#16
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I'm under the impression that not everyone does. But if my ramblings on the topic are simply a case of preaching to the choir, then please disregard and carry on...
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#17
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I have to repair these issues on a regular basis as I am sure a lot of others do as well. A passing comment, to set a neck to the correct angle so it shoots for the top of the bridge when fretted, means you are fitting the neck at an angle not in the same lines as the body, so there will always be an issue when the fretboard extension is clamped down. Always.... Its the nature of the beast. Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#18
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For new builds, it's very simple - If you glue the fretboard down to the guitar/neck assembly, without consideration for getting the angles right and surface under the fretboard to begin with, then you will have to true the fretboard afterwards. Then you are compensating for poor construction, or maybe poor planning, and you end up with a fretboard whose thickness varies, which frankly looks bad to me. With most modern guitars having top domes, this would require a positive neck angle, which if laid out right should give a fretboard whose surface of the top of the frets lines up with the bridge. If the fretboard had to be pulled down then the upper bout at the area under the fretboard extension is not coplanar with the neck because the heel has the improper angle, the upper bout is sunk, or the sides have deformed. |
#19
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In pictures here is how I do it. This is my Dreadnought work board. I build the lower but dead flat but the upper bout rises up to the head block (which means that after assemble the upper bout 'rises' down to the head block). IT amounts to abut 1/16th in or so. Then the UTB is also arched so what results is a neck angle that draws a straight line to the bridge. I'm always looking for ways to do things better but I don't use any pretension rigs to set up the surface of the fretboard and still manage to get the action as low as anyone has ever desired. I really don't see it as guess work, especially on a new guitar. An old one with a messed up neck perhaps and of course a bass or electric with a long neck I can see that too... maybe
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#20
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#21
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No I do not do Spanish heal even on classical or flamenco guitars anymore. I have adopted the bolt on butt joint for all guitars, with the exception of Selmer guitars, because it just really works so well. The classical guitar would actually have a reverse angled neck too, or at least dead flat.
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#22
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#23
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Pretty much the same thing in the end though isn't it?
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#24
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Close... Same idea just executed differently. Though it looks in your case you have an induced arch, where I have more of a slight "cylindrical" shape.
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