#1
|
|||
|
|||
Anyone play an upright bass?
Does anyone play an upright bass? The "big" ones they use in bluegrass? Just curious about the strings and how difficult they are (or are not) on the fingers.
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Yup.
The 3/4 size upright is the standard instrument used by most upright players. They are a VERY physical instrument and you have to develop calloused fingers (both left hand and the the fleshy portion of the first two fingers on the right hand to pluck with). They require a bit of muscle build-up, but if a bass is set up properly and has good strings they aren't terribly difficult to play. Make sure you can wrestle one in your car if you're driving a sub-compact. Many people are surprised as to the amount of room they take up. A word of advice, research your purchase and don't think that the import bass from your favorite catalog or local music store will last much longer than the time it takes for the short warranty period to expire. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Used to play one in high school, an old '40s Kay blonde with gut strings (wish I had bought it before I graduated...) that was an absolute bear to handle; as with many school instruments, it was a case of "buy it and stick it in the music room, as-is" - and the fact that a few years of playing one of those trainwreck old Harmony archtops (strung with genuine New Brunswick Black Diamond heavy-gauge neckwreckers) resulted in a left-hand grip worthy of King Kong was the only thing that allowed me (and one other guy in the entire school) to get any kind of tone/volume out of it...
That said, things have come a long way since the mid-60's in terms of both luthierie knowledge and instrument technology; just as with a guitar, a double bass can be set up to play with surprising ease - if you find someone who knows what he/she is doing. Frankly, I've been considering adding one to my instrument stable for a while now (when/if I find the space ) - and having learned the hard way what does not constitute a proper setup, I'd gladly invest the extra money (think about $200/up depending on initial instrument quality, amount of work needed, type of strings, etc.) to have it done right from the get-go. Again using guitar as a reference point, you'll need to be extremely specific with the luthier in terms of your intended usage, if you're going to get the most out of your instrument; just as a fingerstylist and a flatpicker with otherwise-identical instruments will have widely differing needs in terms of action, string gauge/type, neck relief, etc., a bluegrass bassist who plays exclusively pizzicato will have very different requirements than a classical soloist (who rarely strays from arco), a small-combo jazzer who uses both techniques, or a rockabilly slap-cat... Since Rudy covered most of the basics, in the interest of space - volumes can easily be written on the subject - I'm not going to get in to the fine points of instrument selection/setup here; I've listed a few of my favorite websites below - between them you should be able to find whatever information you're after: http://www.gollihurmusic.com/ http://www.uptonbass.com/ http://www.lemurmusic.com/ http://www.davidgage.com/ http://kolstein.mivamerchant.net/mm5...gory_Code=bass |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Rudy and Steve, thanks for the replies. I had a fleeting moment last year that maybe adding an upright bass, next to the banjo and mandolin I bought last year, would be a nice addition to the guitar room. I really don't think I will but based on what I read it's like any other instrument - you pay for quality.
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
- and, just as we guitarists have instruments that far exceed the tonal expectations of their modest prices - Blueridge, Recording King, Eastman, The Loar, the various Godin products - there are fine-playing, modestly-priced basses available from the vendors I listed, among others. One little-known fact among the uninitiated is that laminated construction does not hold the same stigma (or tonal drawbacks) as it does in the guitar world; many experienced players consider vintage Epiphone and Kay instruments (as well as the rare-as-dinosaur-poop pre-war Gibsons) to be the Holy Grail of tone - so if you're not up to the four- or five-figure price of admission for a fully-carved piece (IMO the solid-top/lam-backs are neither fish nor fowl, lacking both the four-season stability of the all-laminated basses and the rich tonal complexity of the fully-carved models) a serviceable, easy-playing bass can be had for the price of a midline guitar from one of the "Big Three" American makers. I say save your bucks and go for it - if you travel in exclusively acoustic circles it'll open up a whole new world of opportunities...
