No Enpin Hole...what bit to use?

[Treenewt]

So my sweet new Larrivee L-03 has no Endpin hole at all...nada.

I am strongly considering taking it to a luthier, but then again, I'm building a guitar and I'll have to cross this bridge at some point. Would you use a paddle head wood bit in this case? I know normally, to widen one, a spiral cut is recommended, but from scratch, what would you say?

[martingitdave]

Take it to a luthier if you are uncomfortable. You need a tapered reaming bit with a 1/2" max width. Put painters tape around the endpin hole to protect the finish and go SLOW. I've done 4 or 5 of them without incident. However, get a decent tool.

This is a cheap tool that people have used successfully. It would work if you don't intend to do much with with it later.

http://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-2.../dp/B001DZE5FW

[Halcyon/Tinker]

Meh, no biggie.

Drill a 1/8" pilot hole. Punch through with a 1/8" to 1/2" step up bit. That's the way we did it. I'd stay away from a spade bit. A forstner will work, but when we dropped the forstner for the step up bit, it was a revelation...

[Neil K Walk]

Originally Posted by Treenewt

So my sweet new Larrivee L-03 has no Endpin hole at all...nada.

I am strongly considering taking it to a luthier, but then again, I'm building a guitar and I'll have to cross this bridge at some point. Would you use a paddle head wood bit in this case? I know normally, to widen one, a spiral cut is recommended, but from scratch, what would you say?

Now that is just odd. One thing I really liked about my Larrivee was how they put thought into the tail block with regards to how it is built to resist shock and how the factory endpin can be removed to easily accommodate an endpin jack. I guess one skipped a step in that category.

FWIW the tail block on Larrivee guitars is made from birch plywood so it should not split. You need to be careful with the African mahogany on the sides though. You're best off masking off the area with a heavy piece of painter's masking tape and starting by drilling a small pilot hole then switching to a reamer bit as described above to gradually widen the hole in order to avoid chip-out.

[Howard Klepper]

I suggest you ignore all previous advice and install a screw-in strap button.

[bnjp]

I use the step bit someone else suggested (1/8-1/2). Be sure to keep the drill bit square to the end block. If you're not installing a pickup, I agree with the suggestion of the screw on strap button.

[martingitdave]

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

I suggest you ignore all previous advice and install a screw-in strap button.

Oops! I thought he wanted a pickup! Reading comprehension failure on my part. If not for a pickup, then Howard is correct!

[Treenewt]

Originally Posted by martingitdave

Oops! I thought he wanted a pickup! Reading comprehension failure on my part. If not for a pickup, then Howard is correct!

It is for a pickup! Sorry for that! Howard, I'd definitely go screw in if not for the pickup! Thanks guys!

[Howard Klepper]

In that case, pilot hole and step bit. Most endpin jacks will fit a 15/32 hole, but 1/2" is OK. If you want to come closer to the ideal hole than the 1/8-1/2" Irwin step bit, they make a 4mm-12mm that will get there. But depending on what else you do, the inch fraction bit may have more uses.

The single flute and incremental size increase of the step bit make it close to tearout proof. Do not use a spade bit. A Forstner is OK

[Treenewt]

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

In that case, pilot hole and step bit. Most endpin jacks will fit a 15/32 hole, but 1/2" is OK. If you want to come closer to the ideal hole than the 1/8-1/2" Irwin step bit, they make a 4mm-12mm that will get there. But depending on what else you do, the inch fraction bit may have more uses.

The single flute and incremental size increase of the step bit make it close to tearout proof. Do not use a spade bit. A Forstner is OK

Thanks for that Howard. I really appreciate it.

[bnjp]

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

In that case, pilot hole and step bit. Most endpin jacks will fit a 15/32 hole, but 1/2" is OK. If you want to come closer to the ideal hole than the 1/8-1/2" Irwin step bit, they make a 4mm-12mm that will get there. But depending on what else you do, the inch fraction bit may have more uses.

That's a great tip. Some pickup manufacturers say 15/32" and some say 1/2". I've often felt that the 1/2" hole was a little too loose even when it's the one they say to use. I also have the problem VERY often of the inside nut loosening over time, so I bet a 12mm hole would help that as well.

[redir]

IMO a 1/2in is just fine for end pin jacks. You are not depending on the surface friction so if anything it just makes it easier to install and once tightened up it won't matter. The tapered end pin is traditional.

Howard didn't mention his reasoning but it's my guess that he prefers the screw in kind because the tapered pin can act as a 'log splitter' if the guitar is dropped on the pin and split the end block. I've seen it happen but it is rare.

Or perhaps the reasoning is that it's much easier to install the screw in type.

In either case both are good options for a screw in.

[Halcyon/Tinker]

Don't forget to drill a 1/8 pilot hole. Not absolutely essential, but it helps...

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by Halcyon/Tinker

Meh, no biggie.

Drill a 1/8" pilot hole. Punch through with a 1/8" to 1/2" step up bit. That's the way we did it. I'd stay away from a spade bit. A forstner will work, but when we dropped the forstner for the step up bit, it was a revelation...

Yeah, I use a step bit, too. Surprising how nicely it works. Just don't touch it once you're done!!!

[Halcyon/Tinker]

Why, don't you like playing hot potato?