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  #76  
Old 03-11-2018, 03:02 AM
00045 00045 is offline
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All my acoustics, except one, are with HHG. They are the ones that stayed with me. I don't know if the difference is the glue or the more precise workmanship on the glue joints.
I owned a 1933 Gibson and one of the tone bars came loose a few years back. That were the days before the Authentic series and the HHG revival. My luthier re-glued the loose tone bar with Titebond. Didn't notice any loss of clarity or volume drop.
But again, I believe the HHG makes a difference.
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1930 National Style O
1931 National Triolian
1933 Gibson L-1
2007 Martin 000-18 SB Authentic
2013 Gibson 1935 Advanced Jumbo Limited Edition
2013 Gibson 1934 Original Jumbo Limited Edition
2021 Martin D-28 CAA 1937
2022 Martin 000-28 CAA
Many Strat's, Tele's, ES 335's and a Gretsch Duo Jet
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  #77  
Old 03-11-2018, 11:20 AM
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devellis devellis is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles Tauber View Post
Again, that really doesn't happen in any relevant amount and isn't a significant contributor to the need for a neck reset. If it were, the following things would happen that don't:

1. components - top, back, fingerboard, etc. - would no longer be aligned to their mating components. For example, the back or top would stick out past the sides or the fingerboard would "slide" relative to the top.

2. since hide glue does not (cold) creep, then guitars made with hide glue wouldn't need neck resets: they do.



One may occasionally see that, but that isn't what causes the "jelly bean" shape to happen. The entire upper bout rotates, neck, neck block, top, back, sides, linings, 'n' all.



See above. If it was as simple as using hot hide glue (i.e. a glue that doesn't cold creep) to prevent neck resets, everyone would use it.
I defer to your greater expertise.
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  #78  
Old 03-11-2018, 07:40 PM
RustNeverSleeps RustNeverSleeps is offline
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OP, this should explain everything.

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