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  #1  
Old 04-21-2017, 03:00 PM
SnowManSnow SnowManSnow is offline
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Default Pore fill with CA Glue? unwise?

I'm contemplating using CA glue to pore fill my current build. Right now I'm rehearsing the whole process (pretty much) on a scrap length of the same wood I used.
The finish will be a french polish with royal laq using seal laq as the sealer.
I contacted the maker of royal laq and asked about adhesion issues, and his response was that the only thing to be careful of is that the seal laq isn't sanded through, so that it is a barrier between any ca glue and the royal laq.
so i'm thinking the process would be... CA glue rubbed in / spread. dry time and sand smooth.
If the pores are filled move to seal laq.

My concern is : will the ca shrink? or will it rip underneath the top coats? Now, the other thought is to sand down to the wood so that the ca isn't covering the surface, only the pores..
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Old 04-21-2017, 03:04 PM
redir redir is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowManSnow View Post
I'm contemplating using CA glue to pore fill my current build. Right now I'm rehearsing the whole process (pretty much) on a scrap length of the same wood I used.
The finish will be a french polish with royal laq using seal laq as the sealer.
I contacted the maker of royal laq and asked about adhesion issues, and his response was that the only thing to be careful of is that the seal laq isn't sanded through, so that it is a barrier between any ca glue and the royal laq.
so i'm thinking the process would be... CA glue rubbed in / spread. dry time and sand smooth.
If the pores are filled move to seal laq.

My concern is : will the ca shrink? or will it rip underneath the top coats? Now, the other thought is to sand down to the wood so that the ca isn't covering the surface, only the pores..
imo that's how fillers work. It's what I always do anyway. CA will work but it's pretty nasty stuff. They do make a CA that is not so harsh on the eyes and lungs but still, do it outside or under a hood and wear a mask.
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Old 04-21-2017, 03:07 PM
SnowManSnow SnowManSnow is offline
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I also saw a video where someone recommended rubbing it in with a cloth.. instead of just moving it along the surface, I'm assuming that would give a MUCH thinner and easier to level fill
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Old 04-21-2017, 03:19 PM
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I've used CA to patch/fix/fill numerous repairs in mahogany (a very open grain wood) and I ran into some problems.

The CA always pools in the large voids and hardens. Then the finish stain doesn't stain there and I ended up with an exaggerated contrast - too much contrast.
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Old 04-21-2017, 03:38 PM
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Maybe try egg whites? Less toxic.
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Old 04-21-2017, 03:55 PM
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People do it so it must work.

I was experimenting a bit with it. I think you need to seal the wood first before applying the CA. Just a wash coat.
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:01 PM
redir redir is offline
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I would think you would want to rub it in with sand paper so as to create a dust slurry that would pack in the holes. I never tried it but that's the way a filler like pumice or eggwhite would work.
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Old 04-21-2017, 06:47 PM
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Sounds like a recipe for one heck of a mess.

I think it's meant to be used more like an epoxy fill, but with a faster setting time.
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Old 04-21-2017, 06:48 PM
SnowManSnow SnowManSnow is offline
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I"ve also seen people do it that way. there are several "how to vids" on youtube, but i haven't seen one that has any age to it, so i feel like it is just people experimenting.
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:37 PM
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Well, as you're already doing...test on scrap. You'll know pretty fast.
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:53 PM
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Did a oak fretboard with CA, other than needing a lot of CA and it is not plesent on the eyes and lungs, no real problem with it otherwise. Sort of squeegeed it around wit an old credit card or vapor barrier poly (not much sticks to it) no problems. Not bad for a fretboard as it is hard, don't see any reason to do a whole guitar, would rather use one of the other methods.
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Last edited by printer2; 04-22-2017 at 07:11 AM. Reason: Grammar
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:52 PM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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I would not recommend it.

CA when dry is very hard and brittle, for a wood that moves like a top, in small amounts yes, but I would envisage a top that has been done in it, having nothing but spider cracks within a year through the finish.

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Old 04-21-2017, 09:06 PM
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One does not generally porefill the top...

Brandon, have you tried epoxy?

The only advantage I can see in using CA instead of epoxy is speed of drying time.

Any way you slice it, porefill sucks.
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:15 PM
SnowManSnow SnowManSnow is offline
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Ed, my first 2 guitars were done using a waster based filler from LMII, can't remember the name. I'm not a huge fan, as I can't get it to work just right. I haven't done an epoxy yet. I'm not opposed to it. I'm just feeling out options. At this point everything I do is new, so I'm just kinda trying to figure out what I like and how to major in it.
Epoxy definitely seems to be the standard..
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Old 04-21-2017, 10:04 PM
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Well then, I'd suggest trying it once at least. West Systems seems to be the preferred choice, 206 and 207 I think it is. I also enjoyed System 3 until they stopped shipping to Canada.

Epoxy has a very long open time (if mixed right) which allows you to really massage it into the pores. But, the very long open time also means it'll pick up a lot of nits if it's not done in a clean, dust free environment.

Epoxy also doesn't shrink back, though it still usually takes three sessions to be done.

I don't recommend sanding back to wood either. It tends to open up new pores.
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