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  #1  
Old 01-27-2024, 08:51 AM
Sadstrings70 Sadstrings70 is offline
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Default very slight bridge separation

Hello Everyone,

I’m new here and this is my first post. Have been reading other posts in a variety of different sections and am very amazed at the amount of knowledge people have here. Am so glad to be here.

My question is about whether a particular guitar should be repaired. I now have a Washburn Bella Tono Series, Vite S9V, acoustic/electric (same exact color as the video). It belonged to my dad before he passed. Thus, I see it as priceless for purely sentimental, nostalgic reasons. Although I play mostly on my semi-hollows and nylon string, I have been picking this up for the last month or so and have enjoyed how nice it sounds.

There appears to be a very slight problem however. The bridge is very, very slightly lifting up from the soundboard. By imperceptibly, I mean less than a 1 mm gap has opened, and only at the furthest edge of the bridge (toward the bottom of the guitar if placed upright). The gap is very small and runs the length of maybe 1” (across the D and G strings). The tip of a piece of 8.5 x 11 paper will not even fit into the gap.

I saw this gap because the soundboard is slightly bulging upward. The slight rise is not unsightly and it is maybe only 1 mm toward the bridge area. The bridge saddle is still in the location that isn’t bulging. My camera can’t really capture it, however due to the color and shine of the soundboard, so I didn’t bother trying to take a photo.

I do not know what may have caused the top to do this. However, for about two months before he passed, he had a caretaker that bathed him and the guitar was in the same bedroom with the bathroom. It was hanging on a wall about 10 feet away. Could the steam from many warm showers be the cause of making the wood do this? The bathroom door was never closed and condensation did get to the bedroom; the window on the balcony was not always open either. But to be fair to the caretaker, the bathroom vent was turned on every time.

The sound is still very nice. I have only ever plugged it into an amp once. It plays very nicely unplugged, although I’m not a heavy strummer.

At this time, I am debating whether I should have it re-glued by a luthier. It is now in a nice home, in a dry, humidity controlled environment of about 40-50% (am in Southern California). Again, the tip of a piece of 8.5 x 11 paper will still not fit into this gap. Just not sure whether the gap will inevitably grow and thus getting it serviced now would just be proactive common sense. And, if a repair should be done, can luthiers do something to flatten out the bulge? I did order a Mitchel’s PlateMate and it’s on the way. Am not sure if this will strengthen the bridge area and prevent the top from separating as well as further bulging.

Thank you for any tips and wisdoms coming this way.

SS70
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  #2  
Old 01-27-2024, 09:35 AM
redir redir is offline
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Take the corner of a Post-it note or something like that and slide it under the bridge as far as it goes and take a pic. Other close up pics would help too.

IDK how Washburn does it but sometimes there is a rabbit cut into the very edge of the bridge so that it 'floats' over the finish when it's glued down. So it could be normal. Otherwise if it is indeed lifting then it's probably best to take it in to be reglued. Expect to pay $100 or a bit more.
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Old 01-27-2024, 11:02 AM
John Arnold John Arnold is offline
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The Plate Mate won't help this issue. If you can slide the paper under more than 1/16", it is a candidate for removal and regluing.
Many factories don't go the extra step when gluing bridges, leaving a band of finish around the perimeter. ALL the finish should be removed under the bridge for a long-lasting bond.
Flattening the top is a judgement call. In general, a gradual belly bulge of less than 1/8" is considered normal. But a crease in the top at either end of the bridge may be a sign of loose X braces, which should be reglued. Flattening a bellied top is a nontrivial repair that can involve heat, moisture and pressing it over several days. It is more effective with the bridge removed.

Last edited by John Arnold; 01-27-2024 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 01-27-2024, 11:36 AM
Sadstrings70 Sadstrings70 is offline
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Default some pics...

Thanks to both of you for chiming in. I will upload some pics when I am off work for you all to see. I appreicate your responses. Stay tuned...
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Old 01-27-2024, 12:59 PM
Bowie Bowie is offline
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As mentioned, the gap is sometimes just the overhang, so it's not glued to the finish. The paper test reveals a lot.
They sometimes just lift. Humidity and belt can certainly contribute but aren't necessarily the cause. There's a lot of rotational force on the saddle. If it needs to be re-glued, it's not a big deal.
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Old 01-27-2024, 07:27 PM
Sadstrings70 Sadstrings70 is offline
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Default some pics

Hello again good people,

I used my web design subscription to create a makeshift site where you can scroll through some of the pics. Turns out the post-it does fit into it a bit, maybe 1 mm.

https://my-guitars.yolasite.com/

What doesn't show as it's hard for me to capture this with all the positioning I tried, is that the bulging, if you look at the guitar upright, kind of flows downward on both sides as if the bridge has a mustache. I suppose it's following the bracing under the soundboard? Note that I describe these issues as someone who knows nothing about guitar repair, so if there are formal terms to use, feel free to let me know.

I think when spring comes around, I just might go to a luthier; if they charge more than the guitar was worth when new, then so be it. Have been watching youtube vids this week and it seems like this is something I do not plan to mess with as DIY.

Thanks once again.

SS70
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Old 01-27-2024, 07:53 PM
redir redir is offline
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Doesn't look right to me. Take in for repair. If it was not a sentimental guitar as you stated I might be inclined to say, just leave it and see what happens. But if you want peace of mind then have it checked out. If they do re-glue it, it will be better than new. Guitars like that they just glue the bridge to the finish and that is why they eventually pull up. As John mentioned they will remove all the old finish and you will have good wood to wood contact and it will be perfect.
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Old 01-27-2024, 09:04 PM
Bowie Bowie is offline
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I don't see any reason for concern, just based on that pic. A little deformation around the bridge is not uncommon. My best, luthier-made instruments have it. Paying someone look at it just doesn't make sense, IMO, given the cost of the instrument. Even if you account for sentimental value, what are you avoiding? It lifting more? It popping off? Most bridges don't go from that state to randomly shearing off a portion of the top wood.

If you just want to put some money into dad's old guitar, for the feeling that gives you, I get it. In that case, get a hygrometer and humidifier and start keeping it at the perfect RH. That's literally the best thing you can do.

But, I don't see any immediate warning signs. That small gap is not uncommon. A tech will see if paper can fit in there. If you can't get more than the edge of a piece of paper in there, you did your due diligence. Just keep an eye in case it starts to lift. When it does, you will know. And, in my experience, you can shine a light and see glue stretching apart. If it's an area that did not have glue under it (like those sharp corners) then it will just look clean, which it seems to be in the pic.
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  #9  
Old 01-27-2024, 09:15 PM
Sadstrings70 Sadstrings70 is offline
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Bowie, John and redir,

All of your different views are awesome and diverse. Will take everyone's 2 cents into consideration! I will be reading a lot of information on this site from now on. Thanks once again.

SS70
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bridge, bulging top, separation, soundboard bulging






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