Martin Long Saddle Glue

[Zigeuner]

Originally Posted by redir

In the end though the drop-in is a better design. It's the way I like to do it on guitars I make in that style. Still looks like a cool vintage design with the extra added security of a stronger bridge and not a PIA if you need to remove the saddle.

I certainly agree. The replacement long drop in saddles have the appearance of the earlier design with the ease of adjustment of a drop in.

[Mr Fingers]

Let me reveal my idiocy. I purchased a beat-to-heck old Gibson with a through saddle in a cracked bridge that someone had "fixed" with clear epoxy. With the action now too low, it had to be redone. After hours of work with a soldering iron and an Xacto to break down and remove the epoxy I inlaid an invisible patch in the BRW saddle (I don't remove old bridges unless I must) and made a new saddle of old bone. But I never knew that through bridges were meant to be glued in, so I simply fit it carefully and snugly, and let the string tension hold it. So I guess I should have glued it in place. But why?

[redir]

It will probably be fine but the reason why is because the true bridge saddle weakens the front edge of the bridge. The edge parallel to and facing the saddle and it was not uncommon to see them split. So gluing them in makes it whole again and much stronger.

[Zigeuner]

Originally Posted by Mr Fingers

Let me reveal my idiocy. I purchased a beat-to-heck old Gibson with a through saddle in a cracked bridge that someone had "fixed" with clear epoxy. With the action now too low, it had to be redone. After hours of work with a soldering iron and an Xacto to break down and remove the epoxy I inlaid an invisible patch in the BRW saddle (I don't remove old bridges unless I must) and made a new saddle of old bone. But I never knew that through bridges were meant to be glued in, so I simply fit it carefully and snugly, and let the string tension hold it. So I guess I should have glued it in place. But why?

You should be OK as long as the saddle can fit deeply enough into the slot in the bridge to keep from tilting.

Congratulations on your dexterity in removing the epoxy.

The link below is about someone who purchased a 1961 Martin D-18 that had had the a neck reset done with epoxy. You got off easy with just a saddle. LOL.

There was a guitar maker back in the 1970's who built some nice guitars using a butt joint for the neck. It was held on with epoxy. I guess you would have to saw it off in order to do a neck reset.

http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/f...d.php?t=407663

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by Zigeuner

There was a guitar maker back in the 1970's who built some nice guitars using a butt joint for the neck. It was held on with epoxy. I guess you would have to saw it off in order to do a neck reset.

That would be David Russel Young.

Lakewood also used an epoxied butt neck joint back in the day.