Whats standard nut slot height?

[GreenWoodworker]

Whats the standard nut slot height? I read from Stuart Mac .30'' over the first fret. I forgot what we did at Taylor, haven't done one in like 10 years.

Also what size cutters/files are used for each string? Im going to make feeler gauge cutters.

[John Arnold]

The correct nut height is the same as the frets. With that in mind, action over the first fret depends on the saddle height. With the correct nut height, action at the first fret should be about 12% of the action at the 12th fret. In other words, unless you like a 12th fret action of 1/4", then 0.030" at the first fret is way too high.

[GreenWoodworker]

Umm ok, so how do i figure what to cut the nut slots to? I dont just measure the first fret height and then cut the slots to that do i?

Man at Taylor we were probably doing it all wrong, guessing at the saddle height, then cutting the nuts and sliding whatever feeler gauges under the first fret they told us to use (forgot). I guess it really would change with the saddle height. The sad thing is we never even would check the action, heck i didnt even know what action was till i wasnt working there anymore.

[GreenWoodworker]

So i really just cut the slots to the first fret height?

I think the .30'' + first fret was probably that height of the top of the nut?

[GreenWoodworker]

What ive been looking for: Good info for how to do a nut (for anyone coming across this post)

http://www.lutherie.net/nuts.html

[murrmac123]

That article of Paul Hostetter's is indeed full of useful info, but it doesn't tell you how to cut the slot to the right height.

Basically, you measure the height of the first fret (all frets should be the same height of course, but sometimes they aren't if they have been inexpertly dressed), set your feeler gauges to that height (adding on a few thou* if you want) and use the stacked gauges as a depth stop for your nut file.

*thou = thousandth of an inch ... I think you call it a "mil" over there ...

[LouieAtienza]

Originally Posted by GreenWoodworker

So i really just cut the slots to the first fret height?

I think the .30'' + first fret was probably that height of the top of the nut?

Provided the fretboard itself is coplanar with the fret tops. You can start the slots, fret a string at the 4th fret, and note the gap between the string and 1st fret. You then just file down and check until the string almost kisses the 1st fret. Again this assumes the frets are dressed reasonably level. I've worked on a few Kramer and Jackson electric guitars that have the scarf joint under the 2nd fret or so, and sometimes that joint slips, causing the 1st fret to be slightly lower than the 2nd. I know of no acoustic built this way, but just to point the importance of checking the fretboard and frets first before doing nut work.

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

The correct nut height is the same as the frets.

Slight disagreement on this statement, John.

If the nut slots are cut to the exact same height as the frets, open strings WILL buzz. Certain strings will buzz worse than others. G string is easy to buzz, as is low E.

I set the nut slots a slight amount higher than the fret plane, with the lowest slots nearly matching fret height for 1st and 2nd strings, then successively a bit extra for 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th strings.

Open notes vibrate more freely than fretted notes, so need a slightly higher setting to avoid buzzing.

[WaddyT]

I dunno, Ned. If that was the case, guitars with a 0 fret wouldn't work.

[John Arnold]

If it buzzes when the nut is the same height as the frets, then it will also buzz when you put a capo on the first fret. The next fret clearance is the same. Another way to look at it is that a capo on the first fret creates a new nut......which is exactly the same height as the frets.
There are two methods I use to check the nut height. The first is to press the string down on the second fret, and check the clearance over the first fret. It should be minimal.
The second way is more useful when cutting or lowering the slots. I use a razor saw blade to do a test cut, and I flip it over, using the back side as a straightedge. This is placed in the bottom of the slot, and rests on the second fret. Once again, I am looking for minimal clearance over the first fret. Once the thin test cut is made with the razor saw (which has a 0.010" kerf), I widen the slot with a gauged nut file, cutting until the sawn slot disappears. Then I know the nut height is perfect....without even tightening the string.

[pops]

Fretting at the first fret and looking a clearance at the second fret will give you a height for the nut to first fret. Usually i go ever slightly lower as there is less vibration closer to the nut. The low E may need the same height as the second fret distance depending on scale length and string gauge.

[Pat Foster]

John, that's a great tip.

Here's what I do. Sharpen a pencil then cut it to about 3", discarding the eraser end. On a belt sander, VERY CAREFULLY sand off one side of the pencil along its length, so that only about half remains. It should resemble half of a hot dog bun. With the nut in place and the strings off, lay the pencil along the tops of the first few frets—two frets is best—and draw a line along back face of the nut. If the pencil was sharp and the sanding done right, it will extrapolate the plane of the 1st and 2nd frets onto the nut. File the slots until the pencil mark is JUST filed away under each slot. I leave a little extra under the low E for dropped tunings.

Hope that's not too confusing.

Pat

[Frank Ford]

With apology for the dated photos (digital cameras weren't much in 1998) here are some articles that include the info you need:

ALL ABOUT NUTS:

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musi...uts/nuts1.html

CHECKING ACTION AT THE NUT:

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musi...nutaction.html

SETTING NUT ACTION:

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luth...ut/setnut.html

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by WaddyT

I dunno, Ned. If that was the case, guitars with a 0 fret wouldn't work.

A fair point Waddy. Food for thought. Thanks.

FWIW, however, when feasible, I set zero fret guitars the same way as a standard nutted guitar. Also, FWIW, I haven't experienced any super sounding zero fret guitars. (Not saying they don't exist, just that they are a rarity.) What does this mean... just that the soundboards of zero fret guitars are usually not as responsive, so owners of these guitars will likely not be pushing them as hard as a super sounding guitar that is well setup to allow for heavy playing.

[dhalbert]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

I use a razor saw blade to do a test cut, and I flip it over, using the back side as a straightedge.

John, what razor saw blade do you have that doesn't have a reinforcement along the back (like X-Acto saw blades have)? All I can find is this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gyros-5-1...6008/204627232. Thanks.