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  #16  
Old 12-01-2014, 07:16 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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I'm trying to fix it myself. I sanded away and feathered the edges on the cracked poly and did a little pushing and prodding as carefully as I could.



The point of impact (the larger "oval") is still misaligned by 1/32" at the crack nearest to the tape measure so I have to find a better way to move it back but I'm still optimistic. After that I'm tempted to sand the whole guitar down and use Maquires to buff it to a gloss. In the meantime, my DIY build is getting more play time at home and when I play in church I ask my partner to borrow his Fender (all solid mahogany/Sitka GA with a UST) and it's been working. This Sunday is our annual big advent concert (our entire congregation contributes) and I don't think my Larrivee will be ready given that the holiday season is in full swing. On the bright side, I still have two other guitars and a reamer so I'm thinking of buying at least one JJB Prestige pickup.
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  #17  
Old 12-05-2014, 02:19 AM
Dan Bombliss Dan Bombliss is offline
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This is no big gig! The situation sucks, but the good news is it couldn't have broken in a better way. The sides are **** near indestructable, and cracks are nothing but cosmetic. You can chalk this up as cosmetic flaws, and a little reminder that I'm sure you'll smile about years on down.

Glue up the damage cracks, and push them back into place. This is a decent situation for thin superglue, otherwise you can dilute some tightbond with a little bit of water, and massage it into the cracks.

Just use thin linen cloth on the inside (old sheet and table cloths are great!). Hide glue is my choice for linen patches, as it's extremely reversable (mostly only imporant on vintage repairs), but hide glue works well. For the sides, strips of linen that get too long get hard to manage, so 5-6" at the most maybe, you can feel it out.

Cut a cloth strip, lay it out, and saturate it in glue. Rub it in on both sides. Once it's massaged and glue is in all of the crosshairs, put your hand in and stick it to the backside of the cracks. The glued cloths dry extremely rigid, and they provide an impressive amount of structure to prevent the cracks from opening or moving, with minimal weight. The biggest perks by far, is that no clamps are required, ideal for a guy at home with limited repair tools. Even magnets and cauls are much harder to line up than the cloth, so it's an easy great fix solution.

-Dan
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  #18  
Old 12-05-2014, 08:30 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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I'm embarrassed to say but I can't get my hand all the way up inside. I must have arms like Popeye but I've had to use the butt end of a pen to even touch the inside. That's my major hold up on this. I really can't "feel" the inside of the cracks so that I can push the indentation out.
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  #19  
Old 01-24-2015, 09:52 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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It's been months and I've been hemming and hawing. Meanwhile the RH in my house has dipped into the low 20th percentile. The positive aspect of this is that where I couldn't work the indentation back out I now can and with pressure from behind I can get it all flush. I think I'm going to attempt it in sections though. Does that sound like it would work? Are cleats necessary?
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(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023)
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  #20  
Old 01-24-2015, 10:53 AM
clinchriver clinchriver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwakatak View Post
It's been months and I've been hemming and hawing. Meanwhile the RH in my house has dipped into the low 20th percentile. The positive aspect of this is that where I couldn't work the indentation back out I now can and with pressure from behind I can get it all flush. I think I'm going to attempt it in sections though. Does that sound like it would work? Are cleats necessary?
Sounds like a well fitting curved clamping caul to keep things in place is in order. Good Luck
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