I Would Like to Learn How To Fix this - Page 3

YamaYairi · #31 08-14-2015, 05:59 AM

From my experience I would expect you will get some glue squeezing out the joint. For that reason, I would not put the tape on before closing the joint, because it will make it difficult to wipe off the excess glue. Put the glue in, push the top down, and wipe off all the glue you can with a damp (not wet) rag. Then apply the tape. If you are concerned about the glue setting up before you can get all the tape on, put a weight on the top to hold it down while you apply the tape.

charles Tauber · #32 08-14-2015, 06:24 AM

For this task, I advise against using a damp rag to clean glue squeeze-out: tape won't adhere well to a damp surface.

I advise against placing a weight on the top to close the joint while applying the tape. Doing so makes it difficult to manipulate the guitar while applying the tape. Part of the success of the method is the use of the thumb and fingers to grasp the top and back to close the joint while applying each piece of tape. While doing so, the guitar is held in whatever position that best facilitates squeezing top and back while applying the tape. That position changes as you traverse the joint to which you are applying the tape. Putting a weight on the top will make that more difficult: gravity will insist on having the guitar stay on its back, else the weight will fall off the top.

The reason that I suggested this method is that it is quick, easy, low-tech and accessible for a novice: glue, tape and a rag. Don't over-complicate it.

redir · #33 08-14-2015, 06:35 AM

You can also double up on the masking tape to make it stronger.

charles Tauber · #34 08-14-2015, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redir

You can also double up on the masking tape to make it stronger.

Rodger already mentioned that.

redir · #35 08-14-2015, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Rodger already mentioned that.

Well then you can triple up on it too

jcee · #36 08-14-2015, 09:05 PM

well its all glued and taped finally as I just done it

it is Saturday afternoon here. I will leave it to say Monday evening and take the tape off then and restring it. It is winter here so it might take longer to set as I don't have the air con on all the time.

I took a few photos and videos, I will post them once its all finished.

charles Tauber · #37 08-14-2015, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcee

it is Saturday afternoon here.

Remove the tape Sunday morning and clean-up the remaining glue squeeze-out. With PVA glues, overnight is MORE than sufficient given the small gluing area involved. In many cases with small gluing surface areas and PVA or aliphatic resin glues, one hour is sufficient clamping time. Full strength is reached in 24 hours. Stressing of the joint (e.g. stringing a guitar) is best left until full strength is reached.

The above does not apply to hide or fish glues that should be clamped considerably longer (e.g. 12 hours).

murrmac123 · #38 08-15-2015, 02:45 AM

Judging from the gluing advice, everybody seem to be under the misapprehension that this guitar is made of wood.

jcee · #39 08-15-2015, 11:17 PM

well I pulled the tape off and it looks to be OK I think. I wiped it and then put new strings on. It tuned up well and hold the tuning which is a good sign. It sounds good but the string height is quite high from the middle to the end of the frets. I did a test by putting my fingers at the 1st and last fret and there looked to be a fair bit more space than the recommended 2 x biz cards. The bridge saddle looks to be quite high, maybe I can file it down? The truss rod will need a special tool as I found here.

thanks a lot to all the tips on fixing the top and side.

YamaYairi · #40 08-16-2015, 06:28 AM

Go to frets.com and look up how to set up a guitar. The order is:
1. Set the neck relief with the truss rod.
2. Set the nut action.
3. Set the saddle height.

dhalbert · #41 08-16-2015, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcee

The truss rod will need a special tool as I found here.

It's a 5mm hex key wrench. This one from Masters might be long enough, and it has a ball end, which might make things easier. (Bunning's doesn't seem to have a suitable one, but you can probably find something suitable locally as well - maybe in an auto parts store.) See this discussion on the UMGF.

To make it easier to grab and turn a hex key wrench when it's used the long way, I use a socket and matching handle. The picture below shows what I mean (using a shorter hex key as an example). It fits between the strings.

Disclaimer: I have no direct experience with Martins and truss rod wrenches for them.

jcee · #42 08-17-2015, 02:18 AM

I have been reading up today on truss rod and neck adjustment at frets.com and a few other places. I'm starting to understand it better. After measuring and researching I think it does need to tighten the truss rod first as it looks to have too much bow and had a noticeable gap when following the instructions on how to measure.

I have some hex keys but not the right size. Masters is a bit out of the way and I would need to order online. My best bet is Bunnings and I did find that they have this one http://www.bunnings.com.au/craftrigh...y-set_p6120123

I think that is saying it is 10mm long and Martin apparently recommend 4.5 inches or 114.3 millimetres so it looks to fall short. If not are any of these suitable http://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range...-and-torx-keys

OK wait, I found one on Ebay which looks to be the right length and size but not a ball end if that matters? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Long-CRV-...item4ad4c4fad9

YamaYairi · #43 08-17-2015, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dhalbert

It's a 5mm hex key wrench. This one from Masters might be long enough, and it has a ball end, which might make things easier. (Bunning's doesn't seem to have a suitable one, but you can probably find something suitable locally as well - maybe in an auto parts store.) See this discussion on the UMGF.

To make it easier to grab and turn a hex key wrench when it's used the long way, I use a socket and matching handle. The picture below shows what I mean (using a shorter hex key as an example). It fits between the strings.

Disclaimer: I have no direct experience with Martins and truss rod wrenches for them.

Another way to make a "handle" to turn an Allen wrench is to cut a piece of steel gas line for a car and slip that over the end of the wrench.

dhalbert · #44 08-17-2015, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcee

If not are any of these suitable http://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range...-and-torx-keys

The Craftright set might work. You could find it in the store and just measure it, assuming it's in stock.

(I feel a bit strange shopping from 16,000km away.)

The UMGF thread I linked to above said the ball-end makes it easier to find the socket.