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#1
12-03-2014, 12:03 PM
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CA glue for bindings ???
I have seen where some use CA glue to glue up bindings. In the past I have used LMI glue and liked how it worked.
I am working on a binding, purfling pattern that is a little more complex and the thought of taping it up first and wicking in the CA glue looks pretty good. It just makes me a little nervous about it holding as well. Anyone here use this method? Does It glue up as strong? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks Travis 
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#2
12-03-2014, 06:51 PM
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Travis: I have done it both way and find using CA glue is the fastest method but the fumes kill me so I don't do it that way anymore. Which is stronger............I don't know, never had any problems with either glue.
Tom
__________________
A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything
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#3
12-03-2014, 07:40 PM
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I think it's an excellent method. From what I understand there are some special formulated CA glues that are non-fuming. You would probably want to still be careful. It's evil stuff but it sure makes for a fast and accurate binding job.
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#6
12-03-2014, 11:29 PM
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If your guitar has a spruce top, seal any end grain very well first, or you'll regret it. CA has a habit of turning spruce an indelible yellow/green, which is why I always use Titebond.
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#7
12-04-2014, 12:35 AM
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That is an important point with spruce. The first time I experienced the yellowing, it was on a guitar I was building for Norman Blake. He didn't mind the discoloration, and after several years, it faded away.
Since then, I do all the top purflings in a separate operation, using wood glue or Duco. In place of the binding, I use strips of of 1/16" thick polyethylene. After that dries, I pull off the polyethylene strips and glue on the binding with CA. I prefer using thick CA for bindings, instead of wicking the thin CA. I am deathly allergic to CA fumes, so I use odorless CA by Bob Smith Industries. It is called Super Gold. It is over twice as expensive as regular CA. The bonus is that it never foams or turns white, which is important when using it for finish touch-ups. http://www.gravesrc.com/bsi121-bsi-t...ca-1-2-oz.html I have used most every brand of CA, and BSI is the one I like the best (no affiliation). I keep the bottles in the freezer until I open them.
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#10
12-04-2014, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
__________________
---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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#11
12-04-2014, 01:57 PM
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Ned: Thanks for waking me up.....!!! Yes ,I remember them but it slipped from my mind. Should be easier then trying to bring it in myself.
Tom
__________________
A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything
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#12
12-04-2014, 02:16 PM
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I've used CA, and it works fine. The one concern is that CA can wick into the spruce, particularly on the endgrain, and stain it yellow. Sealing the binding channel with shellac usually prevents the problem.
edit: I must be getting old and slow, 9 posted while I was typing.
__________________
Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al
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#13
12-05-2014, 10:54 AM
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Thanks for all the pointers guys.
Last night I gave the CA glue method a try and it worked great. I was wanting to put a short grain rosewood purfling next to my binding and knew it would not bend with the binding. I used CA to glue the binding on first and after drying, I went back and installed the rosewood purfling along with a black/white purfling stripe. Then I wicked in the CA glue once I got everything where I wanted. It turned out great.   Thanks again Travis
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