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Westerly Guild F50...Need Help Quickly
So I played a '79 F50 today in good shape cosmetically, the frets are playable (big honkin' jumbo frets), the neck is straight, and I pushed and tapped - didn't hear any loose braces. The guit sounded pretty darn good (me likey) but volume was a bit lacking because:
1) Had low tension silk and steel light gauge strings, because: 2) It needs a neck reset. Not much saddle at all and the action is already "highish" with the low tension strings. 3) The bridge is lifting. I'd like to have the guitar but I'm not sure what a neck reset on an older Guild would cost plus the bridge reglued at the same time. Anyone have any thought as to potential costs and also can recommend a luthier in the AZ area? I'm going to need to offer a price today. Tks much |
#2
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Good suggestion, I'd forgotten about them. Thank you!
Edit: Looks like I have to wait for a moderator over there to approve my posting, because I just registered. Arrgh. So while I wait any help is appreciated, tks. Last edited by sixx; 07-26-2017 at 12:17 PM. |
#3
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The bridge lifting isn't a huge issue and I would fix that first. The best option would be to ask the seller if you can take the guitar to a luthier and get a fair quote on what is needed. Then subtract that price from the fair market value of the guitar. So, if the repair will cost $500 and fair market value is $1500, offer $1000.
I own an F50R and it's a great guitar. Even with PB strings it isn't as loud as my dreads. But it has a great tone. A word of advice... Many of these larger bodied guitars actually sound better with light gauge strings.
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#4
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Quote:
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#5
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Okay, let's look at this from a financial perspective. F50R prices vary wildly but $1,300 seems to be a good starting point. It's what I paid for mine. A neck reset with a bridge reglue probably will be in the $600 ballpark. So, I'd say $700 for that guitar would be reasonable.
If it were me, I'd find a guitar of the same type that doesn't need work, and leave the fixer-upper alone. These guitars are fairly consistent and the chances are that it would sound as good as the one you played.
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#6
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BoneDigger is right on with his suggestion.
The guitar will be worth about $1500.00 after the work is done. I had a JF-55 for a while but sold it because it wasn't as loud as I needed it to be. A jumbo guitar will normally be more balanced than a dred but not as loud.
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Happiness Is A New Set Of Strings L-20A |
#7
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Thanks much gents.
This guitar is extremely balanced to my ear. I suppose I was expecting more bass, but the bass was in line with the rest of the strings. The sound is sticking with me - I liked it alot. |
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OK, what the hell, go ahead and low-ball him ! (he shoulda looked after it better.) |
#9
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Cost, you will have to get a quote. Guilds tend to cost more than Martins because they are usually finished over the neck join.
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Larrivee OM-03RE; O-01 Martin D-35; Guild F-212; Tacoma Roadking Breedlove American Series C20/SR Rainsong SFTA-FLE; WS3000; CH-PA Taylor GA3-12, Guild F-212 https://markhorning.bandcamp.com/music |
#10
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Bought it.
Pics to come after I clean it up some and restring it. |
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I bought an older Guild that had had a neck reset. During the process, the last 1" or so of the heel broke off. However, it was nicely repaired, couldn't hardly see it. It was a really nice guitar, played well and sounded great.
The guitar tech I use told me that it is difficult to reset the neck on older Guilds because they used nautical glue instead of hide glue, and the nautical glue doesn't soften up as easily when steamed. It was his opinion that that was the reason the heel on my guitar had broken off. Makes sense to me. Just FWIW, and good luck with your new purchase. A Westerly F-50 is worth spending some money on.
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2002 Martin OM-18V 2012 Collings CJ Mh SS SB 2013 Taylor 516 Custom |
#12
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Guild F50
I thought I posted this, but not sure where it went.
You might call Acoustic Vibes in Tempe. Considering the caliber of their inventory I'd be surprised if they didn't have the name of a good luthier or two for you. |
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Tks much. I spoke to 2 luthiers yesterday. Billy at B&D Guitar Repair and Bronson at Bronson Guitar Works. Both dudes seemed very knowledgeable and competent. Long wait times but I assume that's because they're good.
Anyone have experience with these 2 guys? I'll look up the other suggestions as well. When I went to check it out again, I found that I'd overstated in my head how bad the need for a reset is. It's def gonna need one, but seems fine now. The bridge needs attention but I was playing it last night fine once I got it home. That's the other thing...I must have been in a dead acoustic spot yesterday when I was trying it out because here at home in my "guitar space", this thing sounds loud and full...just really super nice to the point that my spouse commented on it, which never happens. And it still has the old strings on it. So while I fell in love with the tone yesterday I'm pleasantly surprised at the loudness and response once it's home in my normal playing environment. |
#14
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"The guitar tech I use told me that it is difficult to reset the neck on older Guilds because they used nautical glue instead of hide glue, and the nautical glue doesn't soften up as easily when steamed."
Interesting. Anyone else heard of this? I have no clue. FWIW the question is being asked on the guild forum too because now I'm worried. Always good to jump into the fire with both feet BEFORE you worry about getting burned, huh? Oy vey. Btw, I'll bet that D18VS in your sig sounds glorious. Would love one. |
#15
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Two things:
1. I would resist the temptation to play a guitar with a lifting bridge at full string tension, until the bridge has been solidly reglued. You run the risk of having the bridge tear off, taking some of the top with it. 2. Guild never used "nautical" glue for setting a neck. Hot hide glue was used. Any guitar tech with the appropriate tools and skills should be able to steam one off. What makes Guilds a little different when performing a neck reset is that the neck and body were assembled before finishing, and the lacquer has to be scored on the neck joint and fretboard extension in order to cleanly remove the neck. After the neck reset, the neck joint often requires careful touch-up with lacquer.
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Neal A few nice ones, a few beaters, and a few I should probably sell... |