How long before strings steeach and stay in tune?

[WaddyT]

I always recommend these two items on Dave Schramm's website for stringing classical guitars.
http://schrammguitars.com/stringingmethod.html
http://schrammguitars.com/tutorial.html

Very clean and tight method that can't really be improved on for a 6 hole tie.

[joeguam]

Originally Posted by WaddyT

http://schrammguitars.com/tutorial.html

Thanks for posting this! Awesome info!

...
Joe

[hesson11]

I really haven't had much of a problem with this since I started doing two things:

• Leaving NO slack when rolling the strings onto the tuning rollers. The ENTIRE length of the string has to stretch, and the more string you wrap around the rollers, the longer the settling-in process will take.
• Using the Todd Tipton stretching method: http://toddtipton.homestead.com/newstringsarticle.html

I'm pretty sure you will find these things to make a huge improvement.
-Bob

[mustache79]

QUOTE=Bern;3310996]Could you post a photo of the bridge and the headstock ?[/QUOTE]

Next time I'll tie at the tuning post as well and leave less string to wind up. See anything wrong here? Thanks

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[dwalton]

Ya - right off...

1. Your first string tie-in looks like it could slip through any second and give your top a ding just behind the bridge. If that were my guitar, I'd take that one off right away and re-tie it with more of a tail, and I'd also melt the string end to form a ball in case it does slip.
2. The 2nd and 3rd strings are also cut a bit too close to the bridge - they might slip at some point as well.
3. String 4/5/6 are "overdone" - they don't need the twists that the nylon strings require.
4. ALL of the strings have far too many wraps on the tuning pegs. It's just gonna make it so they take a long time to stretch in.

I just got done with a standard-style restring on my classical the other day - I'll go take a pic and post it. Nothing fancy - just solid tie-ins at the bridge.

http://s1250.beta.photobucket.com/us...b8462.jpg.html

[mustache79]

Originally Posted by dwalton

Ya - right off...

1. Your first string tie-in looks like it could slip through any second and give your top a ding just behind the bridge. If that were my guitar, I'd take that one off right away and re-tie it with more of a tail, and I'd also melt the string end to form a ball in case it does slip.
2. The 2nd and 3rd strings are also cut a bit too close to the bridge - they might slip at some point as well.
3. String 4/5/6 are "overdone" - they don't need the twists that the nylon strings require.
4. ALL of the strings have far too many wraps on the tuning pegs. It's just gonna make it so they take a long time to stretch in.

I just got done with a standard-style restring on my classical the other day - I'll go take a pic and post it. Nothing fancy - just solid tie-ins at the bridge.

http://s1250.beta.photobucket.com/us...b8462.jpg.html

Thanks for the tips. I just strung it up like it came from the factory, so maybe they as well didn't do an ideal job. I'm getting a new set of Oasis GPX Carbons in the next few days. I'll pay more attention to detail next time. Thanks guys

[dwalton]

One last thought - when I do a classical string change, I take a piece of printer paper and fold it into quarters, and the tape it directly up against the bridge between the bridge and the butt of the guitar. I leave it there for the following 24 hours during and after a string change. When I initially install the strings, I leave the long hanging ends for the first 24 hours or so as the strings stretch. After about a day, when I see that they aren't slipping, I trim both ends of each string, and then I carefully melt the balls on the nylon strings with the paper guard still on the guitar. Then I leave the paper on there for a couple more hours or so just to make sure. I've never had a problem doing it this way. The last thing I want is some big divot under the bridge where a nylon string slipped through and slammed the top.

[mtdmind]

Originally Posted by littlewing137

squeeze and pinch the 1st and 4th, 2nd and 5th, 3rd and 6th strings together so they touch several times. No particular order. This will stretch them out.

I used to stretch my strings like that and found that the intonation on them tended to go out. I think the strings became out of shape. After I stopped tugging on them my intonation problems went away.

[dwalton]

Originally Posted by mustache79

Thanks for the tips. I just strung it up like it came from the factory, so maybe they as well didn't do an ideal job. I'm getting a new set of Oasis GPX Carbons in the next few days. I'll pay more attention to detail next time. Thanks guys

Also, carbon nylons can be more slippery than regular nylons, and as such, they can have more of a tendency to slip out of their bridge tie-ins and damage the top. Another reason for the melted ball end...

[WaddyT]

This is my tie on the headstock. Note that the strings all roll to the outside of the slot. There is a reason for that. It puts the greatest tension on the part of the roller that is closest to the strongest part of the tuning machine. It helps the machines to last longer, operate more smoothly, and cuts down on binding of the rollers against the inside hole of the slot. I also try to end up with close to 3 full turns of the strings on the post. I usually end up with much more on the trebles due to the extensive stretching. Another point that is pretty important is to always melt a little ball on the end of the treble strings. It may save a string ding on the top at some time.

[mustache79]

well it's been 8 days and my strings are finally staying in tune for along periods of playing time.

Thanks for helping the classical noob!

[alma_shortscale]

Originally Posted by WaddyT

This is my tie on the headstock. Note that the strings all roll to the outside of the slot. There is a reason for that. It puts the greatest tension on the part of the roller that is closest to the strongest part of the tuning machine. It helps the machines to last longer, operate more smoothly, and cuts down on binding of the rollers against the inside hole of the slot. I also try to end up with close to 3 full turns of the strings on the post. I usually end up with much more on the trebles due to the extensive stretching. Another point that is pretty important is to always melt a little ball on the end of the treble strings. It may save a string ding on the top at some time.

Waddy, that is a beautiful headstock. I love the design at the top.

[joeguam]

Originally Posted by mustache79

well it's been 8 days and my strings are finally staying in tune for along periods of playing time.

Thanks for helping the classical noob!

Post some pics of your final method for everyone to see. Be sure to post the headstock and the bridge.

...
Joe

[WaddyT]

Originally Posted by alma_shortscale

Waddy, that is a beautiful headstock. I love the design at the top.

Thank you! It's just a variation on an old traditional shape. Just had to find a way to make it unique.

[mustache79]

Originally Posted by joeguam

Post some pics of your final method for everyone to see. Be sure to post the headstock and the bridge.

...
Joe

I didn't change anything since the original photos aside from melting the ends of the nylon strings into balls.

My next resting will include less wrap arounf the tuning machine and more nylon string left behind the bridge to make it easier to melt the ends.

Thanks again everyone.