The Acoustic Guitar Forum

Go Back   The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Acoustic Amplification

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 11-05-2015, 03:38 AM
Schau_ins_Regal Schau_ins_Regal is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 269
Default Solstice Footswitch

Hi,

I know there was a pdf for the circuit of the mute footswitch for the DTAR Solstice. Unfortunately it is not available anymore because the site is down. So has anybody the plan? Then I would be glad if you would send it to me.... huebch1006(at)gmail.com
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-05-2015, 07:53 AM
Petty1818 Petty1818 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,556
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schau_ins_Regal View Post
Hi,

I know there was a pdf for the circuit of the mute footswitch for the DTAR Solstice. Unfortunately it is not available anymore because the site is down. So has anybody the plan? Then I would be glad if you would send it to me.... huebch1006(at)gmail.com
Try putting "Dtar Footswitch" into Google, I am sure you will find it. I found this by doing the same search but not sure if it has all of the info that you need:

https://www.seymourduncan.com/wp-con...footswitch.pdf
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-05-2015, 07:54 AM
Schau_ins_Regal Schau_ins_Regal is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 269
Default

already did, but didnīt find it. Found the same document you posted. The link in this document for the pdf plan leads to a broken link...
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-05-2015, 09:50 AM
Blueblimp Blueblimp is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 8
Default

Building a Mute Footswitch for the DTAR Solstice

The pushbutton switch:

It is DPDT switch, latching ("ON-ON") type. We used a Carling 316-PP industrial-grade switch in the prototype, and that switch is available from Mouser Electronics, as well as many electrical/electronic supply dealers. The AR70736 from MCM Electronics may also work, or possibly the Carling 64112220 from Digi-Key Corporation, but we haven't tried them (let us know if you do). The middle pair of switch terminals go to the stereo jack and the capacitor. Pick either remaining pair and connect those to the resistor and ground/common. (See the footswitch box schematic.)

Other parts:

Pretty much any ordinary LED (Light-Emitting Diode) will work. A high brightness type is, well, brightest, which is usually a good thing. I recommend going to Radio Shack and picking one that has the highest mcd (millicandle) rating. I've seen some "super red" types that claim 4000 mcd (4 candlepower) - when run at very high current. The current is not that high in the Solstice, but a high-brightness LED will still be brighter than a standard LED, even at low currents. When connecting the LED, remember that the "cathode" end of the LED is usually the shorter lead, or the lead next to small flat on the bottom flange. The cathode lead connects to the capacitor and footswitch.

The 10uF ("ten microfarad") capacitor is totally non-critical. An aluminum electrolytic capacitor or a tantalum capacitor would be my first choice, because they are cheap and readily available. Radio Shack 272-1013, 272-1025 and 272-1436 are good examples. The "+" terminal connects to the footswitch, and the "-" terminal connects to ground/common.

The resistor is totally non-critical as well. Pretty much any old 1K ("one thousand ohm") resistor would be just fine. Radio Shack 271-1118 or 271-1321 are typical examples. It doesn't matter which end of the resistor goes where.

The Radio Shack 274-312 is a good example of a stereo TRS jack, and similar jacks are available at many audio or guitar dealers, as well as many electronics distributors. The schematic symbol is a good approximation to the mechanical structure of the jack, so compare the jack to the schematic if you're not sure what goes where.

Building the Muting Pedal:

Use a metal box to avoid hum pickup, and be sure that the metal box is electrically connected ("grounded") to the metal bushing of the stereo jack for the same reason.

Solder all of the connections - if you don't, the connections won't be reliable and you'll be kicking the footswitch to get it to work. If you aren't comfortable with doing the soldering yourself, your local electric guitar repairman may be willing to help with that.

You pretty much can't hurt the Solstice with a wiring error in the footswitch, so don't worry if it doesn't work right when you first try it out. Rest assured that it will work properly if it is wired properly, and no harm will come if that doesn't happen the first time. If you're not sure how to connect up all of the electronic parts, ask for help from someone who has done some work with electronics. Basic electronics knowledge is pretty common today, but if you don't know anyone who can help, try a nearby high school, college or university. Most instructors in any of the physical sciences either have, or know someone who has, a basic knowledge of electronics. The same is true of most amateur (ham) radio people, and computer repair people, so help should be available without too much searching.

