#1
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Strat intonation help
Long story short... I just got a 2016 Deluxe Roadhouse and I need to intonate it.
Which direction do I turn the saddle screws to move them toward and away from the nut? I'm having a heck of a time just getting them to turn and I don't want to strip the screws. |
#2
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Loosen the string for the time that you are making the adjustment. Then retune and check the result.
__________________
Breedlove, Landola, a couple of electrics, and a guitar-shaped-object |
#3
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I would go on the website for Fender guitars and follow the instructions for intonation . You MUST loosen the string you are adjusting first you move the saddle closer to the neck if the 12th fret note is flat to the harmonic and the opposite if it is sharp . You also need a good tuner that has cent markers ideally. So play the harmonic at the 12th then fret the same string on the 12th and compare the tuning you are adjusting the fretted note not the harmonic
Good luck
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Martin OODB JT Gibson J45 Yamaha LLTA Yamaha SLG200S Yamaha NTX1200R Taylor GSMiniE Rosewood Joe Brown Uke AER Compact 60 Marshall AS50D Now 100% Acoustic and loving it ! No more GAS |
#4
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One more tip - If you are having trouble with the low E and have it as tight as it will go and need to go closer in.
Take out the saddle spring and clip off a section. If you are hesitant to do this use a spring out of a ball point pen to clip to size and save the one that came with the bridge. This usually happens to me when putting heavier strings or flat wounds on my Strat. |
#5
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If I understand your question correctly, you would turn the screw right to lengthen the string length, left to shorten it. IT should be pretty obvious once you start to turn the screw. No real worries if you go the wrong way, jsut correct it.
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#6
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Quote:
Flat = move the saddle forward toward the nut (tighten the screw) Sharp = move the saddle back toward the tail (loosen the screw) Is that correct? In which case, righty tight, lefty loosy applies? |
#7
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these should be your first stop.
https://www.fender.com/articles/tech...intonation-101 https://support.fender.com/hc/en-us/...itar-properly- play music!
__________________
2014 Martin 00015M 2009 Martin 0015M 2008 Martin HD28 2007 Martin 000-18GE 2006 Taylor 712 2006 Fender Parlor GDP100 1978 Fender F65 1968 Gibson B25-12N Various Electrics |
#8
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Quote:
To be clear on the method... Play the harmonic over the 12th fret and then fret the 12th fret and if that fretted note is flat compared to the harmonic then you need to move forward to shorten the string length. When you play the fretted note just be observant and don't press real hard or even too soft. Play it as you normally would. |
#9
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I was able to get the screw to move better this time. I think I got it figured out. Tightening the screw (clockwise) moves the saddle back toward the bridge, but loosening it (counterclockwise) moves the saddle toward the nut. Since I couldn't get it to move initially, I was unsure, so I thought it would be better to ask and go slowly.
Now, I just need to do the actual process...which is going to take me a while given it's my first time. Now, I'm also noticing that the saddle screws to adjust the height seem to be a bit short. I prefer a higher action, and when it was setup, I guess the tech thought I wanted it low... and like an idiot, I didn't explicitly state that! Is it possible to buy saddle height screws that are longer than 10mm (I think those are the standard)? |
#10
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10mm / 3/8" long Bridge Saddle Height Screws should really be plenty. Many find those too long because they protrude from the pieces enough to hurt their hands.
If you cannot get high enough with 10mm screws, you should really check neck relief and neck angle. If you change saddle heights, not to speak about neck adjustment, you should check intonation afterwards.
__________________
Breedlove, Landola, a couple of electrics, and a guitar-shaped-object |
#11
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Quote:
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