#1
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Protecting solder joints (superglue?)
When making solder joints in electric guitars (i.e. connecting wires to POTs, etc.) would it be a good idea to "coat" the joint with something that would prevent oxidation? First thing that came to mind is superglue.
Thanks!
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#2
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No. Solder is tin and lead. Make a sound mechanical connection, apply heat to that connection, avoid movement until the solder cools.
Fran
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E ho`okani pila kakou ma Kaleponi Slack Key in California - www.kaleponi.com My YouTube clips The Homebrewed Music Blog |
#3
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Hi Fran,
I could be wrong but I think he meant after the solder connection is made, to protect it from oxidation. Not necessary of course but that's how I took the question. JB |
#4
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Fran is correct...
Tin & lead are pretty noble metals (as in, not active, like aluminum or magnesium are); the tabs on the pots are tinned as well. Long term (as in, decades) the issue would be bimetallic corrosion between dissimilar metals, such as the lead/tin solder vs. the steel on the back of the pots. Though, there's not much of a difference in the galvanic coupling of these metals either. You'd have to leave the backplate cover off and set the thing outside on the porch of your oceanfront home in Kure Beach NC every day (for that salt spray effect) to see any corrosion short term. Superglue absorbs water, so it actually could make the connection corrode sooner than if you'd left it bare, since you would basically be setting up a situation where the solder / pot tab gets a steady amount of moisture. So make good solder joints, and don't use the guitar as a canoe paddle, and you'll be good to go
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#5
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One step that gets neglected, is cleaning the flux off the joint after its made.
Assuming that rosin-core solder is used, and not acid-core plumbing solder (the kiss-of-death for an electical joint), a Q-Tip dipped in 91% alcohol (available at any drug store) works very well for removing the flux and the oxides and other impurities the flux has absorbed in the soldering process. All fluxes release chemicals at soldering temperature that attack the solder and base metal to some degree. Removing all the flux and generally keeping the circuit clean and dry, go a long way toward extending the life of solder joints.
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Scott 2002 810ce LTD, sitka/cocobolo/koa 307 Big Baby Hofner HF11 (stolen from me, Dec. 2013) Lace Acela (stolen from me, Dec. 2013) Hondo Banjo Epiphone Masterbuilt banjo (stolen from me, Dec. 2013) First Act Dulcimer Oscar Schmidt Silvertone Autoharp La Suprema Ukulele First Act Lap Harp I'll keep buying guitars, until I find one I know how to play! |
#6
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Quote:
Fran
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E ho`okani pila kakou ma Kaleponi Slack Key in California - www.kaleponi.com My YouTube clips The Homebrewed Music Blog |
#7
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yes, i meant "cover the cooled joint to protect", but yes, by now i understand that superglue is bad idea.
it was really just a passing thought, i should've rushed to post it. but somebody mentioned dielectric grease and wax paraphine (candles) and that sounds good - more for isolation to prevent accidental contacts rather than against corrosion. thanks.
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I am a musician trapped in a lazy bum's body |
#8
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Parrafin? Grease? don't use either of them.
Grease doesn't set up, and dirt sticks to it. Can't see that very much dirt would stick on grease if the cover plate is on, but any dirt will attach to the grease. There is also the mess factor of both; they'll both suck into the wood if you spill it. (I cannot visualize how one could neatly coat connections made in the cavity with parrafin.) Someday you'll have to mess with the grease and it'll muck up the cavity & components as you try to wipe it off. Coating a metal isn't always the best thing to do... in many cases, for low corrosive environments, leaving a metal alone so it can stay dry is best... If you make good solid connections and route the wires neatly, there is zero chance of accidental contacts. FWIW, Pickups are dipped in parrafin, but this is when they are out of the guitar, and the reason they are dipped is to immobilize any loose windings to avoid microphonics (wierd noises that happen when a loose pickup winding vibrates). Other than that, I've not heard about using parrafin in guitar electronics. I do believe you are overthinking all this. Do the solder joints, button up the cavity, and be done with it.
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#9
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No. Someday you (or the next owner) will want to take that joint apart, and having some gunk on it will contaminate it when it get resoldered. It won't oxidize on the inside, where it counts. Leave it alone.
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#10
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Quote:
Dang, that was the main reason I bought a rainsong!
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Mike Takamine EAN15C w/ Palathetic pickup system and CT4B onboard preamp Takamine GN93CE w/ TK-40 preamp RainSong DR1000 w/ Element Onboard pickup system Rainsong JM3000 12 string jumbo w/ Element Onboard pickup system Yamaha FG345 w/ Fishman Matrix II www.donohoeandgrimes.com |
#11
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I can't believe you guys are still at it - I finished the guitar yesterday , no superglue, no grease, just clean solder. I just figured - I'll want to replace the wiring in a few years anyway, so why even bother. Likely I won't use any coating on the new wiring either.
thanks for your input!
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I am a musician trapped in a lazy bum's body |
#12
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Well let me know how that works out Also, I am not sure if Rainsongs float, so maintain a good grip on it while paddling
Hey gearjunky, glad you finished your project. You want opinions, opinions we got ... & anyways, you asked
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A Maverick Radar Guides Fate |
#13
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I've been in the Electronics field since 1971 and no one ever coats a solder joint, except perhaps using heat shrink tubing.
Why try to fix something thats never been broken?
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"Hey I may play slow, but I sure am imprecise" Martin HD-28, Carvin Cobalt 750, Fender American Strat, Fender American Jazz Bass V. |