Taylor Truss Rod Adjustment

xtremekustomz · #1 04-28-2016, 03:21 PM

I felt that my new Taylor 514ce was a little harder to play than I would like so I got out my metal ruler and noticed that the neck had a bow in it so I tightened the truss rod until it was straight. Now the guitar plays wonderfully but when I dig in to get some volume the strings slap on the frets causing it to buzz. I plan on taking it to a luthier to get a setup done this weekend but what is the fix for this issue? I know if the action gets too low it will do this anyway. Should the neck be straight across all the frets or should there be a bow?

SpruceTop · #2 04-28-2016, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xtremekustomz

I felt that my new Taylor 514ce was a little harder to play than I would like so I got out my metal ruler and noticed that the neck had a bow in it so I tightened the truss rod until it was straight. Now the guitar plays wonderfully but when I dig in to get some volume the strings slap on the frets causing it to buzz. I plan on taking it to a luthier to get a setup done this weekend but what is the fix for this issue? I know if the action gets too low it will do this anyway. Should the neck be straight across all the frets or should there be a bow?

Turn the truss rod counterclockwise (reverse of the way you turned it) about one-flat (1/6 turn) of the hex-head nut. See if that takes care of the buzzing. The idea is to have a bit of bow in the neck, probably not as much as you had originally. You may have to turn it one way or the other a bit more of a turn to get it where you like it and usually you can notice a bit of change in the neck-relief at a half-flat worth of a turn.

P.S. Although it may not be really necessary, I always bump the truss rod a tad of a turn clockwise after I've gone in a counterclockwise direction to make sure the rod is secured in a tightening direction.

Earl49 · #3 04-28-2016, 03:36 PM

^ What Sprucetop said. A bit of relief (bow or curvature) is generally needed to allow the string to vibrate in its normal arc. Otherwise you often get buzzing at some frets.

There is always a compromise between low easy action, and freedom from buzzing when you "dig in" and make the string move in a wider arc.

Glennwillow · #4 04-28-2016, 03:43 PM

I agree with Sprucetop -- you generally need a little neck relief (or bow) to avoid string buzzing, though it might not be much. Many guitars work with 0.006-010" of neck relief. A piece of paper is about 0.003" thick, so this is not a lot of bow.

Check out this link: http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luth...buzzintro.html

- Glenn

xtremekustomz · #5 04-28-2016, 03:59 PM

I will check that website out too. I do notice there is a "rattling" sound coming from the saddle it sounds like too. What causes that?

Earl49 · #6 04-28-2016, 04:01 PM

It's probably wiring inside for the pickup or something to do with the endpin / jack, or perhaps the battery loose in its holder. The saddle should be a reasonably tight friction fit for best tone, and should not be able to rattle in its slot, especially while under string tension.

darylcrisp · #7 04-28-2016, 04:06 PM

a good basic setup will check the nut slot depths also-if any of these are too high, there can be a stiff feel to the action.

relief and action settings are much like your car seat, all of us differ in how we like our car seat to fit(up, down, lumbar support, thigh support, back and forth). on a longer ride an improperly set seat will cause you discomfort, same thing with the guitar and its setup.

d

SpruceTop · #8 04-28-2016, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xtremekustomz

I will check that website out too. I do notice there is a "rattling" sound coming from the saddle it sounds like too. What causes that?

Do you mean a rattling sound or a twingy/twanging sound riding on top of the string tone that may occur especially when you strike the open 3rd and 4th strings? If it happens when you strike the strings, it could be the Elixir strings are causing it or you may need an adjustment of your nut slots. If the sound is actually coming from the bridgesaddle, it may be one of the sensor cams is a bit loose but probably not. Try shaking your guitar, it may be a wire-guide has come loose from the inside of the guitar.

P.s. I've noticed the top of the bridgesaddle is quite a sharp edge where the 3rd and 4th strings cross over it. Sometimes I get a twingy/tanging sound riding on top of the string tone of these strings.

