#16
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Here's my "starter" mandolin. Bought it about 30 years ago at a small shop on Summer Ave in Memphis. Its the one instrument I have had the longest.
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#17
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All I'd say is ...look for an Eastman.
There are "F" models wichich have the scroll, which balances the mando well, and looks cool but does nothing for the sound. "A" models are much the same but without the scroll. A good start. Archtop mandos (the best option) have "F" holes or round holes. Gibson denote the difference as model 4 (round ho;le) and 5 - f-holes. 4s give a warmer sound, 5s more incisive. Eastman's numeration style is MD (presumably mandolin) and a three figure number. 1st model indicates wood and trim. they start at, I think 4 to 9. 2nd number indicates A model "0" or F style "1". 3rd number - 4 = round hole, and 5 = f hole. All Eastmans are well made - even the base numbered Eastman mandos like : This is a good place to start : https://www.elderly.com/instruments/...97&order=price If in the UK / EU - don't mess about - go to the expert! - http://www.theacousticmusicco.co.uk/...andolins-.html
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#18
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I started with a cheap, laminated NY Pro (I think that's the name) from eBay and shortly thereafter lucked into a used Eastman MD515. Once it was set up it was fantastic and sounds great. I highly recommend looking at the Eastman models. I've also heard good things about the Kentucky KM-150.
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Cheers, Mang1974 2016 Gibson J-45 Standard 2008 Martin SWOMGT Early 2000s Washburn JM300s |
#19
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Contact The Mandolin Store. I followed their advice on either the Eastman 305 or 505. I got the 505 (a Xmas present from my wife). Go with A shape body, for the price range you want to stay in, you'll get more for your money.
For lessons, I am using the Peghead Nation beginner course as taught by Sharon Gilchrist. I did change the strings on my 505 from D'Addario to Thomastik Infeld and while I lost some volume (the TI's are lighter), I think the tone is as good or better. The lighter strings are certainly easier for learning proper fretting technique on the smaller neck. I have been very pleased how the combination of the TI strings on the 505 have resulted in an instrument that seems to stay in tune as well as my best guitars. That was a pleasant surprise given all the chatter about how hard mandolins are to keep in tune. I was like you, wanted to expand my boundaries. I started 10 weeks ago and I'm having a lot of fun with it. Good Luck!
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Doerr Trinity 12 Fret 00 (Lutz/Maple) Edwinson Zephyr 13 Fret 00 (Adi/Coco) Froggy Bottom H-12 (Adi/EIR) Kostal 12 Fret OMC (German Spruce/Koa) Rainsong APSE 12 Fret (Carbon Fiber) Taylor 812ce-N 12 fret (Sitka/EIR Nylon) |
#20
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There is some cool mojo in those old Harmony's! Thanks for sharing it!
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#21
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Plenty of info on mandolincafe.com
Lots of posts for beginners - I bought a Collings and have never regretted it. Some inexpensive mandos are fine, some are just plain difficult to play. You may want to look for one with a wide nut. That helps with transitioning from guitar. Good luck, Davidc |
#22
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Some great advice here.
The biggest thing in the mandolin world is set up. Even the best mandolins, if not properly set up, will not play well (i.e. will be hard to fret and will not intonate properly). If I were just getting started, I would probably get the Kentucky KM150 from FolkMusician.com or The Mandolin Store. 1) It's a good, solid wood mandolin, and 2) those shops will make sure it's set up well. The Big Muddy/Mid Missouri is also a great option, especially if you're not going to play Bluegrass. FWIW, I don't play Bluegrass either, and my mandolin is a Collings MT. I just happen to prefer the sound of a carved-top, F-hole mandolin. Also, someone mentioned using a heavier pick with the mandolin. Though that is a popular choice among (mostly) American players, there are plenty of people in the non-Bluegrass world that enjoy a lighter pick. I personally use a medium gauge guitar pick and play with the rounded shoulder rather than the point. YMMV. Good luck. Last edited by Rex Everything; 03-30-2017 at 10:53 AM. |
#23
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I bought a Gibson F9 at a store going out of business. I got it for about 45% off. It needed the bridge moved, frets dressed, and general set up to get it right. Now it sings.
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rubber Chicken Plastic lobster Jiminy Cricket. |
#24
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Much good advice above but I'll add my .O2.
An almost sure way to learn you hate mandolin is to buy a cheap one with a poor setup. Out of the box they go hand in hand, so please take the advice to at least start at the Kentucky KM 150 level, but the flat top suggestion is worth noting, especially a used Flatiron. RE: the Michael Kelly suggestion, I bought a screaming blowout deal on one recently, and after about 10 hours of setup work, its pretty good, but out of the box, it would have sent a beginner back for another try at banjo. Buying from the Mandolin Store or Folk Musician is a can't go wrong proposition. Buying used off the Mandolin Cafe classifieds is good too, especially if bought from the above stores. If you get addicted, kiss your bank account goodby. And don't under any circumstances try that $7500 F hole hanging behind the counter.
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2007 Martin D 35 Custom 1970 Guild D 35 1965 Epiphone Texan 2011 Santa Cruz D P/W Pono OP 30 D parlor Pono OP12-30 Pono MT uke Goldtone Paul Beard squareneck resophonic Fluke tenor ukulele Boatload of home rolled telecasters "Shut up and play ur guitar" Frank Zappa |
#25
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I'd plan on spending some good money for a nice used mando. You will certainly get your money back when you decide to sell it. I would suggest a Gibson A 50,or a stiver, taggert, or a Pava or a Weber mandolin. All have good sound and are pleasant to play. Good luck. Tom
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#26
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Seagull
I just traded in a Fender Mandolin, It was very difficult to tune. I have played guitar for a while and wanted to try a mandolin. I bought a Seagull S8 EQ on the advice of Colin at Long and Mcquade. It is on order so I wont see it for a few weeks. They seem to have a good reputation.
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#27
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I have a nice handmade mandolin, but haven't spent time learning to play it. Yet. I'm an old dog (not dawg) and am afraid to try and learn some new tricks. Now if it was tuned like the top four on a guitar. lol... I guess then it wouldn't sound like a mandolin.
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#28
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Really, the mandolin tuning is better, more intuitive, more understandable, and easier mechanically and musically than the guitar tuning. I am convinced though, that to understand this and really take advantage of the mandolin, you have to become a mandolinist. You have to put aside the guitar and learn the mandolin as its own unique instrument with its own unique strengths and weaknesses. It isn't a tiny guitar. I spent almost two years principally as a mandolinist, and while I have since sold my mandolins and gone back to guitar, I really can play the mandolin as its on instrument and take advantage of what it offers as its own instrument.
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Bourgeois Aged Tone Vintage D Gibson CS 1958 Les Paul Std. Reissue Mason-Dixon FE 44 Combo Amp |
#29
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I have every confidence you'll get a mandolin to get started,-----that aside, when you start to play make sure you make sure your "muscle memory" learns the "chop chords", those are the painful chords that stretch out 4 frets or so and make the mando world completely wonderful. Check out the big boys, that's what they're using!
Fog Last edited by Kerbie; 06-17-2017 at 04:08 AM. Reason: Removed masked profanity, adjusted accordingly |