this forum.

[SnowManSnow]

Originally Posted by Bruce Sexauer

I built my first fifty or so instruments with hand tools, using a 9 1/2 plane for nearly all dimensioning. This is where having minimal run out really makes sense; being able to plane in either direction. Really hard and knarly woods can usually be hand planed at 60 degrees to their fiber direction, and then a cabinet scraper removes any tear out. Two big problems with hand sanding to thickness are health because of the dust generated, and the fact that controlling the actual thickness of the plate would be very challenging; sandpaper is very inexact. It in my belief than even thickness in the plates is of crucial importance to both tone and balance, more specifically the distribution of the tone across the spectrum of pitches, which is actually what I call balance.

thank you for these details Bruce. Its always great to hear from experience.

actually I was thinking about what you posted earlier today while making a drive home from work. i wondered how inconsistencies in the soundboard thickness (nothing crazy excessive) would dictate what overtones and such a board would produce. I assume most builders want to create a uniform thickness and then dictate things with bracing and such though, as it would seem much more controllable.

I think I will keep my eyes open for some planes to practice this with, provided I can find the right tool at the right price point.

have a fantastic night!
B

[SnowManSnow]

thoughts on this guy?

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/150...-plane-v3.aspx

[rogthefrog]

Originally Posted by SnowManSnow

charles, the world of planing is another universe for me. I can see how hand planing would be a great experience. I've turned off all music at the shop and just enjoy some of the sounds (glad i'm not the only one because i was getting worried i was weird haha).

so, what type of plane should i keep my eyes open for? Is there a particular brand where the price point meets a nice function? I know you probably get what you pay for, as with everything else in life. another build is a few months out for me yet, but i want to "rehearse" on some practice tops before I blow up anything decent.

I do realize it would take some time to become proficient at, but I'm good with learning an actual skill.

Thank you for your valued opinions / input in this forum.

For what it's worth, as someone who's only done it once, I second the advice about hand planing. The single most important thing is to sharpen your blade extremely well. There are several methods and tutorials on YouTube. What has worked for me is taping patches of sandpaper in increasing grits to a leftover piece of marble slab I had, and wet sanding the blade on the sandpaper. The marble's hard, flat surface gave me a great edge for jointing the plates and thicknessing. I used hand-me-down Craftsman planes from 30+ years ago, and they worked fine after some tuning and a lot of sharpening. You may find some workable ones on Craigslist to try your hand at it on the cheap.

[SnowManSnow]

Well, while i don't want to pay my left arm for a plane, I do want to start with a quality instrument. I remember starting to play guitar.. I borrowed a REALLY bad Yamaha that needed a setup in a HUGE way. Of course I didn't know it. I learned some basics on this guitar and finally got a better instrument and thought WOW...
My skill went up SOO much faster on the instrument that wasn't actually holding my progress back.

Did I need a custom guitar setup perfectly to my left hand individual finger strengths ( I don't even know if thats a thing haha).. no.. but the better instrument allowed for progress to be made

Again, thanks for all the input.. more is appreciated as i peer into this dark lonely corner of uncharted wood ribbon making.

[SnowManSnow]

Block? Bench? Or jack ?
Looks like I have plenty of research to do


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[John Arnold]

Virtually all my planes are flea market or Ebay items.....old Stanley planes (or clones) that I have reworked. It's not difficult, and saves a bunch of money. Most of them were bought for less than $20.

I have thicknessed soundboards with a #102 block plane, but my favorite for that type of work is a #3 smoothing plane that I flattened the sole and reground the blade. It is a joy to use.

[mirwa]

Originally Posted by SnowManSnow

Block? Bench? Or jack ?
Looks like I have plenty of research to do

Half way down the page. I am using my trusted little stanley plane.

http://www.mirwa.com.au/Nasty_2.html


Steve

[LSemmens]

From my woodwork classes as a kid, A number 4 smoothing plane is for smoothing small surfaces. For long, straight edges and surfaces a Number 6 might be better for you. Just remember to ensure that it is sharper than a razor blade and you'll be right. Practice sharpening and planing on scrap timber first. I'm sure there are many youtube instructions on the best way to sharpen and set you blades. If need be, I can look them up for you.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by SnowManSnow

so, what type of plane should i keep my eyes open for? Is there a particular brand where the price point meets a nice function? I know you probably get what you pay for, as with everything else in life.

Assuming a plane is made with sufficiently good steel - some aren't, the steel is too soft - it is a trade-off between paying someone else for their labor and doing the labor yourself. At the lower price ranges, you can expect to do a fair bit of "fettling" to get a new plane to function well. At the higher end of the price range, you can expect most of that fettling is done for you.

As John points out, if you are willing - and have the know-how - you can purchase suitable planes inexpensively and put in the labor to fettle them yourself, bring them up to good working condition.

The size and type of plane is largely personal preference, as you see in the replies you've received. In general, a 4-1/2 is a typical smoothing plane and what I often use for guitar tops, backs and sides. A larger, or smaller, plane will also work just fine. I prefer one that is large enough to get both hands into the action: for me, a 6" or so block plane is too small for that.

Originally Posted by SnowManSnow

thoughts on this guy?

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/150...-plane-v3.aspx

Part of my handtool education comes from Rob Cosman (robcosman.com). He used to be the Canadian sales rep for Lie-Nielson tools. Later, he was the consultant for the Woodriver planes, making them what they are today. Woodriver planes are very similar in quality to Lie-Nielson, though one is made in China, the other the U.S., and their prices reflect that. I've used both and both are good tools.

Originally Posted by SnowManSnow

I assume most builders want to create a uniform thickness and then dictate things with bracing and such though, as it would seem much more controllable.

Most of the builders I know purposely do not make guitar tops of uniform thickness. Many purposely thin the edges more than the centers. My reason for doing so is to decrease stiffness around the edges of the top (and back).

I thickness to within .1 mm, sufficiently controllable for what I do. Then, after the top is braced and glued to the sides, I thin the edges further based upon "feel" and deflection.

It works for me, but there are many ways to end up with a desired result. That is, those who prefer a uniform thickness aren't "wrong".


In this video, I'm planing a zircote back using a Lie-Nielsen bevel-up jack plane. A 4-1/2 bevel-down will work just as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maJCqbtN-6I