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  #16  
Old 09-25-2017, 11:31 AM
jfgesquire jfgesquire is offline
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Originally Posted by HarryQ View Post
I would be cautious about having the fretboard planed unless it's actually warped. I've refretted guitars with significant divots or wear in the fingerboard and found that the divots don't bother me. Since the fret wire protects the actual area where the fret sits, the divots shouldn't affect the fret level itself. I like to save as much of the original fingerboard as possible. Alternatively the divots can be filled with super glue or epoxy mixed with matching wood dust, then leveled. Others may feel differently.
Even with all its issues, it was very playable and there was no fret buzz anywhere. No warpage. Thanks for your input.

The second fret first string area is barely there...must be magic.
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  #17  
Old 09-25-2017, 11:34 AM
jfgesquire jfgesquire is offline
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Originally Posted by Todd Yates View Post
In your general area, Steve Kovacik or Dave Strunk and Rich Eckhart come to mind. They are well versed in vintage repairs and can help you make the right choices for this guitar.

http://www.guitar-repair.com/

http://brothersmusicshop.com/
Thank you. I came across the Kovacik link before looking for tuners, didn't realize he was in New York.
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  #18  
Old 09-25-2017, 12:14 PM
Dwight Dwight is offline
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Originally Posted by jfgesquire View Post

How much work would you have done? By whom? Where would you draw the line?
Does it have to be restored? I would put it back in it's case and stick it under the bed. Their's no rule that says you have to be the one to pay for restoration. You should spend as much or as little as you like. Welcome to the forum.
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  #19  
Old 09-25-2017, 12:17 PM
jfgesquire jfgesquire is offline
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Does it have to be restored? I would put it back in it's case and stick it under the bed. Their's no rule that says you have to be the one to pay for restoration. You should spend as much or as little as you like. Welcome to the forum.
Restored? No.

Fixed and stable, playable? Yes. I want to play it.
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  #20  
Old 09-25-2017, 12:48 PM
downtime downtime is offline
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Dennis Berck in Oregon is recognized by many as one of the top luthiers for vintage Gibson repairs. The 3 suggested by Todd Yates are also at the top of the craft.

I would reach out to a couple of them and send pictures and get their advice on how far you should go on the repair vs. full restore.

Personally I'd do as much as possible to get it back to original and get it playable and stable. Please let us know what you decide.
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  #21  
Old 09-25-2017, 01:05 PM
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SalFromChatham SalFromChatham is offline
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Western New York...

But really, any suggestions help. Someone recommended a luthier in Seattle, and if I thought he was the best for the job I'd ship it across the country.
Brothers Music - Wind Gap PA.
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  #22  
Old 09-25-2017, 01:29 PM
cisco7 cisco7 is offline
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I just wanted to say good luck! She looks amazing!
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  #23  
Old 09-25-2017, 01:33 PM
Jabberwocky Jabberwocky is offline
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She looks great and I hope she is well restored by someone skilled.

She deserves it.
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  #24  
Old 09-25-2017, 01:45 PM
Howard Klepper Howard Klepper is offline
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Closeups of the area in front of the bridge and behind the bridge, especially the bass side wing, would help. It appears that there may be cross-grain cracking in front of the bridge. If so, you are right to consider that as serious damage. Also get photos showing how high the top is bellied (put a straightedge across it behind the bridge).

The tailblock, side, and back cracks, and refret are basic repairs. Stabilizing the bridge area and repairing damage to the top call for sophisticated skills. So does an original style bridge replacement with finish touchup.

The refinish looks professional. How much wood was removed from the top in the process is critical. I would expect that a spruce graft under the bridge area and a new bridge plate will be needed, but those choices should be made with the guitar in hand.

It is worth fixing right. You might add David Collins in Ann Arbor to your list of those to consider without going too long a distance.
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  #25  
Old 09-25-2017, 01:59 PM
jfgesquire jfgesquire is offline
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Originally Posted by Howard Klepper View Post
Closeups of the area in front of the bridge and behind the bridge, especially the bass side wing, would help. It appears that there may be cross-grain cracking in front of the bridge. If so, you are right to consider that as serious damage. Also get photos showing how high the top is bellied (put a straightedge across it behind the bridge).

The tailblock, side, and back cracks, and refret are basic repairs. Stabilizing the bridge area and repairing damage to the top call for sophisticated skills. So does an original style bridge replacement with finish touchup.

