Picks and Bevels

[vindibona1]

Originally Posted by HHP

Both sides are beveled. First, you bevel the edge of the pick that will contact the string on a downstroke. Then, you do the same to the edge that will strike a string first on an upstroke.

When finished, it should look like this in cross section



The edge should be more like a chisel blade than a knife. Finished, it looks like this

HHP... I noted your information when we were discussing the John Pearse picks. I'm very literal in my thinking so was a little confused as you only showed one side of the pick (I'll call it the near side). So on the "near" side as shown you beveled the TOP of the pick as we see it. on the "far side) unseen, do you bevel the top or the bottom. In other words, are the bevels like airplane wings shaped the same on tops and bottoms of right and left, or to you shave the top on the near and the bottom of the far? Sorry for the silly question, but in my mind it wasn't totally clear. FWIW on my JP pick I assumed the bevel was topside on both near and far and that's what I did.

Please clarify if you will for those of us who need all things spelled. I think I did it wrong!

[Goat Mick]

Originally Posted by Silly Moustache

Had a go at D'andrea Proplec 1.5 m/m and it worked out OK. Tried another one this morning using a Dremel with a sanding disc ....the pick edge melted!



Went online to get some more - NONE available in the UK right now.

Some folks get a lot more involved with their beveling than I do. I can get the results I like in less than three minutes by running the edges to be beveled on coarse sandpaper to cut the right angle and then polishing the edge with 1500 grit sandpaper. After a couple of hours playing time it's smooth as silk.

[HHP]

Originally Posted by vindibona1

HHP... I noted your information when we were discussing the John Pearse picks. I'm very literal in my thinking so was a little confused as you only showed one side of the pick (I'll call it the near side). So on the "near" side as shown you beveled the TOP of the pick as we see it. on the "far side) unseen, do you bevel the top or the bottom. In other words, are the bevels like airplane wings shaped the same on tops and bottoms of right and left, or to you shave the top on the near and the bottom of the far? Sorry for the silly question, but in my mind it wasn't totally clear. FWIW on my JP pick I assumed the bevel was topside on both near and far and that's what I did.

Please clarify if you will for those of us who need all things spelled. I think I did it wrong!

On a John Pearse pick, you'll generally hold it with the thumb depression on top. You bevel both edges, the leading edge and the trailing edge,but on the opposite sides of the pick. In playing position, the leading edge bevel faces down and the trailing edge bevel faces up.

I bevel the full edge, making about a 45 degree ramp between the pick surfaces don't both bevels are the same.

You can search the forum for "how to speed bevel a pick" that I posted a few years ago. The pictures are now blocked but the description might give you a more step by step guide.

[Wolfram]

Some good photos from HHP. It's difficult (with my meagre photography skills at least) to get a good shot of the point, but this one shows the bevels meeting at the point of one of my tungsten carbide picks.



In terms of thickness, I've found the bevel really comes into its own over about 1.4mm - which is where my picks currently start. They still work fine on thinner picks, but I'm not convinced they add much over other (often simpler) ways of finishing the edges.

Cheers,
David

[SpiderTrap]

Polish doesnt sound right . I never used a Beveled pick . just Received 12 GREEN 88 Tortex Regulars , Practiced with it quite a while and thought , WHATS THAT WEIRD Sound it's making on the stings. I thought they were TRASH . Took out an old Medium FILE , and a jewelers eye piece and rubbed about 15 minutes of both edges and the tip , making it like knife, not understanding which Edge Hits the Strings first, in my mind BOTH Sides do >
Looked very well done thru the eyeglass X10 , played and sounded so good , I Gotta fix em all now . played like a dream . I've got some slightly heavier ones on the way , WHAT A Tremendous difference in easyness to play and Sweeter sound . WOW . playtime

[HHP]

Originally Posted by SpiderTrap

Polish doesnt sound right . I never used a Beveled pick . just Received 12 GREEN 88 Tortex Regulars , Practiced with it quite a while and thought , WHATS THAT WEIRD Sound it's making on the stings. I thought they were TRASH . Took out an old Medium FILE , and a jewelers eye piece and rubbed about 15 minutes of both edges and the tip , making it like knife, not understanding which Edge Hits the Strings first, in my mind BOTH Sides do >
Looked very well done thru the eyeglass X10 , played and sounded so good , I Gotta fix em all now . played like a dream . I've got some slightly heavier ones on the way , WHAT A Tremendous difference in easyness to play and Sweeter sound . WOW . playtime

It is a very dramatic change. The thicker the pick, the more impact it has.

Here's thread going over how to do it.

http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/f...d.php?t=359386

[stringjunky]

Originally Posted by Wolfram Slides

Some good photos from HHP. It's difficult (with my meagre photography skills at least) to get a good shot of the point, but this one shows the bevels meeting at the point of one of my tungsten carbide picks.



In terms of thickness, I've found the bevel really comes into its own over about 1.4mm - which is where my picks currently start. They still work fine on thinner picks, but I'm not convinced they add much over other (often simpler) ways of finishing the edges.

Cheers,
David

Are your TC picks quiet when they initially contact the string i.e. don't click?

[AndrewG]

Most pick materials will develop their own bevel from wear after a few hours playing, so I fail to see the point of pre-bevelling. I also don't understand the term, 'speed' bevel. Practise and developing good picking technique, not a plectrum, enables one to play faster and more accurately. Then again I guess filing plastic is one way of filling time on a wet afternoon...

Originally Posted by AndrewG

Most pick materials will develop their own bevel from wear after a few hours playing, so I fail to see the point of pre-bevelling. I also don't understand the term, 'speed' bevel. Practise and developing good picking technique, not a plectrum, enables one to play faster and more accurately. Then again I guess filing plastic is one way of filling time on a wet afternoon...

Blue Chip material will not wear any appreciable amount, so if you want a bevel, you need to build it into the pick. For other picks that do wear, very thick material takes a long time to wear and since the tone is different with and without a bevel, you can either play a pick for a long time until it's "right" or you can build the bevel in. My picks are 0.060" to 0.080" thick (1.5-2.0mm) so I like to have them beveled in advance.

[HHP]

Originally Posted by AndrewG

Most pick materials will develop their own bevel from wear after a few hours playing, so I fail to see the point of pre-bevelling. I also don't understand the term, 'speed' bevel. Practise and developing good picking technique, not a plectrum, enables one to play faster and more accurately. Then again I guess filing plastic is one way of filling time on a wet afternoon...

I won't live long enough to wear in a bevel on my 4mm Casein picks. That would be a multi-generational project.

[stringjunky]

Originally Posted by HHP

I won't live long enough to wear in a bevel on my 4mm Casein picks. That would be a multi-generational project.

And it would have to be playing bluegrass as well.

[Charmed Life Picks]

Originally Posted by Todd Yates

Blue Chip material will not wear any appreciable amount, so if you want a bevel, you need to build it into the pick. For other picks that do wear, very thick material takes a long time to wear and since the tone is different with and without a bevel, you can either play a pick for a long time until it's "right" or you can build the bevel in. My picks are 0.060" to 0.080" thick (1.5-2.0mm) so I like to have them beveled in advance.

I would agree with Todd on this. The brown material BC uses is an engineering thermoset plastic. Believe it or not, it is used to replace metal industrial bearings in aircraft and other intense friction situations. Most people will LOSE a BC pick before it begins to show any sign or wearing. Casein picks will wear much faster, by comparison.

Thanks, Todd,
Scott