#16
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Like Rick, I have also refretted any Martin I have owned with higher wire. I just recently acquired a OOO-28 Eric Clapton signature model, and was pleasantly surprised to discover that they had installed .043" fretwire on it. Whether Martin are now doing this across the entire range, or just on the Clapton signature models, I have no idea. |
#17
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Mine are currently tall at .050". I don't have an opinion regarding hammer-on or pull-off, though I employ both. I dislike 'the speedbump effect' when sliding up the neck a full tone of more. Bump-bump-bump. Sometimes it causes me to overshoot or undershoot the landing-zone fret. I try to make sure I'm not applying too much fretting pressure in the slide, but it still causes me trouble. With regard to hammering on and pulling off, James Taylor has built his reputation on them, so I would assume (and only assume) his preferred fret spec (.084" wide x .040" tall) would be optimal... Last edited by BothHands; 08-16-2015 at 05:40 PM. |
#18
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NEAT. With regard to fretwire height: Assume .043" fret height, followed by a professional fret leveling and crowing. Typically, how much fret height have I lost in the process? |
#19
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You're asking the wrong person about the dimensions of Martin fret wire. I chose the taller wire so I could have just enough extra height primarily for easier bending. I bend multiple strings at a time for pedal-steel riffs on a regular basis.
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Rick Ruskin Lion Dog Music - Seattle WA |
#20
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Ah, I see. I've been reading up on this, and easier string bends is often cited as one advantage of taller frets.
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#21
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That of course is assuming that the fret height is actually as advertised, and also the same height throughout the coil, which is not always the case. It's never higher IME but it can be lower by a thou or so. As far as my Martin is concerned, I would guess that the frets started life at .045" high, and after PLEKking ended up at .043". |
#22
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Martin is now using 0.080" x 0.043" on most guitars. That is a fairly recent change.
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#23
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Minimum fret size on a guitar I have owned over the last few years was on my Collings guitars (0.043 X 0.080). That is ok but I prefer bigger frets.
I have had all my guitars refretted to stainless steel or EVO gold and in larger sizes. My favorite size is 0.047 X 0.108. Wider wire feels good under the fingers but is more likely to intonate incorrectly when worn down, however that is not an issue with the harder wire which lasts and lasts. With taller wire your fingertips are dancing on the frets without contacting the fretboard itself. Less pressure is required for a clean sound, and pull-offs and bends are easier. YMMV
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Derek Coombs Youtube -> Website -> Music -> Tabs Guitars by Mark Blanchard, Albert&Mueller, Paul Woolson, Collings, Composite Acoustics, and Derek Coombs "Reality is that which when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away." Woods hands pick by eye and ear
Made to one with pride and love To be that we hold so dear A voice from heavens above |
#24
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Who makes the EVO fretwire that you use? And is that .047 x .108" EVO or SS? Quote:
I think that's an important point. With setup making such a big difference in playing ease, tone, etc. I'd like to keep that perfected geometry intact for as long as possible. Do luthiers generally install EVO fretwire for the same price as standard nickel-silver? Last edited by BothHands; 08-18-2015 at 03:56 PM. |
#25
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Easier to play in the sense that you don't waste energy pressing down on the actual fretboard, just the frets. Regarding clean barres , on low fretwire you are already pressed down on the fretboard while there is still a little gap at the crease(s) of your finger joint(s) increasing a chance of buzzing on the third or fourth string (for me anyway - your hands many vary). Full barres up beyond the eighth fret or so are crowded and a bear to play for most people on an acoustic guitar. Tall frets may feel a bit knobby but I actually like the little bit of extra tactile feedback as to where I am on the fretboard. Just lighten up the pressure use doing note fretting and on slides.
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Derek Coombs Youtube -> Website -> Music -> Tabs Guitars by Mark Blanchard, Albert&Mueller, Paul Woolson, Collings, Composite Acoustics, and Derek Coombs "Reality is that which when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away." Woods hands pick by eye and ear
Made to one with pride and love To be that we hold so dear A voice from heavens above |
#26
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I think EVO is a very good alternative. Thanks for clarification on your EVO fretwire. Quote:
So it's not just me. Thanks for good, helpful information, Derek. |
#27
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__________________
Derek Coombs Youtube -> Website -> Music -> Tabs Guitars by Mark Blanchard, Albert&Mueller, Paul Woolson, Collings, Composite Acoustics, and Derek Coombs "Reality is that which when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away." Woods hands pick by eye and ear
Made to one with pride and love To be that we hold so dear A voice from heavens above |
#28
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Sold this guitar on Nov 19, 2019 - TAN LINES CHANGED in the interim
OP here. Just a heads-up, long after the fact.
Two days ago, Friday, I sold the guitar that is the basis of this experiment. I hadn't looked at it much in the interim; it spent most days in its case. I'm pretty careful to keep my instruments humidified, but this one may have gotten a bit dry as I moved from eastern Nebraska to Utah, which is arid/semi-arid. I mention humidity only because a lack thereof might be a factor in what happened. During the experiment I brought the much-lighter wood tone under-pick-guard area to almost exactly the same golden tone as the rest of the spruce top. Years later (in the past few days) careful inspection under excellent lighting shows the under-pick-guard area to have shifted to a slightly darker/deeper tone than the rest of the spruce top. Is it due to the wood, or the poly spray-on varnish? Did a possible short-term lack of humidity affect either the wood color or the varnish color? I don't know, but I thought I should present the information for the benefit of anyone trying this. Today is December 22, so Merry Christmas! Tom |