Raising saddle material/method

[DoryDavis]

Hi, I want to raise the saddle on my Maton a bit, to see if that will give me better tone. I've already had ramps cut in the bridge (professionally).
I'd like to be able to go right back to what I have if I want to. So maybe I'll put some slivers of something under the saddle, to see how that feels/sounds. If I like it I can have a new saddle cut to that height.

The ust is super sensitive though, whatever I use has to be flat or the strings will not be amplified evenly.

What is the best material and method for an amatuer to try this at home? Thanks

[3 chord]

Why did you ramp the bridge, was the break angle too shallow?

I've used plastic or a guitar string under the saddle until I cut a new one but I have not had a guitar with an under the saddle pickup.

[Rodger Knox]

Cardstock is probably your best bet, but with a UST the tone may be significantly different with shims. I doubt you could get a very good idea of the change in tone by adding shims, but you might.

A better test would be to get a taller saddle that you could sand down to the height you want.

[roylor4]

Get a new saddle and use the current one as a template for height. Buy some sandpaper and your in business.

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by DoryDavis

...What is the best material and method for an amatuer to try this at home? Thanks

Hi DoryDavis...

My luthier needed to raise only one end of my saddle once, so he cut and glued a piece of hardwood to the bottom of it and then sanded it to the proper thickness and angle. Worked for years just fine...

I asked the actual builder of the guitar if that was 'proper' and advisable since I'd never heard of this method (it was handbuilt) and he approved, and declared it a viable means of raising saddles as effective as cutting new ones. Sure beat cutting credit cards with an exacto knife (like I used to do).

Bob Colosi sells a shim kit which is designed with that approach in mind. He also sells individual shims. The kit has several sizes of shims and super glue if I recall correctly. A quick call to Bob would answer it...

Shims toward bottom of page - CliCk

[Brucebubs]

Originally Posted by roylor4

Get a new saddle and use the current one as a template for height. Buy some sandpaper and your in business.

I totally agree. Bone saddle blanks are pretty cheap.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-pcs-Bon...3052396&_uhb=1
Keep your original saddle. Try some bone or ebony or rosewood bridge pins too. You can always go back to the original set-up if something doesn`t work. No harm done.

[DoryDavis]

3 chord: yes that break angle was too shallow. And the ramping helped with volume and even the intonation it seems.

Thanks for the great responses. I'll try to decide to
1. get a shim kit from Bob
2. or get a new saddle and sand it down
3. or have a pro put in a new saddle

I'm going to do something, I like the action and tone but feel like there is more to be had, I know we have all had that feeling ha

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by DoryDavis

3 chord: yes that break angle was too shallow. And the ramping helped with volume and even the intonation it seems.

Thanks for the great responses. I'll try to decide to
1. get a shim kit from Bob
2. or get a new saddle and sand it down
3. or have a pro put in a new saddle

I'm going to do something, I like the action and tone but feel like there is more to be had, I know we have all had that feeling ha

Hi Dory

If the saddle was already compensated for intonation (that would be visible as a sculpted upper edge of the saddle which moves the break point of strings forward or backward of center of the saddle) then you need to be sure that the new saddle is filed/cut/sanded to mimic the original.

One advantage of the wood/glue/shimmed saddle is that it's a reversible process. Another is you don't negate any compensation work already done.

New Colosi Saddles are compensated exactly like the factory compensation - and he sells Maton versions.

[DoryDavis]

LJ Guitar:

That occurred to me. If I simply put shims in without glue, would that give me an idea? The saddle has been compensated (as you mentioned) by the luthier at the shop where I bought it (out of town).
Maybe I experiment with shims until I get the height that feels and sounds right, and at that point, not having glued anything on, take it to a local trusted luthier and say, "here, please cut a new saddle intonated similarly but in height the same as it is standing now with the shims..." does that sound like a plan? thanks everybody, what a resource this forum is...

[delaorden9]

My advise: get a new saddle and take it to a reliable pro.

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by DoryDavis

LJ Guitar:

That occurred to me. If I simply put shims in without glue, would that give me an idea? The saddle has been compensated (as you mentioned) by the luthier at the shop where I bought it (out of town).
Maybe I experiment with shims until I get the height that feels and sounds right, and at that point, not having glued anything on, take it to a local trusted luthier and say, "here, please cut a new saddle intonated similarly but in height the same as it is standing now with the shims..." does that sound like a plan? thanks everybody, what a resource this forum is...

Hi Dory...

It may depend on how much it needs to be raised, and of course you can put shims under it and try to estimate height, but then you have to cut shims of different thickness.

By gluing wood to the bottom of the saddle then sanding it to correct height, the shim is secure and easier to sand.

There are no rules - just principles for this kind of experimentation.

I figure when I paid for a setup and it included intonating the guitar, I don't want to pay for that all over again when unnecessary. A glued shim is not really less stable than a fresh bone saddle if the existing saddle fits the slot well.

Keep us in the loop...