The refinish looks professional. How much wood was removed from the top in the process is critical. I would expect that a spruce graft under the bridge area and a new bridge plate will be needed, but those choices should be made with the guitar in hand.
The picture from the inside doesn't seem to show damage in the same area as compression in front of the bridge that is visible on the outside, but that is certainly what scares me the most.

Spruce graft... Hmm, I'll have to educate myself. I have seen stories of tops splitting like sheets of paper when the wood fibers run diagonal through the top. I was worried about that, too.

The lacquer refinish does look pretty nice, the neck is flawless. The body is checking just like you'd expect 30+ year old lacquer to do, actually, but my understanding is that the refinisher was the one who nicked the tuners...

Last edited by Kerbie; 09-26-2017 at 02:34 PM. Reason: Removed masked profanity
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  #26  
Old 09-25-2017, 02:22 PM
Axis39 Axis39 is offline
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Let me qualify first to say I am NOT a collector.

With that out of the way... I'm a sucker for old guitars with a story or an emotional attachment. I'm also a sucker for players. I am one who believes that when you come across a guitar that has worn fretboard or finish, it means someone loved playing it.

If it were mine, and I had the money, like you, I would make it a playable guitar... I would lean towards restoring it with era correct/correct replacement parts and such, like the correct size bridge, etc.

I would have the bracing looked at and repaired as needed, the cracks could be repaired, etc. I'd want it stable and ready to give another 60+ years wortht of joy tot eh family!
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  #27  
Old 09-25-2017, 02:36 PM
Steve DeRosa Steve DeRosa is offline
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Originally Posted by thegreatgumbino View Post
Beautiful guitar! Congrats on your new baby. My dad was born in 1946, and I've always dreamed of owning a J45 from that year.

Since it's already been refinished, I would have all the necessary work done to make it playable and as new and not worry about it. It's a family heirloom, fix it right once more and it will last forever. You can find period correct used tuners, but since it's refinished why not just upgrade to Waverly's or similar? I don't see anything that isn't fixable or is a major repair, though I'm not expert.
What he said...
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  #28  
Old 09-25-2017, 02:40 PM
Howard Klepper Howard Klepper is offline
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Originally Posted by jfgesquire View Post
The picture from the inside doesn't seem to show damage in the same area as compression in front of the bridge that is visible on the outside, but that is certainly what scares me the most.

Spruce graft... Hmm, I'll have to educate myself. I have seen stories of tops splitting like sheets of paper when the wood fibers run diagonal through the top. I was worried about that, too.

The lacquer refinish does look pretty nice, the neck is flawless. The body is checking just like you'd expect 30+ year old lacquer to do, actually, but my understanding is that the refinisher was the one who nicked the tuners...b@sta@rd!
I do see what looks like that crossgrain damage on the inside photos, just to the treble side of the centerline and running in an irregular patter for about 2"(unless it is a stain).

35 years ago, originality was less of a value, and many people had their tuners replaced with Grovers or Schallers for better function. The original tuners were not valuable, and got tossed into a box by the person doing the replacement. It was not considered "nicking."
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  #29  
Old 09-25-2017, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jfgesquire View Post
Spruce graft... Hmm, I'll have to educate myself.
Spruce graft education, examples from some of the best, and free of charge. link

Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard Klepper View Post
35 years ago, originality was less of a value, and many people had their tuners replaced with Grovers or Schallers for better function. The original tuners were not valuable, and got tossed into a box by the person doing the replacement. It was not considered "nicking."
Absolutely! Rotomatics were a big "upgrade" at one time. Look at photos of Dudley Connell and his '43 D-28. You'll see big Rotomatic buttons in most of them. Only recently has he replaced those with more period correct tuners.

Last edited by Guest 1928; 09-25-2017 at 02:50 PM.
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  #30  
Old 09-25-2017, 02:51 PM
Truckjohn Truckjohn is offline
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I am kinda with Howard here on what appears to be a crossgrain crack in front of the bridge.. That would concern me a lot.. I would really want to poke a mirror in there to make sure it's not just lint and trash inside the guitar...

My goal on this old gem would be to make it playable and structurally sound... Not necessarily to restore it.

Luthier wise - you have some great recommendations. My opinion is that this guitar is worth a "pilgrimage" to take it to the fellow and have him look it over with you... That way - you guys can talk it over and decide the best course of action with the instrument in his hands...

Thanks
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