34' Martin 0-17 bar fret to modern fret conversion ?

[* velcro-fly *]

Anybody know of a modern fret that will fit the bar slot but has a modern crown and feel? I've got a 34' 0-17 I've had for at least 25 years, its really a voice of Angels type guitar....avoided a neck reset with a heat press that's held just as long as I've owned it, bridge was shaved...old codger I got it from did put some Grover tuners in it but I'll eventually get around to put it back close to normal...the answer may be a serious fret dress but I'm curious what modern solution there may be to the rail road track frets....

Ideas?

[TJNies]

I'd defer to the UMGF forum; a number of vintage luthiers that post there will be able to answer your query well.

[* velcro-fly *]

Originally Posted by TJNies

I'd defer to the UMGF forum; a number of vintage luthiers that post there will be able to answer your query well.

Good idea, thanks.

[Wade Hampton]

You might also try the Build and Repair subforum here.


whm

[Kerbie]

Originally Posted by Wade Hampton

You might also try the Build and Repair subforum here.

Thread moved.

[JonWint]

That guitar is rising in value. Changing to “T” frets will reduce its value more than the cost of your desired changes.

Bars frets with heights between 0.035” and 0.040”, proper top crown rounding, and end smoothing are comfortable to play. I don’t notice when I switch between my T fret and bar fret guitars.

Bars frets control relief by compression in the slots. The use of T frets paralleled the use of T bar reinforcement.

Converting to “T” frets requires filling the slots with wood and re-slotting resulting in potential relief control difficulty or fretboard replacement.

You could sell it to someone who appreciates bar frets and buy one that came with T frets.

[John Arnold]

There are no modern frets that will fit those wide slots. Filling the slots with wood and recutting for tee frets has mixed results, since the lesser compression may cause excessive neck relief.
It sounds like you already had a relief problem which was solved with a heat press. That also has mixed results. The best way to address excessive relief on a bar fret guitar is to refret with thicker frets, AKA a compression refret.
Proper dressing of bar frets will increase the playability immensely. Bar frets that are taller than 0.040" will tend to catch your fingertips when sliding, regardless of how they are dressed.
If you insist on going with tee frets, the prudent thing to do is install additional neck reinforcement. That can be a fixed carbon fiber bar, or an adjustable compression rod.

[* velcro-fly *]

Originally Posted by Kerbie

Thread moved.

Appreciate the move

[* velcro-fly *]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

There are no modern frets that will fit those wide slots. Filling the slots with wood and recutting for tee frets has mixed results, since the lesser compression may cause excessive neck relief.
It sounds like you already had a relief problem which was solved with a heat press. That also has mixed results. The best way to address excessive relief on a bar fret guitar is to refret with thicker frets, AKA a compression refret.
Proper dressing of bar frets will increase the playability immensely. Bar frets that are taller than 0.040" will tend to catch your fingertips when sliding, regardless of how they are dressed.
If you insist on going with tee frets, the prudent thing to do is install additional neck reinforcement. That can be a fixed carbon fiber bar, or an adjustable compression rod.

Good info, thanks. Agree that the correct fix is just a good fret dressing. I understand that the bar frets are a big part of the stability of the neck since no truss rod. I'm not gonna mess with it. If I'm understanding you correctly, you're saying that a compression refret is a better idea than a neck reset? I've always been opposed to taking a guitar apart, especially a near 90 yr old Martin.

[John Arnold]

Not at all. A neck reset changes the angle that the neck makes with the body. A reset will not straighten a warped neck.
Neck resets are routine repairs on vintage guitars, and if properly done, will only enhance the playability and resale value.

To be clear, resetting a neck is not done because it is warped. A reset is called for due to distortion of the body, mainly the soundboard. It becomes necessary when the action is too high, and cannot be lowered any more at the bridge.
High action due to a warped neck is when compression refretting or heat pressing should be used. If the neck is reasonably straight, heat pressing or compression fretting will lower the action, but overdoing it may actually back-bow the neck. That is not a viable solution either.

[Mr. Jelly]

My understanding is don't do it. Stay will the build correct frets. Find someone that has experience in bar frets and have them do it. My understanding is that everything about the support and shape of the neck is dependent on the bar frets. If you go to different frets you are rebuilding the neck and support in whitch it wasn't designed.

[Jimmy Caldwell]

An alternative that I don’t think has been mentioned is to remove the existing fingerboard, install neck reinforcement (I’d use carbon fiber), and install a new fingerboard with tee frets. One of the upsides of this procedure is that it’s reversible.