JackB1 · #9 03-09-2018, 08:32 AM

Do I need the special truss rod tool to adjust my Taylor's truss rod?

I tried to loosen the 3 tiny screws on top and couldn't get them to budge with my tiny eyeglass screwdriver set. How can I get these screws off??? And then what will I need for the truss rod itself?

Thanks

B. Adams · #10 03-09-2018, 08:48 AM

You need a better screwdriver! At least one with a larger handle. Just try not to strip the screw heads.

I can't remember exactly what size the Taylor truss rod nuts are, but I think it's 1/4". You can use a 1/4" drive socket with an extension, or an actual truss rod tool.

KevWind · #11 03-09-2018, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xtremekustomz

I will check that website out too. I do notice there is a "rattling" sound coming from the saddle it sounds like too. What causes that?

There used to be page on Taylors website about neck adjustment that confirms what people here are saying about a very slight up curve/bow

GBS · #12 03-09-2018, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B. Adams

You need a better screwdriver! At least one with a larger handle. Just try not to strip the screw heads.

I can't remember exactly what size the Taylor truss rod nuts are, but I think it's 1/4". You can use a 1/4" drive socket with an extension, or an actual truss rod tool.

I can confirm both! - Your screw driver "end" is also probably too small, which will promote slipping and stripping the head of the screw.

JackB1 · #13 03-09-2018, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B. Adams

You need a better screwdriver! At least one with a larger handle. Just try not to strip the screw heads.

I can't remember exactly what size the Taylor truss rod nuts are, but I think it's 1/4". You can use a 1/4" drive socket with an extension, or an actual truss rod tool.

OK great. Thanks!

vindibona1 · #14 03-09-2018, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JackB1

Do I need the special truss rod tool to adjust my Taylor's truss rod?

I tried to loosen the 3 tiny screws on top and couldn't get them to budge with my tiny eyeglass screwdriver set. How can I get these screws off??? And then what will I need for the truss rod itself?

Thanks

Yes... You need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Guitar...uss+rod+wrench
You'd think with guitars that cost thousands of $$ that don't use standard allen wrenches Taylor would provide a truss rod wrench that probably costs them all of $1.50?

A Phillips #1 screw driver will remove the screws. You'll need a little more torque (at least initially) than a small eyeglass screw driver will provide. Be careful not to over-tighten when replacing the screws. Also... go 1/8 turn at a time. You'll be surprised at how much you can change the action/relief with such a small adjustment.

Another small suggestion... Get yourself a relatively strong magnet and magnetize the screw driver. Then use the magnet itself to hold onto the screws as you make the adjustments so you don't lose them. The magnetized screw driver will help you both remove and replace the screws.

GBS · #15 03-09-2018, 09:30 AM

Taylor no longer has their actual detailed instructions on-line, I'm guessing that the "factory relief" may vary on different models. But they do have this: https://www.taylorguitars.com/suppor...od-adjustments

See the above, what they don't mention is that you push down on a string on the first fret and at the same time on the 14th fret. Then measure the gap between the string and the top of the sixth fret. From the factory, they used to (and maybe still do) set it at .010" gap. All this per the info packed with my guitar. But that is not magical. If you want to go lower by tightening the nut, and you can avoid buzz - go ahead.

If you get buzz on approximately frets 1-5, you need more relief. If the buzz is on the high frets, then you need to raise the saddle.

There is some interplay - so lowering the relief will also lower the action at the 12th fret a bit. Adjusting the nut is not the best way to adjust action, it is only for relief, but you can play a little with it to see if you get improvement in both. On one of mine, the first place it starts to buzz when reducing relief is in the upper frets....but the action at that point is very low. So I just back off the nut until the buzz goes away.

Most people set the relief so it is just a tiny bit more than where they get string buzz when playing.

My guitars tend to change over the course of the year, due to temp and humidity, so I have just left the truss rod cover off, and a couple of times a year have to give them a 1/8th-1/4 turn in one direction or the other. They do take a day to fully settle into the new tension - so don't go chasing it if things don't seem to change much right after you tighten/loosen.