Cleated tops

[M Sarad]

Are cleats on the top seam in vogue with builders?

When the Merrill separated Alan Perlman put 2 on .

It had no negative juju on the tone.

[mb propsom]

I don't know if they're in vogue with makers, but in my experience they're completely unnecessary. If a top has been joined properly, it should hold together without them. Now, for seam repairs, I've found that cleats are invaluable.

[theEdwinson]

If your plates are impeccably jointed, and not clamped so tightly that you starve the glue joint, and you are using the right glue, cleats aren't really necessary. If the plate is joined correctly, and you try to break it, the glue line should hold, while the adjacent wood will break.
That said, adding some small, cross-grain spruce or cedar cleats certainly won't cause any diminution of tone, and may give you some priceless peace of mind.
I use 'em. Just because.
My $0.02.

[Howard Klepper]

I use diamond shaped spruce cleats all the time. I run the grain on a bias to the top's grain. The diamond shape avoids stress risers along the grain.

The center of the top is where the drying/shrinkage stress is most concentrated. What I've observed over the years is that supposed center seam separations are often really wood cracks immediately adjacent to the seam. The glue joint, being stronger than wood, is actually a stress riser and the wood right next to it is what yields. I like to cleat any joint that is inside the waist; outside the waist there is enough support from the sides that it doesn't seem to matter.

Tone is not at all affected. It is a miniscule amount of mass added.

[Tim McKnight]

IME, Its dependent on the bracing pattern and where the guitar will eventually go. I have found they are particularly useful on steel string fan bracing. I also have used them when shipping guitars to locales or countries with high humidity like Florida, Louisiana or some Asian areas.

[Jimmy Caldwell]

I use them on hardwood tops (Koa & Mahogany), but I've not found them necessary on Spruce.