#46
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Jeff, I hate to say this, but I hate even more to see you go wrong after all your good work, so here it is: the best thing you could do right now is plane off those braces and bridge plate and start over on bracing the top. Take a good look at what a traditional X bracing system looks like, and learn how to make it. Reinvent the guitar later.
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"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon Last edited by Howard Klepper; 09-09-2012 at 03:15 PM. |
#47
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This thread is great.
I love Jeff's incredibly bold and creative decision. It's the kind of crazy thing I would do. And I love Howard's post, too. Can't wait to see the outcome on this. |
#48
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Quote:
By the way the next one will be a parlor sized guitar with sapele back and sides with either sinker redwood (i love the look and sound) or the traditional spruce route (probably carpathian) what do you guys think? |
#49
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+1 to that haha i sure hope it holds up once you string it up! I personally think you should make a video of that process so we can all go through the process with you because it will be a nerve racking one! I really cant wait to see what happens. It will be very interesting to say the least.
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#50
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Quote:
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Brad |
#51
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#52
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amateur build start! 90% hand built!!
Yes yes I remember now! Well hopefully it will sound good then!!!
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#53
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got the box all closed up. before i sealed it up i got a spray can of shellac and gave the inside 1 coat of shellac to help retard humidity change. I also started and have almost finished my binding jig, i copied the model that chris paulick has on youtube. well on to the good stuff, enjoy
top being glued on in my go bar deck heres a couple of the top with the single shellac coat and the notches for the back braces already done (by hand ) heres the back getting the same treatment! Last edited by Ffejguitars; 09-16-2012 at 04:21 PM. |
#54
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heres the back, you can't see it now but when i cut the back out before the braces went on i didn't do a very good job of tracing it out so i had to put the back bookmatch seam in slightly crooked so it would fit properly when i dry fitted the neck it was very noticable oh well it will serve as a reminder for all of my future guitars
i thought i would like the soundhole being open right to the sides but i don't like it as much as i thought. for the future i will leave a strip of soundboard to cover the kerfing. also the soundhole is a little small i will be making it slight bigger but i like the shape, i think i will keep the shape for my future models Last edited by Ffejguitars; 09-16-2012 at 04:22 PM. |
#55
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Beautiful woodchoice and nice progress! I'm very much a fan of redwood, in all it's variations..
one thing that puzzles me about the soundhole is the fact you cut all the way to the kerfing.. Am I the only one who thinks this? How are you going to solve this? Your binding/purfling won't be this wide, is it? Cheers, Richie
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Eastman AC412 (OM) Hohner Essential Pro EP1-SP (parlor) Yamaha G230 (classical) Fender Gemini II (dread) Yamaki YW-20 (dread) OM Curly Redwood/Ziricote (Buildthread, Dutch) GAS in denial: I won't spend my hard-earned money on something I don't need! |
#56
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#57
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here's some more pics!
home made binding jig next couple of days the binding will go on!! i can't wait. the binding jig worked great! i have decided to add a cocobolo purfling strip on all sides of the guitar with a green maple strip lining both sides of it and also lining the bottom edge of the claro walnut binding. |
#58
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sweet headstock! nice build overall, im anxious to see how you clean up the soundhole.
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#59
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yeah me too, lol. I know what i want to do but i am still trying to figure out the best way to go about it.
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#60
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yeah me too, lol. I know what i want to do but i am still trying to figure out the best way to go about it.
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