#1
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How shave bridge ?
I want to shave my bridge a tad down. I guess I made it a bit high.
It is glued on the top, not loose anymore. What tool is recommendable for that kind of work? It´s a selfmade ebony moustache bridge.
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Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#2
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If it were .e, being it's a moustache bridge, I would use a hard block and sandpaper, working up to finish grit. I would also mask the top with cardboard, taped down, and keep cleaning to remove dust and grit...
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#3
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Masking the top with cardboard seems an important hint.
Maybe a delta sander will do what I want without straining my forearms too much changing from coarse to fine grit. It can be used carefully so nothing will be damaged in a rush. I´ll give it a try.
__________________
Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#4
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I usually use a block plane but the sand paper would be safer especially for a moustache bridge.
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#5
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if it's a typical gibson style/like bridge the i'd block sand depending upon how much has to be removed. hopefully you don't have a lot of material to remove.
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#6
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I´ve gotten a bit unsecure about shaving the bridge.
Nothing hurries me so I will think more about that. My intention is to get the strings a tad more down to the fingerboard especially on the higher part of the neck. I might lift the neck and its "tonge" slightly higher by adding a shallow piece of ebony between the end of the fb and the top of the guitar. Seems to be the easiest alternative compared with a change of the neck angle...
__________________
Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#7
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Quote:
Power sanding the bridge works just like bowing a violin. By the way, sanding the bridge is not usually the correct approach. You need to keep the strings at least 7/16" above the top, and if sanding the bridge gets the strings closer than that, it's not a good idea. The implication in the OP was that you made the bridge too thick, and needed sanding to get down to design thickness, which is fine. Sanding the bridge should be reserved to guitars that are not worth a neck reset to make them playable. I've done it to a couple of Fender acoustics.
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#8
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Quote:
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#9
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Yes, I´m going to think about that thoroughly.
__________________
Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#10
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If you decide you need to lower the bridge, you can use a scraper. It is easily controllable and leaves a finished surface.
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THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE |
#11
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I gave up shaving. Instead I lifted the neck plus fingerboard a tad (2mm) with a thin piece of ebony.now I can let the bridge as is and avoid the procedure of changing the angle of the neck/body. It doesn't look so bad.
__________________
Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |