R Taylor cocobolo back: is this a crack? Should I bring to luthier?

[donSpice]

Hi,

Brand new member and first post!

I just spent a bundle on a 2007 R Taylor Style 1 with Engelmann top and Cocobolo back and sides. I am not posting about the wisdom of my choice but about a technical wood issue.

There is a small hairline “crack” in the Cocobolo back center that seems to be below the finish. I can see it but can’t feel it. It runs about 1.5 inches stops for an inch and continues for about half an inch. Pictures included. The “hairline” is brightened by the phone camera flash but angled standard lighting has the same effect.

Here is the Imgur link. Hope it works:

https://imgur.com/gallery/QWxby

I’m not sure if this is a crack or what the heck it is, whether it is something to worry about or not. Just got the guitar, waited 24 hours etc. I practice a ton (lifelong) but otherwise the guitar is kept in case with sound-hole and headstock humidifiers. Very dry NE winter heating, but this happened before I got the instrument.

Hoping this is only cosmetic and minor! Everything else on the guitar is close to mint as far as I can tell. Apparently this was a collectors case queen, properly humidified, etc.

Please advise, and thank you all in advance!

Don

——

Current: Hirade H-10, Taylor 324ce, PRS C24 10 top, RT Style 1 Engelmann/Cocobolo

Past: Too many. Mostly Gibson and Fender electrics. Should have kept my first one, a brand new 1970 walnut ES-335, 400 bucks at Manny’s Music. Traded and traded till I got a pre-corporate Epiphone jazz box which exploded shortly after I took it home. It gets worse.

[mirwa]

If you cannot feel it then its fine, Taylors use a super thin UltraViolet cured clear coat, about thickness of a piece of A4 paper

Coco is well known for cracking, its possible during the manufacture that small sections cracked as they were being bent and were glued solid before the finishing was completed, totally normal.

Or

Its had a top quality repair since.

Steve

[donSpice]

Originally Posted by mirwa

If you cannot feel it then its fine, Taylors use a super thin UltraViolet cured clear coat, about thickness of a piece of A4 paper



Coco is well known for cracking, its possible during the manufacture that small sections cracked as they were being bent and were glued solid before the finishing was completed, totally normal.



Or



Its had a top quality repair since.



Steve

Thank you Steve! Good to know and very reassuring. Greatly appreciated!

(Sorry, I replied to another comment here. Doing everything from phone and new to this app not to mention brains probably fried from playing scales all day for too many years.)

[phavriluk]

Maybe OP would profit from bringing the instrument to a good luthier for an inspection. Peace of mind might well result. Mention was of wanting the instrument to be a keeper and for sure an R.Taylor is well into keeper country by my lights. But the inspection might well settle down the ambiguities of buying the instrument used, and considering the price of the guitar, an inconsequential additional investment.

[runamuck]

It's extremely hard to say from that photo but that may not be a crack.

[donSpice]

Originally Posted by runamuck

It's extremely hard to say from that photo but that may not be a crack.

Yeah I’m hoping it’s not a crack either, but what could it be, then? Last night I noticed this “mark” is in fact discernible (with some effort) on the seller’s pictures though it isn’t mentioned and the condition is listed as Excellent. I’ll be calling the store next week to see what they say about it.

Again thank you all for your responses.

Don

[donSpice]

Update. I spoke with the dealer rep today and he thought it could possibly be grain crystallization. The closest thing I’ve found are articles on resin crystallization. The dealer is very reputable and they have been very helpful. They suggested I speak with the folks at Taylor when I register the guitar.

The instrument looks and sounds wonderful. Very rich overtones and magical light touch sensitivity especially on trebles. Bass notes are a little thuddy with calloused thumb skin but they liven up with proper attack. Will experiment with strings too. Guitar rings like a bell. To use the word again, it’s downright magical.