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Yes, I have played bluegrass bass for years, great instrument to have at a jam. It is a physical instrument and it has its challenges but that shouldn't turn you off. I think it is more about good technique and and playing enough to keep in shape. I like gut strings but there are a lot of options out there.
An entry level 3/4 bass costs a lot more than an equivilent guitar. A playable laminate bass will run about 2k. Set up is very important and you really need to work with someone who specializes in violin family instruments. A full setup on a new factory instrument can run about 1k. Strings cost a lot more but can last years. High-end carved basses sell for some serious coin but aren't really nessary/appropriate. The iconic country and bluegrass players used laminated basses. Kays, American Standard, Epiphone, etc. Thumpy with a big fundamental. The folks over at the talkbass double bass forum are very knowledgable and they have a great FAQ for folks interested in looking for their first bass. Defiantly worth finding an experienced player to help you get started. Intonation, tone, and acoustic volume all take work to develop. Playing even simple 1-5 parts can be suprisingly difficult until you develop a solid foundation. I don't play bass at home alone much but it is always welcome at a jam. Helps the ensable sound a lot more than yet another guitarist :-) |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
Dan Carey (not Crary) A couple of guitars A Merida DG16 Classical Guitar A couple of banjos A Yueqin A Mountain Dulcimer that I built A Hammered Dulcimer that I'm currently building And a fiddle that I built! Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
LOL, you know, the fiddle should be next on my list. I'm not really looking to get an upright bass but it's always nice to learn. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Much as I loved my Englehardt 3/4 acoustic upright, I settled on this as a solution to a number of my bass problems:
http://www.bluestemstrings.com/pageBassCUBE.html |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
OR if you really, really want a bass, a Kala UBass might be just the thing (though you will need a small bass amp...you can hear one to practice on but you'll need amplification for a "real" bass sound). Phil
__________________
Solo Fingerstyle CDs: Two Steps Forward, One Step Back (2021) One Size Does Not Fit All (2018) I play Crosby, Emerald, Larrivée, Lowden, Rainsong & Tacoma guitars. Check out my Guitar Website. See guitar photos & info at my Guitars page. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
If you're really interested check out Talkbass Forum Double Bass |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
I have a bsx upright electric as well a a 3/4 double bass of unknown origin. The upright electric gets a lot more use since it's a lot easier to transport and really doesn't sound that significantly different once the sound makes the way through the amp.
The upright electric is easier to play as well. However the acoustic bass is a lot more fun to play... It hasn't been that hard of an adjustment for me, but it did take practice and work. One thing I did was put little "fret" markers on the side of the bass strategically so I knew where to go for best intonation. They are still there but I don't have to pay much attention to them anymore. I say go for it!!! I will also not let the price tag limit your thinking. My double bass cost me $500 used and it records fine and plays fine. I personally think it's better to get something cheap and playable and see if you like it enough to keep it. I think people want you to spend a lot of money to get started when it's not really worth it IMHO.
__________________
Music: http://mfassett.com Taylor 710 sunburst Epiphone ef-500m ...a few electrics |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
It sounded great either way but I wanted something lower so I now keep mine tuned GDGC (same intervals as DADG). It's a fairly minor change in string gauges for GDAD ore GDAE (back to 5ths, this time an octave below a mandolin/violin). I bought myself a set of nut files so I could do my own setups/maintenance and stringing it for the lower tuning was pretty simple. Phil
__________________
Solo Fingerstyle CDs: Two Steps Forward, One Step Back (2021) One Size Does Not Fit All (2018) I play Crosby, Emerald, Larrivée, Lowden, Rainsong & Tacoma guitars. Check out my Guitar Website. See guitar photos & info at my Guitars page. |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
The really fun thing is that it is so easy to play with the short scale and the low tension of the rubbery strings. We play two and three hour gigs and I can walk those bass lines all night without killing my fingers. It's also a good conversation starter at gigs, everyone wants to come up afterwards and ask about it. |