Removing binding tape

[Quickstep192]

I'm doing binding for the first time. I did a practice run without glue and when I removed the tape, I noticed that the tape pulled up a little bit of wood in certain places. Is there a good way to avoid that?

I don't want to seal it because I need to dye after the binding is on.

[Halcyon/Tinker]

Take a heat gun and warm up the tape to loosen its adhesive properties. Pay attention to the grain runout, and make sure to pull the tape across the top along the direction of the runout, don't lift the tape up.

[LouieAtienza]

You can wipe the tape with naptha, and it will soften the adhesive and make it easy to peel away. I start from a corner and pull diagonally, keeping the pulled part close to the surface as if it's folding over itself...

[kjaffrey]

A coat of shellac on the top helps to prevent tear out from the tape. I've also found it helps a little to prevent stains and dents. A hairdryer to warm up the tape is also very helpful.

Kent

[Bruce Sexauer]

Use the green tape ((3M #233?), it is stronger than others, has a nice stretch quotient, and the stickum is more forgiving.

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by Quickstep192

I'm doing binding for the first time. I did a practice run without glue and when I removed the tape, I noticed that the tape pulled up a little bit of wood in certain places. Is there a good way to avoid that?

I don't want to seal it because I need to dye after the binding is on.

Agreed with Halcyon/T. Heat is your friend. I use a hair dryer. Also, a few spit coats of shellac before binding helps. (before routing, in fact, is a good idea, so the shellac doesn't permeate the surface to be glued.)

[bnjp]

Yes a hair dryer is better than a heat gun for removing tape and pick guards. A heat gun can burn the top if you get distracted for even a few seconds. Ask me how I know.