My 2c on tone is, of course construction and tonewood are critical, but at a certain guitar quality, most important is really player technique. Mark O’Connor’s famous Herringbone Martin is surely a great instrument but he has the chops to make any guitar sound extraordinary. Then again, this guitar rings almost celestially, and that is more than just my old hands!

I’ll will provide another update after registering the guitar with Taylor next week.

Have a great weekend all!

—————

Current: Hirade H-10, Taylor 324ce, PRS C24 10 top, RT Style 1 Engelmann/Cocobolo

Past: Too many. Mostly Gibson and Fender electrics.

[donSpice]

Originally Posted by phavriluk

Maybe OP would profit from bringing the instrument to a good luthier for an inspection. Peace of mind might well result. Mention was of wanting the instrument to be a keeper and for sure an R.Taylor is well into keeper country by my lights. But the inspection might well settle down the ambiguities of buying the instrument used, and considering the price of the guitar, an inconsequential additional investment.

Thank you! I agree completely. I will be taking this baby in for an inspection after I contact Taylor as suggested by the dealer.

[Mr Fingers]

Can't tell from the pics. Glad you're getting it checked out. Maybe some tonewoods are prone to cracking, but that doesn't make it OK if you do find a crack. Obviously, cracks are undesirable, and though many of us have old guitars that are virtual crack-fests (my old Gibson has 7, all stable), cracks can be a problem, and/or become a problem. Taylor is pretty famous for excellent wood processing, so I would be surprised if thos proves to be a crack. If it is, it's likely easily fixed. Once in a while, we'll encounter a bad crack in a good guitar, but odds are that what we're seeing here will be a non-issue. Glad to hear the guitar sounds and plays so wonderfully!

[donSpice]

Apparently at this price point a check-up is in order, for these markings, and for the guitar’s general health post shipment etc. I’m more concerned with durability than anything else.

Thank you Mr. Fingers. Keeping mine crossed!

[John Arnold]

Looks like mineralization to me. It is calcium carbonate in the pores of the wood, and is cosmetic only. This is common in many tropical hardwoods, including, mahogany, rosewood, and ebony. I like to remove it from the surface after final sanding, and before finishing. That can be done with an acidic solution like white vinegar, C-L-R, or diluted muriatic acid. After treatment, I neutralize the surface with baking soda. If there are only a few affected pores, it can also be removed with a pick or an XActo knife.

[Simon Fay]

As John stated, that is just "stuff" in the pores. This is very, very, very common with Rosewoods and also with Mahogany. Mahogany mineral deposits are often white. IF you look at your neck, chances are you might see some. When the deposits cause high contrast, I like to wire the surface with vinegar and brush the surface with a a soft wire brush. Then I pore fill with something dark but nothing can be done at this point besides stripping off the finish. In short, absolutely no need to worry - just enjoy your guitar and keep it properly humidified.

[donSpice]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

Looks like mineralization to me. It is calcium carbonate in the pores of the wood, and is cosmetic only. This is common in many tropical hardwoods, including, mahogany, rosewood, and ebony. I like to remove it from the surface after final sanding, and before finishing. That can be done with an acidic solution like white vinegar, C-L-R, or diluted muriatic acid. After treatment, I neutralize the surface with baking soda. If there are only a few affected pores, it can also be removed with a pick or an XActo knife.

Great to hear! Thank you!

[donSpice]

Originally Posted by Simon Fay

As John stated, that is just "stuff" in the pores. This is very, very, very common with Rosewoods and also with Mahogany. Mahogany mineral deposits are often white. IF you look at your neck, chances are you might see some. When the deposits cause high contrast, I like to wire the surface with vinegar and brush the surface with a a soft wire brush. Then I pore fill with something dark but nothing can be done at this point besides stripping off the finish. In short, absolutely no need to worry - just enjoy your guitar and keep it properly humidified.

That’s two good ones in a row. Thank you!

[JonWint]

This unfinished back shows mineral deposits (white lines) in Martin EIR wood rejected for the existence of deposits. I remove them before finishing. It's not worth Martin's time to remove them, but it is for me.