If the footswitch box is wired correctly, it shouldn't have any bad habits, such as "tone sucking", popping or buzzing. The LED on the footswitch should agree with the LED on the Solstice. If these things are not true, something is wrong, and the most likely problem is a wiring error. Also, remember that you must use a stereo (a.k.a. TRS, or Tip/Ring/Sleeve) cable with the footswitch. Most guitar cables are not stereo, so look for the extra contact on the plug (it looks like a stereo headphone plug) to make sure that you have a stereo cable. Also, the cable must be shielded (most are), or you will have lots of hum and buzz. Your local Radio Shack has shielded stereo cables, and your local guitar dealer probably does, too.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-05-2015, 11:39 AM
Blueblimp Blueblimp is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 8
Default

Switch Doctor also sells a ready made mute switch for $40.00
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-08-2015, 06:25 AM
Schau_ins_Regal Schau_ins_Regal is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 269
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueblimp View Post
Building a Mute Footswitch for the DTAR Solstice

The pushbutton switch:

It is DPDT switch, latching ("ON-ON") type. We used a Carling 316-PP industrial-grade switch in the prototype, and that switch is available from Mouser Electronics, as well as many electrical/electronic supply dealers. The AR70736 from MCM Electronics may also work, or possibly the Carling 64112220 from Digi-Key Corporation, but we haven't tried them (let us know if you do). The middle pair of switch terminals go to the stereo jack and the capacitor. Pick either remaining pair and connect those to the resistor and ground/common. (See the footswitch box schematic.)

Other parts:

Pretty much any ordinary LED (Light-Emitting Diode) will work. A high brightness type is, well, brightest, which is usually a good thing. I recommend going to Radio Shack and picking one that has the highest mcd (millicandle) rating. I've seen some "super red" types that claim 4000 mcd (4 candlepower) - when run at very high current. The current is not that high in the Solstice, but a high-brightness LED will still be brighter than a standard LED, even at low currents. When connecting the LED, remember that the "cathode" end of the LED is usually the shorter lead, or the lead next to small flat on the bottom flange. The cathode lead connects to the capacitor and footswitch.

The 10uF ("ten microfarad") capacitor is totally non-critical. An aluminum electrolytic capacitor or a tantalum capacitor would be my first choice, because they are cheap and readily available. Radio Shack 272-1013, 272-1025 and 272-1436 are good examples. The "+" terminal connects to the footswitch, and the "-" terminal connects to ground/common.

The resistor is totally non-critical as well. Pretty much any old 1K ("one thousand ohm") resistor would be just fine. Radio Shack 271-1118 or 271-1321 are typical examples. It doesn't matter which end of the resistor goes where.

The Radio Shack 274-312 is a good example of a stereo TRS jack, and similar jacks are available at many audio or guitar dealers, as well as many electronics distributors. The schematic symbol is a good approximation to the mechanical structure of the jack, so compare the jack to the schematic if you're not sure what goes where.

Building the Muting Pedal:

Use a metal box to avoid hum pickup, and be sure that the metal box is electrically connected ("grounded") to the metal bushing of the stereo jack for the same reason.

Solder all of the connections - if you don't, the connections won't be reliable and you'll be kicking the footswitch to get it to work. If you aren't comfortable with doing the soldering yourself, your local electric guitar repairman may be willing to help with that.

You pretty much can't hurt the Solstice with a wiring error in the footswitch, so don't worry if it doesn't work right when you first try it out. Rest assured that it will work properly if it is wired properly, and no harm will come if that doesn't happen the first time. If you're not sure how to connect up all of the electronic parts, ask for help from someone who has done some work with electronics. Basic electronics knowledge is pretty common today, but if you don't know anyone who can help, try a nearby high school, college or university. Most instructors in any of the physical sciences either have, or know someone who has, a basic knowledge of electronics. The same is true of most amateur (ham) radio people, and computer repair people, so help should be available without too much searching.

If the footswitch box is wired correctly, it shouldn't have any bad habits, such as "tone sucking", popping or buzzing. The LED on the footswitch should agree with the LED on the Solstice. If these things are not true, something is wrong, and the most likely problem is a wiring error. Also, remember that you must use a stereo (a.k.a. TRS, or Tip/Ring/Sleeve) cable with the footswitch. Most guitar cables are not stereo, so look for the extra contact on the plug (it looks like a stereo headphone plug) to make sure that you have a stereo cable. Also, the cable must be shielded (most are), or you will have lots of hum and buzz. Your local Radio Shack has shielded stereo cables, and your local guitar dealer probably does, too.
so where is the schematic? As I already said I know this text.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-08-2015, 06:26 AM
Schau_ins_Regal Schau_ins_Regal is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 269
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueblimp View Post
Switch Doctor also sells a ready made mute switch for $40.00
I also know. But cost for shipping to EU and custom clearance makes it uninteresting for me.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-08-2015, 02:24 PM
Blueblimp Blueblimp is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 8
Default

I created a separate thread with the schematic!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-09-2015, 06:40 AM
Schau_ins_Regal Schau_ins_Regal is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 269
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueblimp View Post
I created a separate thread with the schematic!
Thank you very much!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-02-2016, 09:52 AM
matteide matteide is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1
Default Schematic

I don't know if Seymour Duncan put this up only briefly and at my request, or if it was there all the time. Here's the link they sent me:

https://www.seymourduncan.com/wp-con...footswitch.pdf
Reply With Quote
Reply

  The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Acoustic Amplification

Thread Tools





All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, The Acoustic Guitar Forum
vB Ad Management by =RedTyger=