What is proper fit of bridge pins?

[Woodde]

I noticed on my Epiphone Dove the other day, that the bridge pins were going in rather far, actually the flange under the ball was going into the bridge on half the pins. I assumed that since this guitar is over 10 years old that it is time to replace them. So I ordered a nice set of bone pins from Bob Colosi, and requested them a little bigger in diameter then my old ones, ( I mailed them to him for comparison) Bob informed me that these pins should be able to be sanded down to fit correctly.

My question is, What should they look like if they are fitted correctly? The flange below the ball on the pin should be roughly how much above the top of the bridge? Also What grit sand paper do you use for sanding these down? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

[Luke_]

Talked to Bob today about his pins being a little bigger to fit a worn hole in my experiences. He suggested 400 grit sand paper to adjust pin diameter

[John Arnold]

I like for the collar to be flush with the bridge. Most of the time, I ream the holes with a tapered reamer to fit the pins. If I do sand pins, it is to make them all the same size. For that, I use 220 grit.

[Arthur Blake]

A word of caution on sanding bridge pins to fit. Bone pins can be more stable than wood, but if you happen to install ebony bridge pins they can change size after fitting.
Read a thread about Martin leaving bridge pins somewhat high to allow the owner to adjust afterward, and sanded custom ebony bridge pins in an ebony bridge to fit with the collar slightly elevated.
Used a flat piece of wood with 180 grit stapled at the ends to give a flat working surface and leave a bit of texture for better grip.
Sanding the pins directly seemed to give no progress without the sanding block on a work surface.
To allow the bridge pins to acclimate to humidity and temperature gradually, sanded them for final adjustment at the next string change.
One pin dropped in too low. They're inexpensive, plus practice makes perfect, so I ordered a second set and carefully re fitted the one low pin perfectly. It rapidly sank down to the level of the collar.
Plus while the other pins had been left for final adjustment, after several months they all seemed to find their own level and require no further adjustment.
This guitar is always stored in a humidity controlled hard shell case.
These things seem to have a mind of their own and continue to move, although slowly, over time.

[Misty44]

As John said, flush on the collar, which is one reason pins have them.

Read a thread about Martin leaving bridge pins somewhat high to allow the owner to adjust afterward

I still can't buy into Martin's rationale for leaving pins high - or why they haven't tapered the holes for 30 years: it's a cost-cutting decision, not an aftermarket customer option - who wants to buy a new guitar and take it home only to have to get the sandpaper out and fiddle with pins and their holes? (Exception: the Authentic line, those are still done correctly before shipping, bridges slotted too.)

[hermit]

Originally Posted by Misty44

As John said, flush on the collar, which is one reason pins have them.



I still can't buy into Martin's rationale for leaving pins high - or why they haven't tapered the holes for 30 years: it's a cost-cutting decision, not an aftermarket customer option - who wants to buy a new guitar and take it home only to have to get the sandpaper out and fiddle with pins and their holes? (Exception: the Authentic line, those are still done correctly before shipping, bridges slotted too.)

I have high pins on my low end Martin. I think the wood will wear with string changes so I'm not that concerned. They work as is.

[Ned Milburn]

To add some more info...

The bridge pins should fit deeply enough to snug the ball end of the string underneath and against the bridge plate. They should be high enough so that they are easy to remove for string changes. If they are sitting too high, it can cause discomfort playing when using an aggressive palm-mute style strum. Also, if they are sitting too high, it is likely that they are wedging into place, rather than sliding into place, which again means more difficulty during removal for string changes. Hence, John's answer is the goal for bridge pin fitting.

[John Arnold]

I think the wood will wear with string changes

That has not been my experience. Maybe after 20 years of changing strings twice a week.....maybe.
IMHO, high bridge pins only invite pushing them in too tight, which will increase the chance of splitting the bridge between the pin holes.

[Woodde]

Thanks all, that was just the kind of information I was seeking. I appreciate you all taking the time, to answer my questions and helping me along the way. This kind of response it what keeps this forum so awesome. Guitarist helping guitarist!

Like the one on the left.

[alcher]

Can anyone enlighten me on the bridge sizes for the Taylor GS Mini-E RW ?


I am guessing that they are 3 degrees shank pins vs 5 degrees but cannot be sure...do not want to end up buying the wrong size...

Can anyone of the gurus here help please ?

[Outhouse]

Originally Posted by alcher

Can anyone enlighten me on the bridge sizes for the Taylor GS Mini-E RW ?


I am guessing that they are 3 degrees shank pins vs 5 degrees but cannot be sure...do not want to end up buying the wrong size...

Can anyone of the gurus here help please ?

https://www.taylorguitars.com/taylorware/bridge-pins

Unless someone owns that guitar and done the research properly, you might get more guesses then credible answers. There are many sizes often that are different from the same company. Many are 3 degree

There are measurements of 5 degree pins if you search 5 degree bridge pins.

By the measurement you can look at your pin and determine the angle provided you have a caliper to measure your pins exact size.


I have Yamaha pins and there it little to nothing out there on the sizes. I found out they were 5 degree and ordered a reamer to size my new holes correctly after replacing a bridge plate.


I kept my pins collar about a business card above the bridge. Yamaha is another company that rides the pins higher from the factory.


http://www.custominlay.com/Bridge_Pin_Sizing_Info.html

[Trillian]

Originally Posted by alcher

Can anyone enlighten me on the bridge sizes for the Taylor GS Mini-E RW ?


I am guessing that they are 3 degrees shank pins vs 5 degrees but cannot be sure...do not want to end up buying the wrong size...

Can anyone of the gurus here help please ?

If you're unsure I'd think it's best to measure. I just put a bone saddle and pins from Bob into my Epiphone, and when measuring and looking I noticed that Taylor pins are pretty much universally sized, which makes sense given their philosophy. And yes they were 3 degree pins, I forget the diameter under the skirt.

By the way I was looking at saddles and pins from lots of places, but decided to go with Bob because he'll make sure you get 'the right stuff', and he surely did that .

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by Misty44

As John said, flush on the collar, which is one reason pins have them.



I still can't buy into Martin's rationale for leaving pins high - or why they haven't tapered the holes for 30 years: it's a cost-cutting decision, not an aftermarket customer option - who wants to buy a new guitar and take it home only to have to get the sandpaper out and fiddle with pins and their holes? (Exception: the Authentic line, those are still done correctly before shipping, bridges slotted too.)

Agreed, and agreed.

My biggest gripe about Martin guitars is the poor fit of their bridge pins. There is no good excuse for it.

[alcher]

Thanks all.. I will find a way to measure the pins. I read somewhere in this forum that Martin pins fit well into the Taylor GS Mini.

Will do some more research before committing any purchase